I’ll soon be trying a foolishly expensive Stealth Audio cable with my P20. Who knows, maybe my Sigma will be for sale for $1400. lol
Which model Stealth power cord are you getting? Please let us know how it performs when you get it. It is really enlightening following your fun journey.
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I call dibs.
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It will be either a Stealth Dream V18 or a V16. I get confused.
I have many V18’s and a couple of V16’s coming.
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As good as your Shunyata Sigma is, I’ll bet it doesn’t hold a candle to the Stealth power cords. The less the cost constraints, the better the quality of the component, which usually equate to superior sound. On another note, the heavier the component, the better it sounds, at least that’s what they believe in Japan. That’s what I was told. That’s why they put so many steel plates on the bottom of their components. Of course, you’ll have to listen yourself to know for sure. Anyway, looks like you’ll be having quite some time ahead with new sonic discoveries!!
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@waymanchen11 - The electrical for my new house was just finished. I went a #8AWG single run to my 400A main panel that is 30ft from the transformer (box on ground).
I was going to solder the #8AWG wire to the #8 screw (passing it through the #8 screw hole; slightly bigger than the #8AWG wire). Now it looks like I can investigate this plug. Thanks for the information.
Here is the retail costing -
Also - looks like the AC socket is a “prototype” right now. Our house will be finished mid-JUN so I will have to keep an eye on this “dream”. Till I see a manufactured product, will be soldering the #8AWG w/ temp controlled solder station.
Good Read -
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Boy, this plug is something else!! Almost zero loss in impedance!! Make sure you get a big enough box for it. #8 wire is very difficult to move around and bend in a small box. Good luck.
@waymanchen11 - low drama; have already looked at box interior cable maneuverability at the house, no issues. Also, this AC outlet can work with many different outlet box configurations. I also did the same in my office with #8AWG to the 400A panel as a single run. Each cost me less than $400 per run.
Running these cables in the rough-in stage yourself saves a lot on labor cost if you know what you are doing. Putting conduits in walls for low voltage wires is also a good idea when the walls are open. After all is said and done, your electrical system is for real a “Dream” system!!
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@waymanchen11 - Also wanted to make sure I could swap out my Ethernet cable down the road in Office and Music Room. House will be completely sprayed: walls and under-roof decking, creating a controlled attic space where the (2) AC handlers will operate in 75F, not 120F in AZ. The duct work will also carry cool air in a controlled space. I figure I will save $200 a month easy in electric for AC alone. The house next to mine JUL & AUG 2020 (record setting) electric bill with just under roof decking sprayed, no walls sprayed with similar 5,000sqft house and 16ft ceilings in main parts of the house (similar) was $600 for each month. My house in Goodyear (2,000sqft) with 2in X 4in framing and regular batting insulation was $400 a month this year in JUN & JUL. Properly insulating a house saves as much as going solar. The difference is you can add solar down the road where a lack of insulation is forever.
Music Room #8AWG
Also, the music room covered patio - 22ft X 15ft X 12ft I added (4) ceiling AC plugs (each corner) to help w/ electric for shades and external speakers (PA) that are Blue Tooth - using my Pioneer XDP-100R (DAP) to control when I am listening to tunes on patio.
Cycling Room - surround sound 2in tubes to run whatever speaker wire I want. Using iPad to control my cycle trainer and going iPad to Roku mirroring for the 55in flat screen
Electrical -
This is the first house I have built that required a sprinkler system by code.
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It’s so fun to be able to design your own electrical from the ground up when the walls are open. I’ve been an electrician for most of my live, and this is very familiar to me.
I was wondering, since everything is open, why not run another circuit, doesn’t have to be #8 wire, maybe like a #10 wire to the same location as a spare in case you might not want everything on 1 circuit? You never know in the future what you will adding to your system.
$600 is a bit much for electricity, even $400 is too much. Have you considered going solar? It might paid in the long run.
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@waymanchen11 - I’m not a fan of solar and AZ has the worst off the grid rules for solar. Solar cuts the generation cost to zero; however, that is not the full cost of electricity. The electric bill at my last home was $250 in generation cost on the full $400 bill. Going solar is a $30K investment that I may be doing down the road when the green new deal people subsidize that industry and I get great tax breaks. Also, I assume they will be going after AZ nuclear production soon… we have one of the biggest reactors in the world. They tried shutting it down some years back and lost. However, w/ an influx of new residents, we may lose the nuclear.
The $400 electric bill is a few months (JUN/JUL/AUG) in summer. My electric bill in NOV through MAR is $65 a month. Also, we don’t need to heat our house through the year if you insulate properly. The rental I live in now has 2in X 4in construction with standard batting and we have not turned ON the heat and our last house we never did; however, the summer @ 120F, we need AC. So, the cost of electric averages to about $150 a month and we pay zero for oil heat and $20 a month for gas… so, you have to look at the overall cost of AC & heat…
The additional circuit I would have zero use for; however, I have a couple AC outlets on a separate line in that room if needed.
Forgot - the electric bill for neighbor included his 30K gallon pool. I have similar pool in terms of capacity.
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I’ve done a few DIY power cords, but am curious how you were able to connect on the plug side. The internal plug works are not that large on the Furutech I used (Fi-11, and Fi-32). Did you have to make modifications to the entry clamp or other parts of the plug.
Thanks.
Hello,
Yes, the two AC 12 brown cables side by side is to large to enter the female Furutech.
First, combine the 2 cables with 4 inches long heat shrinks 15 inches apart.
Removed the brown outer layers and cut off the fillers with only the conductors brown, blue and green sticking out.
So now the diameters are reduced enough allowing entry into the Furutech. Then I separately bundled, the browns, blues and green and place heat shrinks around each bundle, the heat shrink tubing compresses the bundles tightly allowing entry into the plug.
Finish by first placing a large enough heat shrink around the 2 brown AC 12’s app 5 inches long, make your 3 connections in the plug, move in the large shrink into the plug covering the bundles, apply your heat gun and now slide the Furutech round end cover into place.
AC12 is any easy soft cable to work with which made it easier.
Terry
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