Thanks. Over here, as badbeef implied, it’s a hillbilly expression and a person of Scots Irish decent, such as myself, would be considered such. At least that’s the way I got it figgurred. YeeeeHaaaaaw!
Note: As I sit here and drink coffee, preparing to go outside in the rain to fix the damage done to my F350 diesel dual wheel extended bed pickup truck by the faulty wiring in my friend’s heavy duty trailer (which I fixed yesterday evening) so that I could drive to Illinois to get a used bush hog for parts for my old one… yup, Scots Irish I am… Ah, self reflection.
Jeff, I’m going to have to let Galen answer this one. I’ve not fielded that question. We would need a connector that has a jumbo collector for that many conductors on the amp end of the cable. Yikes, scary!
Like most of us on this side of the big pond, I have a bit of a mix. I too have have Scot/Irish but with a blend of Deutschland. Just doesn’t seem right! Hey, at least I don’t talk with me hands.
True bi-wire is hard enough but tri-wire…all amplifier lead positives, and all amplifier lead negative tied to one spade at one end, and separate spades at the speaker far end.
Room wire, this would be hard to do at the amp end. Once the bass current is separated, using bi-wire, most of the current effects are solved as the mid and tweeter use little current compared to woofers. Separating tweeters is more likely to cause more trouble than solve a current based small problem.
For true tri-amp, you would use three sets of leads, one for each amp and to each driver from each amp. No cross-over.
Yeesh! Are they fixed to each other or just placed? I’d never let the kids or cats near them! Very cool looking. If they’re free to move, you must have played around with toe-in-out…
They are not mechanically fixed, but they are very stable, probably weigh close to 300lbs per speaker stack. Some of the modules are pseudo fixed through hookup wiring running through three of the modules. But in the event of an earthquake, we will be running for our lives!
The reason they are not mechanically fixed is because each driver enclosure module is designed to move independently for proper time alignment. The manufacturer has a calculation chart based on your distance from the speakers and distance from your ear to the ground. Having them accurately aligned makes a profound difference on SQ!
Oh, and as far as toe-in, I have not. The manufacturer does not recommend a toe and the alignment charts are based on them facing straight forward.
What real estate do you have behind the amp for spades? You have a shared ground post, so three on that terminal…likely no room, even with spades split between the two hots.
This leaves a spade for one set and two shot-gun banana for the other two leads, plugged in back-to-back. This avoids SHORT situation and allows room.
How are you terminated at the amp end now as far as connectors?
Galen,
Here is a pic of how things are terminated and connected at the amp end.
As far as room being the amp to the wall, I currently have 19" but could pull the amps away from the wall a few more inches to achieve 24" from rear of amp to wall.
See the attached photo. This may not post, so send me your email. We could put ONE set under your binding posts, and two banana verses the three that I show into the amp posts. That would work.
So, basically I will order three separate runs of the Iconoclast? The amp to bass module is really close, but I assume I should keep all 3 runs the same length?
Some thoughts, although I’m supposed to upsell you I have an opposite approach.
The copper in TPC and SPTPC is the same, so on your bass set, consider using TPC. The diffusion coupled low frequency signal, same energy throughout the wire, won’t, leverage the silver in any way, calculation and or listening won’t hear the silver in a bass module. The midrange could be an argument so I’ll not argue TPC there. Definitely on the tweeter and super tweeter go SPTPC.
Unless you have money to donat to a good cause, you might save a buck or two. Consider trying BOTH set ups, all SPTPC and then TPC on the bass module where the silver plate should be no true benefit.
Once you decide on the bass set, return the demo leads and order your set in the copper that gets you there for the best price.
