Yes. Completely different.
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The DWM is really nothing but a slice of the bass panel. The new prototype is about 3’ high / is triangular in shape and that’s about 8 small cones I believe. It’s out there on YouTube etc
I’ve always loved the sound of Maggie dipole speakers, but wished for greater bass impact and punch. Would love to hear a set with the prototype subs.
It will be interesting.
Wow! That system has seen quite a transformation!
The journey continues. In two years I will post a before and after series of pics.
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@RobH If you do decide to go with REL, do a search on these forums for the discussion of custom Iconoclast cables for them. If I recall correctly they were far less expensive than REL’s own cables and an improvement over them in regards to sound quality.
If I were doing something like this, I’d use them in a jumper configuration from your main speakers. If you’re using them for home theater, you can connect LFE via XLR as well.
As @minnesotafats comments, if you truly require additional adjustment beyond the controls on the subs themselves, there are commercial options available. But if he doesn’t have the need for them, I’d be willing to bet they aren’t required for outstanding performance.
Final comment: most of the people who comment on other forums that (fill in subwoofer manufacturer of choice) isn’t good value likely haven’t heard how good that product is or have other priorities than music. If other trusted members here - not me, I haven’t experienced REL in my system - use and recommend them, I’d value that opinion much more highly than an unknown member without direct experience.
Full disclosure: my subs are not “good value”, but they’re fantastic in my system. (Martin Logan Balanced Force 210s.). If I were to be making the purchase decision again, now, I’d seriously be considering the REL subs you mentioned or even the Carbon version.
Edit: Final final comment. I had been waiting on those “Magnepan 30.7s for condos”. They were toured and demo’d in 2019. I finally gave up on the wait and ordered something else. As of a couple months ago, I couldn’t find any mentions of them other than the initial articles.
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For what it is worth, I run CLSIIz panels with two T9x subs. I have gone as for as REL 812s but not needed for this set up. I love JL and had 113s and I imagine if you were doing HT as well that might be a great choice. For 2 channel though, it’s hard to beat REL for speed and sound…
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I think if I saw this post earlier I could of sent you a crazy good deal on pair of S812’s. I have the Martin Logan CLX’s and of all the ML speakers they are the closet to the Magnapan speakers as far as construction. I’ve owned an SVS SB16, a pair of JL Audio F113 V1’s, and now borrowing @minnesotafats Rel No. 25’s. I’m not a big believer in DSP for subs. My JL’s have ARO automatic room optimization and I get better sound tuning them with the volume and crossover. If I had the to rate the subs in order:
- REL No. 25
- JL Audio F113
- SVS SB16
The Rel No. 25’s are a reference subwoofer and until recently they were the best Rel ever made (replaced by No. 32). Super fast and for music I’ve never heard any thing better. The Rel high level connection is the secret sauce IMO it blends the bass so well and it can be easily set up with the internal crossover and volume control. The S/812 and S/510 will be the better value with cost. My local dealer just sold a new display pair for $4500 w/the baseline blue cables. The other optional feature I love about the Rel’s is the line array capability.
The JL Audio F113 super deep, tight bass, fast(not as fast as REL). The bass is not as musical friendly as REL. Is it fast enough for Maggie’s? yes. The Rel’s just do everything better.
The SVS SB16 is the slowest of the 3 but fairly quick for a 16’ woofer. More of a boomy bass than JL and Rel. Bass is also super deep but not as tight as JL and Rel.
All 3 subs are great and I could make do with any of them. The Rel is in another league tho. The 25 is so good that if it was my last audio purchase I could live happily without ever upgrading anything again! I’d like to hear the newest JL F113 V2 It is a completely different subwoofer the only thing retained is the cabinet. The SVS is less than half the cost of the middle priced JL (Rel being the most expensive) so price wise the SVS is the best deal. Depending on budget and my experience with Rel I’d go that route first you wont be disappointed! I don’t have experience with Rythmik or the ML Balance Force tho I’ve heard great things about both!
I wish you luck and if you get to experience anything like I am now you will be a very satisfied audiophile! JL F113’s could be hitting the market soon something I thought I’d never say.
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Two years you will have even a better set of subs! Hard to believe that’s even possible!
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In a sense, I got this when I upgraded from 3.7 to 20.7. My feeling is that these panels wouldn’t “move enough air” to make a difference.
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… which is why I come here for advice!
I appreciate all the input. I’m still undecided.
Thanks, Paul. That’s good input.
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Sometimes, you get what you pay for (in terms of performance).
I have no experience with Rythmik subwoofers. Nevertheless, my bias/sense is they are not in the same performance class as the higher-end SVS models or anything REL or JL Audio offers with comparable driver sizes and amplifier power.
If the Rythmik price points are alluring, I would address that factor by saving up a bit and stretching the budget with “Previously Loved” used models from REL, JL Audio or other manufactures with similar reputations that are appropriately sized for your room.
I am a bang-for-the-buck kind of guy myself, so I hope someone with actual experience with Rythmik and other, more expensive, but well thought of brands chimes in and chastises me for being an uniformed snob. 
Have fun with the sub search.
I had communication problems with Rythmik so they were crossed off the sub list long ago. Of course YMMV.
same here
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Not sure how you would properly integrate your subwoofer without DSP. Analog potentiometers can’t compare with digital filters controlled by a phone app after measurement with REW or equivalent. Not possible by ear in my experience.
I’m tossing back and forth between a pair of REL or SVS. But I do have a very basic hookup question for which I have not found a clear answer. Help?
On the REL, I’d use speaker level inputs. The only issue is the hassle of stacking the bare wire REL cable along with my awkward ribbon speaker cables. It’s difficult to do, but it can and has been done.
If I went with SVS, I’d have to use a line level input, but I’m not sure how this would be done with my Rowland Continuum S2 Integrated amp (there is no separate pre-amp, just to be clear.). The back panel of the S2 looks like this:
Toward the center of the unit, you can see that there is a single RCA unbalanced line out for each channel, along with a single XLR balanced line out for each channel.
On the back of the SVS sub, we have:
(4) shows an RCA input for L and R channels. The black-shaded LFE/R-channel input is dual purpose, I believe.
So, would I simply run a single RCA line from each channel on the S2 to the corresponding input on each sub? As in, one line from the S2 Left Unbalanced Output to the Left Input on the left sub, and similar for the right side?
Or am I missing something important?
Would I expect any grounding issues, hum, ground loops, etc?
It may seem an elementary question, but I sure don’t want to smoke the Rowland if I go with SVS.
Thanks
Haven’t poked at the forum in awhile, and not familiar with the Rowland outputs, but assuming the Rowland outputs are variable (essentially pre-outs), then that would work.
NOTE - I DO know the Rowland is Class D, and speaker/high level inputs on subwoofers have to be connected differently with MOST (not all) Class D amps (you have to float the ground). That’s not an issue with the SVS since there’s no speaker/high level inputs, but just something to watch for if you eventually decide on a new sub but keep the Rowlands. REL has a good explanation:
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I can’t speak for SVS I would contact them direct. They are usually very supportive. This is the perfect example of connection superiority with the REL. You may have hum when the integrated is powered down so you would need to do the same with the subs. When powered up turn the subs on and all your hifi prayers will be answered.
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