I think you’re now on a level, where you need THIS!
Everything fitting into a rack is for pussies 
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My amps aren’t that small. 2200W into two ohms. Still two of them plugged into a single P20 sounds better than each into its own 30A capable outlet (and that still the case when the music is louder than I can stand for more than a moment.) This isn’t the case with any other power conditioner or power regenerator I’ve tried in the past (not that I have a huge list of them.)
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Yes I am definitely sure, especially in this regard a powerplant is much better than a conditioner. Would be interesting to compare the Apex specs with those of your amps, which indeed are best, too.
For those 4 minutes were you able to discern any improvement in sound attributable to the P20?
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I hope nobody is on electrically powered life support on your block when you turn those puppies on!
I now read the Apex delivers 2x1490W into 2 Ohms “only”
Do you have an idea which other spec could cause a P20 shutdown if your amps work with it, having a higher power rating? Or is it because the Apex has such high ratings in pure Class A, so it sucks more in relation to its output?
I’m very sure I don’t hit the limits of my amps - my speakers can only take 450W at 8 ohms (tho they suck up proportionally more at some frequencies where the impedance dips down to near 2 ohms.) Long before I run out of power my concrete floor is vibrating and we’re probably getting permanent hearing damage.
Pure class A amps will definitely draw more current than my class AB amps, but mine still would be class A at the volumes we are talking about. Also my speakers are 92.5dB @ 1m which isn’t bad for dynamic speakers.
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How many watts would you guess you’re normally listening to? 10 watts?
I don’t listen to even 90dB for more than a short period of time. About 80dB for 5 or 10 minutes now and then. So not even 10W. But I do crank it irresponsibly now and then 
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No. It sounds the same with or without the P20.
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Having had several AB amps which as usually play in A for quite some watts and several full Class A amps, I must say the A amps all were much different/better in their way sounding also in the low power modes (10 W or below). I never experienced anything similar from an AB amp, not even at very low dB levels wherev hey should play in A mode.
I can’t confirm from practice that any AB amp sounds anywhere near a hot running full Class A amp, also and partly especially not at very low SPL. No idea why.
That’s interesting…I did expect both other of the 3 alternatives but not this one.
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How does one judge when your A B amp shifts A to B? Perhaps watch current draw on the regenerator?. I know my big monoblocks are best about 12wpc which is about 10 percent of where distortion starts to climb . I always assumed it was room acoustics i hear. I know the amps cool down pushing 50 to 250 watts. It would be nice to nail where they transfer to B class.
Maybe @tedsmith has guidance?
I don’t know it, I just know that I never heard full Class A-like sound from an AB amp, not even at very low levels where they are told to run in A mode. They might sound a bit better there but far from what the others do.
Different manufacturers set the A/B transitions to different levels. My Moon W-10’s are speced to transition at 10W output. (I don’t know if that presumes an 8 Ohm load or not.)
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The class A amplifiers sound better because they are generally built better with larger power supplies. The Gryphon Apex amps have over one farad of capacitance, that may be one of the reasons why the p20 didn’t make any difference.
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Is that something the manufacturer shared in your manual. I have never seen one state it in there specifications. It would be good info to know if your amp had a meter and if it was accurate. I guess I will watch the P-20 consumption on a mono source and see if there is a step change shift then note the amps power meter.
A good article on bias
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