LHY SW-6: Snake Oil or A Substantial Upgrade?

I would like to remove the word “collapsed” from my email on clock effect. Today I disconnected the clock cable again. The soundstage is fine, but for sure it does not sound as smooth and relaxing as with the clocks connected. The SW-6 probably did not have enough break in time when I first did it.

The music is more engaging with the clocks connected (50-ohm).

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This is great to know. If I were to add the clock, I would probably go the route of adding LHY-OCK2. Are you connecting the two switches via fiber optic cable? Have you noticed any significant difference between a regular ethernet vs. FO? Many of the media converters I’ve tried really flattened the dynamics. Too plastic-sounding if that makes sense.

Before SW-6, my best connection was FO from SW-10 to Lumin U2, and Omega ethernet cable from SW-10 to Orbi sat.

After SW-6, my best connection is FO between SW6 & SW10 and Omega ethernet cable from SW10 to Lumin U2. This setup sounded better than FO in two places (SW6 to SW10 and SW10 to U2). I placed a Xangsane silver ethernet cable from Sat. to the isolated input of SW6 since Omega was moved to streamer now.

I have not tried all ethernet, but I doubt it will sound better than the current setup. The whole reason I got Lumin U2, and switches with FO input/output was that I do not need any FO converter. I tried that and it killed the sound completely!

I also exchanged the Xangsane ethernet cable from SW6 to Sat. with a SupraCat8 to see if I could hear a difference, and I could not. So, two switches with FO plus the isolated input of SW6 may have eliminated the need for an expensive cable here. That is good news for me.

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I tweaked my streaming setup yesterday (again). The tweak was all on vibration control. I added the Hifi ceramic beads/metal supports under both switches and the maple wood block, and I changed to three metal footers with sorbothane sheet under the body of Lumin U2 (from four under stock feet).

This change alone has improved the midrange focus and bass tightness. The SW-6 and the clock cable improved a bit more from my last evaluation (from unexpected additional break in). The streaming now will more than likely edge out PST already.

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What’s going on with the copper patch on the Orbi?

I am not sure it is doing anything; I had an extra cutout from a power cord tweak (@vmax knows) and rather threw it away I stuck it to the side of Orbi.

Well, there is no SQ change whatsoever. :laughing:

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Not sure where to put this and don’t want to start a new thread. Any low powered switches, RASP Pis, Wiim Pros can be further tweaked with this:

.

I put one in front of my WiiM Pro and what a tweak. Great results for 35 bucks.

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Hello everyone,

I’m searching for an audio switch as well, in order to improve my system. Right now I’m using only a Cisco switch with a Neotech 1008 cable and an ISO CAT7 filter from SoTM.

As I am quite happy with the filter which I just bought, my first choice would be a switch from SoTM as well. Did anyone made a comparison between LHY SW-6 or SW-10 and SOtM sNH-10G/sCLK-EX ?

Many thanks!

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I sold my SoTM “Christmas” Edition Cat7 Isolator once I got the LHY SW-8 switch. SW-8 was not only better, but with SoTM Cat7 in the streaming chain together actually made the sound worse.

I only kept SW-8 for a brief time before I upgraded it to a LHY SW-10. The SW-10 made the system sound much better. I added a LHY SW-6 later so I can use fiber optic link between the two. Together they bring the system to another level.

I have not compared SW-6 to SW-10 directly, but SW-10 gave my system a bigger improvement than adding SW-6 later. However, SW-10 is more than double the cost of SW-6.

I’d suggest to try some comercial swicthes with SPF sockets so you can experiment with fiber, especially if you have long ethernet cable runs in the house to your streaming rig. Then get a iFi power supply that matches the switch’s input voltage. Get them from Amazon or similar places with easy return policies. If you hear an improvement, then maybe it’s time to spend more for audio switches. If not, maybe the $$ is better spend elsewhere.

2 examples:

Avoid POE Switches

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I purchased dchang05’s LHY-SW8 and noticed a subtle improvement. The soundstage opened up slightly was the most notable difference. The difference didn’t jump out at me, I had to listen for it. As I said subtle.

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Beatechnik has increased the prices on LHY SW-10 and SW-6 by a large margin. They must be in high demand.

I agree SW-8 made a smaller difference than their newer switches. But they are still selling SW-8 and did not increase the price.

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published prices may be Singapore dollars, US dollars about 20% less

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You are right, I checked the site from the email. Thanks!

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Gustard just got into the switch game with 2 models that are a little cheaper than LHY. I’m looking forward to the comparisons. Gustard N18 N18pro Network Ethernet Switch HiFi Audio Ethernet Switch SFP+10M/100M/1000M Adaptive Ethernet Interface 10Mhz Clock

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Very interesting that their suite of switches are using fiber-optic link too. I use LHY SW-6 and 10 suites with fiber-optic link, and I have to say the result of SQ from noise isolation is spectacular. LHY SW-10 and SW-6 have a clock link too that I am using to synchronize the two switches.

If you want to know. Yes, without the clock link the sound is not as smooth. Together they are hard to beat unless you spend tons more money, I believe. So, I am not interested in getting another switch to try (hint: very satisfying already :man_dancing:).

Do you have both becuase you need that many ports? or is there another reason?

I have one source, and together the two switches have more than a dozen of empty ports. It’s a long story why I use two LHY switches. In the past I used SW-10 w/ FO connecting to Lumin U2, and it turns out Omega ethernet provided some aspect I like better. With two audiophile switches I can use both FO and Omega in the chain. That’s the short version of it.

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Hi Donald, did you also try the clock link between the SW-10 and the U2? I’m curious how this compares to your current setup. Thanks!

U2 uses USB as main input so the external clock can’t be utilized, and it doesn’t have a clock input either.

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