I use a pair of PB-1000 Pro subs with my Maggie 1.7i’s.
I was originally prepared to get a pair of the 3000’s, but after realizing that none of the SVS subs use high-level inputs EXCEPT for the 1000 series, that was my deciding factor.
For the past 14 years or so, I’ve been a very strong believer of running high-level signals to the subs. No matter what subs, they simply sound better, sound stronger, seem to extend a bit deeper, and seem to integrate easier and better with the mains. I also utilize both Left & Right inputs on each sub for maximum signal gain to the subs via old Wireworld Oasis 6 bi-wire speaker cables.
I’m glad I went with the PB-1000 Pro subs, rather than other JL’s, REL’s or Rythmik.
Beyond the popular belief that ported subs are slow and sloppy, that couldn’t be farther from the truth with these subs. They’re every bit as fast, tight, articulate and agile as the JL Audio e110 subs they replaced, with the added benefit of the DPS app and digging much much deeper, down to the low teens in-room.
And if you have to ask, they have zero issues keeping up with the Maggies and blend seamlessly.
The REL S/510s are in and hooked up, with no sparks or flames.
If anything, there’s too much output, so I’m going to re-connect with only one wire, while the grounds are tied to the amplifier ground.
Now… somewhere on here someone mentioned to be careful and disconnect the cables before turning off the subs, as they might spike back to the amp on the negative or ground (I’m not sure how it was put, exactly). Would I have those concerns, or is there a prescribed order for shutting down?
Any Rel sub developed in the past 5 years. Just guessing that the past 5 years have been a sweet spot for Rel with their amp, filter, and cone technology…
Derp! Is that what all those little dials are for? Who knew?
I know what the gain knob does. My issue – which I failed to convey clearly – was that I couldn’t raise the gain more than a couple of clicks off zero before the bass became overwhelming.
Perhaps it’s because I haven’t yet had my morning coffee, but I found that comment rather patronizing. Of course I read the manual, as much as I understand what a gain knob does. Funny thing, but the solution to the problem wasn’t in the manual. I uncovered it somewhere else, and then confirmed it with REL directly before proceeding. (Great customer service, BTW.)
The high-level hookup for Class D amps is to combine the red and yellow wire onto the positive speaker binding post, and connect the black wires to chassis ground (also not in the manual). If the gain is too much, just connect one of the red or yellow wires in order to halve the output.
I now have the ability to adjust the gain throughout the full range of the little silver knobby thingy on the back of the sub.
I should mention: The addition of the two REL S/510 subs into my system is outstanding. I finally have the bottom end I’ve been missing for a long time.
If the signal is too high, have you tried only connecting the red to positive and let the yellow float? That should reduce the input by 6dB.
Depending on amp, black to negative, red to positive and let yellow float, alternative for differential amp, red to positive, black to ground post, yellow float.
And that’s what I get for making posts at midnight when I’m already half asleep.
For what I said about the gain knob, I meant to put a little “winky” smiley after that, but failed to.
As for the manual thing, I was a bit serious as I know that a lot of products these days come without manuals and you are forced to download them from the company’s site. You know, saving trees and reducing waste, which I am all for BTW. Not knocking that at all.
Sorry if anything I said last night came off as condescending or patronizing. I certainly didn’t mean it that way. Just the results of a very poor 4 hours of sleep the night before, 14 hours at work, then attempting to stay up way too late and make a meaningful post. Obviously, that didn’t work out as planned.
One last thing… This to me would seem a bit of an issue if REL doesn’t put vital information such as this in their manuals. Sounds like that could result in damage to someone’s new subs or their existing amplifier(s).
I know REL uses a special high level connector and wiring scheme, but with the Polk subs and JL Audio subs I used in the past, I used a couple different Class D amps with them (Wyred4Sound, NuPrime), simply connected with regular speaker cables from the Class D amps to the high level speaker binding posts on the back of the subs with zero issues. With the SVS subs, I’ve only ever used the Emotiva Class A/B amp.
Guess it has something to do with REL’s internal circuitry from that Neutrik connector to the sub’s amp.
Sleep is important, to be sure. In my case, so is coffee.
Things were a bit unclear in the manual. They did mention floating the black wire for some amps, as some Class D amps produce positive voltage at the ground (black) terminal, and connecting the REL’s ground will create a shorting to ground. They then point to using the instructions for Differential (fully balanced) amps, although that didn’t seem to take into account TWO subs.
Since I have no desire to french fry my Rowland integrated, I checked with REL and they directed me to combine the L/R black wires and attach them to the integrated’s GRND terminal. That wasn’t anywhere in the manual!
And the excessive gain issue was solved by using only one of the Red or Yellow wires instead of combining them.
Audio bliss at this time. I can’t believe I’ve gone years without them. And they play nicely with the Maggie 20.7s
Yeah, sleep is important, but I just see it as a waste of time. As I say that, I find that I fell asleep today around 2pm and woke up just after 8pm… Ugg, something I hate even more is sleeping in the middle of the day… And yes, I love my coffee. I have a fresh cup with me right now!
I’m glad you got it all figured out safely without damaging anything.
I’m sure! I love my 1.7i’s. I can only imagine what it’s like to enjoy life with a pair of 20.7’s.
The 1.7’s do a lot of good for the money and 3.7’s and 20’s better it only in the extended top and bottom. Suffice to say investments in better gear or a better room can do as much.
In my case, so is coffee.