IsoTek V5 SYNCRO UNI 16 and DC

Day three with the IsoTek V5 SYNCRO UNI 16. On the first day, I already liked what I heard; I had the impression that the high-frequency range sounded a bit brighter. Now, on the third day, this impression has given way to a very spatial sound with very good clarity, localization, and a tangible soundstage. The dynamics aren’t limited in any area; it’s more like even small dynamic jumps now have more ease. I can delve deeper into a recording and experience some details that I was less aware of before. So much for the all-around positive sonic advantages of the IsoTek V5 UNI 16. In addition to the sonic improvement, I no longer experience any intermittent hum from the amplifiers. The transformers of the mono power amplifiers operate more quietly than without the DC filter. Even when I flip on a light switch, there’s no crackling noise from the speakers. There’s complete silence. Now it seems to make no difference whether other devices in the household are causing interference in the power grid. Whether the neighbor is charging their electric car or the photovoltaic system is running: the V5 SYNCRO UNI 16 also protects the system from voltage spikes. I am very satisfied and can highly recommend the IsoTek V5 SYNCRO UNI 16. I prefer it to any Furutech or Schnerzinger wall socket. The advantages are clear.


The IsoTek V5 Uni 16 is universally usable. Mounting brackets for wall mounting are included. The scope of delivery includes wall plugs and screws, which, in my opinion, are a bit too small. I got screws with a larger head and added some dampening plastic washers. A few simple adhesive rubber buffers are included. There are also four threaded holes on the bottom for mounting various device feet. Someone has clearly been thoughtful here. Well, except for the included screws, which are a bit too small. :wink:

I think it doesn’t matter what time of day it is now; the system runs smoothly. My Grid Protector, the Furutech Vault power strip, and the high-quality power cables do their job. Not to mention the Ansuz Sortz and the additional grounding boxes. :joy: I’ve probably arrived. :wink: New speakers? :thinking::rofl:

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Is this the first time you’re using a DC blocker? I do have experience with a DIY blocker but it didn’t bring any improvement. It did produce a different sound. At first, it seemed cleaner but soon I noticed it lacked emotion.
The DC blocker inside Puritan works better on the sources but not on my amplifiers.
Alpha Audio is praising the older Syncro 3.

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This is my first time using a DC blocker. Before the Furutech Vault power strip, which I also bought because of the Schnerzinger Grid Protector, I had a PS Audio PerfectWave P10. Before that, I had a simpler power strip. With the P10, which apparently didn’t filter DC voltage, I occasionally heard a slight hum from the amplifiers. When using the Furutech power strip with GP, I only noticed the hum a little later. The transformers of the mono power amplifiers occasionally hummed so loudly for minutes that I could hear it at the listening position. I looked around for alternatives and finally settled on the new, large IsoTek V5 SYNCRO UNI 16. I had pre-ordered it from my dealer, as it wasn’t delivered until March of this year. I’m satisfied because I haven’t noticed any major drawbacks so far. The advantages definitely outweigh any disadvantages, if there are any. The new Syncro 16 delivers up to 32 amps and has 260% more capacity than its predecessor. I think it’s another improvement over its predecessor. The 16-amp version features a C19 ICE input and a thermal fuse instead of a fuse. I think the Uni 16 is worth the extra cost over the 10-amp model. It also eliminates the temptation to buy an expensive fuse that can blow. I also think a Power Zone would benefit from this.
Since our power grid is more prone to interference than ever these days, a Schnerzinger Grid Protector filters out RF interference, which my Furutech Vault already does. When considering which power supply to use, I also had a Progressive Audio Power Regenerator in mind. I listened to it several times at dealers. I liked the sound, dynamics, soundstage, and blackness. I just kept noticing that, although the sound was very detailed, I noticed a certain harshness in the high frequencies during every demo. I had also noticed this certain sound characteristic with the IsoTek during the first two days. Perhaps it needed some time, or perhaps it was the Furutech FI-32 ICE connector? This slight harshness at the beginning is no longer noticeable on the third day.

I’m occasionally idea tempted to improve something. But the warranty has stopped me so far. :rofl: I’d like to know if the IsoTek could benefit from Furutech NCF inputs and outputs? I’ve also held off on opening the IsoTek to see what it looks like inside and whether there’s a possibility of installing some high-quality bypass capacitors. :joy: Some Duelund capacitors, perhaps. :rofl:

Either way, the IsoTek V5 SYNCRO UNI 16 is a must-have for any serious hi-fi system.

I use the older version the V3 Syncro Uni model before my P20 and I’m happy with the performance.
I didn’t know there was a new V5 version out.
I’ve contacted Isotek to see what the differences are between the two models.
I’ll be interested in their response.
As far I can see the price seems to have remained the same.

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I’m glad to hear that an IsoTek DC filter has had a positive effect on you, too. On your website describing the V5 uni 16, you mention that the new DC filter has 260% more capacitance and is said to have lower impedance. I consider the price reasonable. Compared to the Schnerzinger Grid Protector, the IsoTek V5 SYNCRO UNI 16 offers me more benefits at a much better price-performance ratio.

Isotek supplied the following, which I presume is for retailers,detailing the differences between the V3 and V5 models :-
The following might not be very clear as it presented to me in tabular form, which I can’t re-create here.

FAQ - EVO3 to V5 Syncro Uni
Key points & unique selling points
• Fully redesigned chassis, case work and circuit design
• Uniformity between all V5 products for product stacking or rack placement
• Improved Direct Current Resistance (DCR) throughout the new design
• Thermomagnetic Fusing (V5 Syncro Uni 16), a 1000 times better than a conventional fuse
EVO3 Syncro Uni
(10A and 16A)
V5 Syncro Uni 10 V5 Syncro Uni 16
Amperage on the outlet 10A or 16A 10A 16A
Internal Amperage 16A 16A 32A
Current Capability 60% more vs. EVO3 260% more vs. EVO3
Fuse Glass Fuse Glass Fuse Thermomagnetic Fuse
Internal PCB Complete Redesign vs.
EVO3
Complete Redesign vs.
EVO3
The above key points cover basic differences between the EVO3 Syncro Uni (10A and 16A) and the
new V5 Models. However, it is always recommended to fully test and listen. You will be more
than impressed

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Thanks for sharing. I think the V5 uni 16 is the better choice because it also has a thermal fuse. Farad also found with his LPS that a thermal fuse is superior to any fuse, no matter how expensive. The higher performance also speaks in favor of the 16-amp version.

I take it the thermo fuse part is internal to the Uni 16?
I’m querying with Isotek that all I would need to do to use the V16 version is to change the IEC connector on my existing V3 Syncro power cord from a C15, (standard 13 amp connector), to a C19, (standard 16 amp connector)?

The 16 A version has a C19 connector. The fuse is located right next to it.

So yes, it’s an internal fuse within the unit.
The UK, where I’m based, all the UK mains plugs have a 13 amp fuse fitted.

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I’ve placed an order for the Uni 16 with a UK dealer.
He won’t have them until next Thursday so I should have one within a couple of weeks.
I confirmed with the dealer that I will have to change the IEC connector on my current V3 Syncro power cord to a C19 version.
Now to look for a good quality C19 connector.

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I have a lot of Furutech plugs. For the V5, I opted for an FI-32 rhodium IEC. There are also the FI-52 and the FI-52 NCF. At this point, I thought an FI-32 would be sufficient. The FI-32 will be made of a similar material to the V5’s input. The FI-52 versions, especially the NCF ones, sound a bit better on power cables. Since I’m using a V1 project from the V5 to connect to the Vault power strip, I figured I wouldn’t have too much of a loss. I would definitely use a rhodium plug, as the V5’s IEC input also appears to be rhodium-plated.
I’m curious to see how the V5 compares to your previous V3.

My V3 power cord uses Furutech NCF connectors at both ends.
The C19 NCF connector is nearly as expensive as the Isotek unit, which is crazy?
I’ll have to buy a lesser one and look out for a pre-owned one as I’m a big fan of the NCF connectors.

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I’m also a fan of the Furutech NCF. I use them on most of my cables. I just decided against it at the time of purchase. Maybe I should replace the FI-32 with an FI-52 NCF.:thinking:

It certainly can’t do any harm.
And as this is at the front end of your system you are quite possibly limiting the overall system performance?
More to come?

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I thought the plug wasn’t that important, and I had to stop somewhere. Otherwise, I could run a better power cable. The main fuse is already an audiophile fuse. What’s next? The cable to the street… :joy:

You’re already getting great results.
Better plugs and power cords can always be added later

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I’ve been checking the internet for more information / reviews of the Uni 16, there’s not much out there as the product is pretty new.
Yours might be the first review of the unit?

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I can hear the amplifier from my listening position (call it mechanical hum or buzz from the transformer).

My amplifiers are known to have this shortcoming.

The IsoTek V5 SYNCRO UNI 16 only came onto the market in the first quarter of this year. The compromise of the FI-32 ICE connector didn’t give me any peace of mind after being told about better connectors. So today I went out and bought and installed a Furutech FI-52 NCF C19. The connector is still new and still needs a few hours of break-in time. They say it takes about 200 hours to break in. The FI-32 appears to have phosphor bronze contacts. However, you occasionally read that it has copper contacts. I don’t care whether that’s true, since I now have the FI-52 NCF with pure, directly rhodium-plated contacts and the better housing for resonance and interference suppression. Does it sound better now? After the first few songs, I’d say yes. The slightly harsh treble tone I heard at first was probably due to the cheaper FI-32. The sound now seems smoother and more emotional, with denser tones. The FI-32 seems to have a certain harshness in the highs and a somewhat lean, cooler playing style. The FI-52 NCF sounds fuller and more balanced.