Great item for those cold Minnesota winters. 
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It would run much cooler, use much less electricity, perhaps extend the lifetime of the beast, etc.
Their Green Bias function allows one of their preamps to control the bias based on the pre’s volume setting (and perhaps other parameters of which I am unaware). I understand it is pretty slick.
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On the front panel. One third. Two thirds. Full blast The green cable will connect to the Pandora preamp and then the volume control will set where the bias is set. The idea is to always stay in class A but lower the power requirements if possible. My Wilsons are pretty easy to drive so it will be interesting to see how all this works. I believe it will be a new experience for sure.
I am going to plug it directly into two 20 amp circuits because I have five circuits available. I am going to try it with the P20 just to see what happens.
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Very cool!
Great concept.
I am eager to learn of your real world experiences.
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Like Laura Palmer it was wrapped in plastic when we brought it in. The heavy wooden shipping crate came apart with little effort and went back together with no tools. Pretty weird. It was wrapped in velvet and then sealed in plastic wrap. We put an eight inch wide strap under it’s middle, side to side. The front is acrylic and I didn’t want anything to touch it. Wearing straps we cinched it up to our waists and then stood up. We both had doubts we could do it but it got done.
My wife said when we sell the house the amp goes with it.
I think she’s right.
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Don’t forget to shoot video when you try that. Gryphon will suck 2500 watts and p20 is capable of handling?..flames 
I had some issues when I bought my P20. Long story short I took it out of the box and hooked a hair dryer up to it. On low all was well, when I switched to high the P20 said nope and politely shut down. I have never heard of one going up in flames but who knows. Just because I haven’t heard it doesn’t mean it hasn’t happened.
So you actually did try it with a hair dryer? Now I start to believe you use Sigma´s on your popcorn machine too,must be awesome buttery smooth flavor 
Ok maybe not flames then. Just my humor,but maybe something like too long time cooked popcorn with basic power cord in it,kind of smell? hmph.
Congrats finally getting some of that awesome gear you ordered. Hope they live up to expectations and then some!
My next upgrades? After Iconoclast loom it´s more cables of course… Power cords! Home made…better than anything I´ve heard before. Fun!
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My P20 hung in there when i pushed my MC1000s up to 2KW peaks they are capable of 4 KW peaks. I predict it will do just fine. Music isn’t a continuous tone bursts on both channels.
Wow! Great to hear p20 took that beating without shutting down. I also know the difference between a/b and 150 watt class a amps…they draw full power all the time ,no matter the load. Except that bias thing Gryphon uses,that I don´t know…
Yes that sounds interesting. The newer McIntosh big amps do something similar in that the transistors adjust bias based on temperature. I would be curious what size capacitor banks are. My amps used to Dim lights in the 15 amp service with turn on in rush current. After changing the capacitors and going to a dedicated 20 amp service to P20 makes no difference. I think its huge dual capacitors were not holding charge they had sign of electrolyte leaking. The manual to MC2500 when bridged as monoblocks says they will pull 25 amps each if used for vibration shaker tables but music will only tax them to 12 amps.
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What a beautiful piece of modern artwork. If it kicks your P20 offline then just get another one and plug each half into its own P20. I see the idle draw is 500w and max is 2500w.
I’ll bet it also makes a mean piece of bacon.
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Me thinks the louder the cooler.
Whoa! When I saw the photos my first thought was the defining line in the old song by Free “Heavy Load”
Oh i’m carrying a heavy load
Bet they are going have a “startling” sound. Explosive!
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next upgrade- P10 or P15 for BHK250; Also thought about swapping in 300 monos and getting rid of the BHK pre for an ARC Ref 5 or 6. Maybe Think that is be too many upgrades at once and for ones depleting wallet… Perhaps the conditioner first.
From one Twin Peaks fan to (clearly) another, enjoy your new sounds like agent Cooper likes his coffee…“black as midnight on a moonless night.”
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In your shoes I think “maybe the conditioner first” is a good next move. And as an owner of both the P10 and the P15. . . go for the P15. Both are excellent, I use both oh so very happily, but if you can the P15 will more swiftly put a big smile across your face.
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Well it is deceiving because of the clarity and effortless power but the decibel’s will easily drill past 114 plus so it isn’t something one should practice and if not hearing protected longer than momentarily . A full orchestra can hit such peaks. I also set power limits in my preamp, but the levels of sources in the loudness war music can still surprise one if streaming Roon Radio. What was 10 watts is now 250 or 300. My speakers have separate current limiter thermistors and will cut out Lows , Mids or Highs if overdriven past the 1200 WPC continuous design limits, but is not safe for hearing in my size listening room . 12 watt peaks are more than ample for the sweet spot and having meters makes it easy to set even if source levels vary. But yes sometimes louder is even better sounding to get one in tune with moment. It is good to use a dB meter. I am glad I don’t have horns and when I go to venues using them the ear plugs come out and I avoid the direct beam in a club where it is loud.
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thank you, Lonson. The conditioner does make the most logical sense. I have read folks moving from the 250 to the 300’s and there being a step up, but was not as significant as expected. Besides, I can use a darker backdrop to my music.
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I know of a house built around a Steinway grand (upper level music room) which will of necessity go with the house when sold.
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