Agree, great video. The only thing that is missing in the video is the copper tape on the USB connector. But that is explained in the written installation manual.
//Stig
Great video. Well done to the PS Audio team involved. I would have liked to see information on the bridge included, but that is a minor point.
I have had a number of people ask me about using the guts of the PWD2. It would seem there could be a market for PS Audio to cater for people wanting to use the PWD2 leftovers by supplying a DAC starter kit that has all the bits (case, screen, ribbon connectors, etc) needed to convert the leftovers into a working DAC. Benefit to PS Audio… Introducing newbies to the brand at a low price point, potential for these people to then upgrade further, more people willing to buy DS upgrades due to a market for used PWD internals.
Just a thought.
A few things:
At the front of the instructions there is a complete list of hardware that comes with the kit, including all the different screws. Make sure you identify them so as not to try and put the metric screws in where the English screws go. If you’re a patient sort, you can identify each screw and the step in the procedure where it gets put in and put them in separate bags or cups with a label for the step number to ensure the correct screw gets put in at the right time.
Also, make sure you don’t torque the screws too tight, as was mentioned. they just have to be snug. You can feel the lockwasher ‘crush’ a bit as you tighten them down. They don’t have to be wrenched on as if it was a part on a battleship–just snug them down.
And be sure and upgrade your Bridge software BEFORE you start this procedure, otherwise the new unit won’t recognize the old Bridge and then there’d be no way to upgrade the Bridge firmware.
Remember: DON"T RUSH, and make sure your ground strap REMAINS CONNECTED during the installation procedure. Yes, a lot of damage can be done if you walk across a carpet and touch the gizzards of the electronics without grounding yourself first. Then it doesn’t work and you blame Paul. Don’t want that to happen, so please really follow those grounding procedures.
–SSW
A couple of things - I thought a grounding strap had to touch an actual ground, not just the ground of a component not plugged in? You learn something every day.
ALso I think the killer chassis for PWD guts would include an option for a class D amp that could be used or not used. The idea of just hooking up some speakers to a PWD rebox and putting the Bridge 1 in there when bridge 2 is released would be great to offer people a stand alone small system, or or don’t use the amp board option if hooking up to a traditional system. Just my thoughts on what would make a compelling purchase. I don’t know why but the thought of the PWDII ending up as landfill is sad, since it really does provide so much enjoyment.
Streets Still Works saidAlso, make sure you don’t torque the screws too tight, as was mentioned. they just have to be snug. You can feel the lockwasher ‘crush’ a bit as you tighten them down.
Excellent reminder. The proper torque spec is the German Gutentite. That is, listen to your hands.
emailists said A couple of things - I thought a grounding strap had to touch an actual ground, not just the ground of a component not plugged in? You learn something every day.The point is that you are supposed to posess the same electrical potential as the component you are touching.
@Elk: Ah, Fraulein Gutentite. A St. Pauli girl no doubt!
My DS DAC upgrade kit is due today!
My kit is on the Truck for delivery today too!! Hopefully it will get here early enough for me to get it installed and have some initial impressions by this evening.
mark
Me, too. I have to go out of town today so I hope hat it comes in the AM. In either case I’ll get to it this evening.
I am off from work and waiting at home for arrival. I guess you could say I am anxious.
A few notes on disassembly.
First, I found some things that Paul did not tell us about:
The adhesive on the back of the felt pad came off nicely on mine. I took my time doing it and maybe that helped. When I removed the transformer, it did not just pull off. There was a little offset at the top of my transformer core that acted like a thread so I had to begin by rotating the toroid until it had loosened enough for me to reach underneath and spin the bolt out. No big deal.
A piece of scotch tape will help to keep the small screws that hold the bridge in place. Just tape them to the bridge faceplate.
Now, I wait for the friendly FedEx guy…
This is my kind of guy. Will gutted his unit and is ready to go. Nicely done!! Have a beer. 
Did’ja look at that first photo carefully?
To early for beer… Scotch?
Will has more faith in FedEx than me. I’m always afraid I won’t hear the doorbell or won’t get to the door in time (some of these guys wait 5 seconds before deciding you’re not home). Anxiously awaiting mine today too.
wglenn said A few notes on disassembly.Very helpful. Little observations and suggestions such as these will help the next in line a great deal.
Just got my kit… It’s missing parts! Grrr… I’m speaking with Alex now to see if I can proceed… If your getting a kit today make sure to inventory the parts before jumping in!
Well, maybe it’s good that my delivery… has been pushed off till Thursday!
I have to find some way to feel positive about this.
You have more free time. 
Looks like the missing parts won’t hold me up… I should be able to reuse some existing except for missing copper tape
My kit just arrived, and it looks like missing some of the screws also. I think everything else is there. I will let you know when I finish the install.
Mark