I’m considering buying a P20. Now I want to make sure that the P20 doesn’t reach its limits with my 4 power amplifiers.
Two of the power amplifiers (for mid/high frequencies) are specified with 400 watts each at 4 ohms (max. 800VA) and are class A/B power amplifiers. The other two are class D amplifiers, which are built into partially active loudspeakers and specified with 700W per channel (1400W peak). Additionally I would like to connect my DAC, music server and router.
Will this work or will I be better off connecting the active speakers to the wall socket?
I have a P20 with 2 Marantz MM7055s, two BHK Monos, one Stellar M700, DS DAC, BHK Pre, Marantz 8802A, powered subwoofers in the two front speakers, projector, and miscellaneous other sources. When I watch movies with all channels driven pretty loud I am only using around 1000-1200 watts and the P20 doesn’t get too warm. I do use a dedicated 20 amp circuit with a 20 amp power cord into the P20.
I would guess that your load would be quite a bit easier than mine so I can’t imagine it would be a problem for the P20 unless of course you have other things on the same circuit and risk tripping the breaker. This isn’t a limitation of the P20 though but something to keep in mind.
Hi Maestro, I’m running DSD, DMP, BHK pre, BHK300 mono blocks, 900w subs, and, Auralic Aries G2, all on P20, without breaking a sweat. I also am using 20amp dedicated circuit.
@Maestro - Running:
Dual BHK300s
DMP, DSD, BHK PRE
Dual 400watt REL sub amps (class D)
(4) Sbooster LPS w/ Ultra filters for Matrix, Nucleus+, AQVOX -SE, and Giga FOIL Ethernet filter… about 140watt total
Measurement configuration: running DMP w/ DSD @ 50 and BHK PRE @ 65… a little higher than normal listening volume. P20 set to multi-wave 5, my normal listening. I love this P20… a beast…
Input to P20 - 10/2 romex single (20A) run into SR BLUE duplex; SR Anaconda (6ga) power cord from duplex to P20. Every component has SR BLUE fuses. P20 is now 2,000VA capable in the % load calculation. If I did not go 20A and stayed at 15A, the load measurement have been 25% higher (1500/2000) around 48%.
Conclusion: at 38% load, I think I have enough head room (meat on the bone).
Love my P20. It replaced two P10’s and completely satisfied with its performance. I run my entire system through it:
Auralic Aries G2, Auralic Vega G2, Aralic Leo GX, DSpeaker X4, PWT, BHK Pre, BHK 300’s, Salk/Rythmik 12SE’s x 2, and hopefully soon an Auralic Sirius G2.
THD in is between 5-7% THD. A picture is worth 1,000 words!
@daeone - that is your input THD? I’d say you are getting your money’s worth. Look at the factor & input THD… HS! I’m thinking 2-4%THD was a lot of distortion. Where do you live? Thank goodness you got the P20… Can you show me numbers on the voltage, just curious… Also, what is your load %, I assume you have 20A circuit. If you have 15A I would think your load would be close to 45%?
Yep. I live in the Seattle metro area and power is distributed with the same efficiency as our pols deal with the homeless epidemic. I am between homes right now so renting and you’re spot on, 15A and running close to 50%.
@daeone - Yeah, I went (2) separate 10/2 20A runs. One for music room and one for great room where big screen and Bose surround sound is located. So, I see why you are not doing the 20A single runs. I have never seen that bad of power. I live in a planned resort community and I thought it was bad when it gets to 3% THD. I visited Seattle once, seemed like a nice place to visit.
Great, many thanks to everyone (@AudioJim@kylemillsap@cardri@daeone) who gave me their experience so quickly.
Since I live in Switzerland, I have only a 10A connection, but with 230 more volts. Think that should work.
Is there perhaps an expert (maybe @Paul) who could confirm this?
I got my new P20 and put it into operation and it’s great! No comparison to the previous solution with isolating transformer and filter. I have also done a software update.
But now I have a little problem. Dimming the display via the remote control is no longer possible. At the very beginning this worked and now suddenly not anymore.
I just don’t know which version I played up. I’ll check as soon as I get home, if that has any effect.
And no, the remote doesn’t execute any commands anymore. Batteries replaced and the red light on the front of the remote also flashes when you press a button.
No, the sensor doesn’t flash when it receives a signal. Shoot me an email at jamesh@psaudio.com and I can send you a new remote to see if this solves it.
Very weird. There’s a pretty wide tolerance for the IR receiver, but have you tried putting the remote right up to the sensor to see if this helps.