I am looking at IsoAcoustics OREA pucks for my DAC and CD transport.
I read a review from Dan Worth (HiFi Pig); which is at least a year old.
He was very impressed with them.
He discovered while using the OREAs; if a particular audio component is too lightweight for the OREAs used under it, it will actually sound terrible.
Dan found that the audio component should weigh at least half of the OREAs’ weight rating, to actually get positive results in sonics.
I was going to try them under my CD transport (15lbs.) and my DAC (11lbs.), I was going to try the OREA Bronze.
The CD transport will be fine with three OREA Bronze.
He DAC can only have two OREAs; which will not work, it’s power cable will flip it backward.
I was actually glad I read Dan’s review.
I need to consider minimum weight for effective component damping/isolation, etc…
I am currently using Orea pucks (bordeaux)underneath my center channel speaker and underneath my arc ref 3 preamp. I was so impressed I purchased Gaia II feet for my ML Summits. I guess my preamps is too light for the bordeaux, but it still sounds better than the still points I had been using. This stuff actually works well and I plan to purchase more of these for my other components as money allows!
@RTDoherty - I use Bronze on: DSD, DMP, BHKPRE, Sbooster plinth, and streamer plinth. I use Bordeaux on the BHK300 pair. I use GIA III under my REL S3s. I use Voodoo pods under my P20 cause of a height restriction. My P20 had 0.25in from top to glass shelf above. I went to a 1.5in longer pole; removed the P20 feet and added the Voodoo pucks (0.25in less height than Bordeaux pucks). This gave my P20 over an inch more space than before no pucks and also sat the P20 on a magnetic field. Note: if doing Voodoo pods, watch how you handle, a lot of balls come flying out if you are careless. My P20 seems to be at last 5F cooler (laser temp measurement); however, only been a day since reconfiguring my rack. My approach was to follow the directions of the manufacturer. I keep the weight of the component right in the middle of the linear portion of the performance curve. I guess that may be a better way of saying 1/2 max since the linear portion is large… yeah - too heavy bad, too light bad… there is a nice performance cure on website. Also, I like using (4) pucks, not (3) pucks. Some have success using just (3) pucks.
PSA specs the DSD, PRE, and once DMP at 22lbs. If you measured them all they are not exact. Then you have to account for removing the feet (minimal on DSD, PRE, and DMP). BHK300 feet are metal w/ rubber, heavy… so, the Bronze middle of shaded area is about 6lbs. So, (4) X 6lbs is 24lbs… right in the sweet spot. BHK300 is 83lbs speced and ~80lbs without feet. So the middle of the shaded area for Bordeaux is 24lbs each. So, (4) X 24lbs = 88lbs, so you are right in the sweet spot. If you go (3) feet you are still in the upper linear area, (3) X 7lbs = 21lbs. I would not go three; however, some do and seem to work well. Since they sell them single, might try (3), then (4) to see the SQ improvement.
I’m thinking of contacting IsoAcoustics; to see what they recommend.
With my DAC; using two Bronze OREAs is not feasible; with the weight of the power cord it won’t work out too well.
@RTDoherty - I designed and fabled a cable restrainer for my Sbooster plinth so that (4) power cables exiting downward (Z plane), don’t create undue Z plane forces. The trick is keep the cable as loose a you can so the retention factors just a tad in the puck’s function.
Another approach is to measure the weight of the cable and place an impact factor cause the whole cable is not in play. So, if the cable weighs 2lbs, throw a 75% impact factor so it has 1.5lbs of downward force…
Nice! That’s a good idea!
@RTDoherty - easy to do. 0.25in steel plate (does not bend and easy to get custom on internet). Bend aluminum (1in X 0.25in) from Home Depot or Ace Hardware in a rounded rectangular C bend. Then tap the steel plate with 1/4 20 tap and screw them together and paint. I used hex head button screws so I could reach the screw easy with Allen. A Phillips screw would be hard to torque cause the C channel will be in the way of keeping the screw driver straight and a short Phillips will not provide the torque I needed and it would be close to the corner (knuckles). I also used lock washers. I affixed it with 4 holes on each side for zipp ties so when I reconfigure rack (20 times to date), I can move. Once I got materials, took an hour and then paint. Trick to bending C aluminum by hand is that each bend use a 2ft level vertically in the vice to make sure aluminum channel is plumb while you are bending by hand or you have lopsided bend, not perfect like you see.
Thanks for the info and the picture!
Seems like an effective way to take some of the power cord weight from the rear of the components.
I was also considering a closer look at Voodoo IsoPods.
Like the OREAs ; I’ve read a LOT of good feedback from owners, etc…
The IsoPods cost quite a bit more though.
I have the Gaia I under my speakers with outstanding results. I also have the OREA Bronze under my Aurender N100H. Be very careful with how you choose the specific and amount of Orea’s you use. I started with 4 Orea Bronzes under my N100H and the sound was dull. I removed one and what a transformation. My N100H weighs 10.14 lbs so I’m thinking about adding some sort of weight to the top to see if I get additional benefits.
Each Orea Bronze should be used from 4 to 8 lbs. So for example if you component weighs 12 lbs better only use 3 Orea Bronzes.
Very highly recommended.
Anyone compared Oreas and ISO-Pucks? My dealer told me that Orea is mostly a cosmetic improvement over iso-pucks. ISO-pucks performance curve is close but not as high as Orea, but has a wider optimal weight range from 4-20 lb.
I have a set of mini pucks coming in next week. Looking to understand the performance curve, not just 6lbs max. The OREAs give you a nice performance curve. I don’t see that for the mini pucks.