Kit Installers: How to Get the Analog Board to Fit without excessive force

Audio Components DACs
21
woot said Thanks Ted!
Now I just have to figure out how to edit my topic summary for the typo there. . . .

Rats. I was in too much of a hurry . . .

–SSW

22
Streets Still Works said

Now I just have to figure out how to edit my topic summary for the typo there. . . .

I think you have permissions to edit it. If you hover your mouse in the upper left of a post (above the poster's name and to the left of the date) do you get a forum toolset icon? Does it have an "Edit Topic Title" menu entry? If so that will let you edit both the title and the summary. If you don't have permissions an admin can do it for you.
23
Ted Smith said
Streets Still Works said Now I just have to figure out how to edit my topic summary for the typo there. . . .

I think you have permissions to edit it. If you hover your mouse in the upper left of a post (above the poster’s name and to the left of the date) do you get a forum toolset icon? Does it have an “Edit Topic Title” menu entry? If so that will let you edit both the title and the summary. If you don’t have permissions an admin can do it for you.


OK, found it and fixed it. Didn’t know what the little beastie was until now.

Thanks.

–SSW

24

Thanks Ted. I had looked for that function and failed to find it. I guess 5-10 seconds wasn’t a sufficient commitment to finding it.

25
stevem2 said Thanks Ted. I had looked for that function and failed to find it. I guess 5-10 seconds wasn't a sufficient commitment to finding it.
I hate hunting-for-easter-egg style UIs. It drives me nuts having crap popup and disappear as I move my mouse, but I guess that just shows my age :)
26

Installed my kit and ran into the “holes don’t line up issue.” I performed the steps laid out above, and worked the two back screws in first, but the others were still a bit off.

What I did after removing the back plate screws was:

  1. Removed the two back screws so no screws were in the analog board

  2. I worked the board so that I could start the hex-spacer closest to the rear panel. By working I mean applying a little pressure from the back of the board while slightly lifting until the threads would start. I only screwed this in halfway.

  3. I then worked the board so I could start the hex-spacer closest to the power supply module. I only screwed this halfway

  4. Then I got the last hex-spacer started.

  5. I then moved from spacer to spacer a bit at a time with my pliers until the board was seated completely.

  6. I then backed each of the hex-screws off about 1/2 a turn each and placed the two back screws. These I tightened in place and the re-tightened all the hex-screws so they were just snug.

  7. Replaced the back plate screws.

T

27
Ted Smith said
stevem2 said Thanks Ted. I had looked for that function and failed to find it. I guess 5-10 seconds wasn't a sufficient commitment to finding it.

I hate hunting-for-easter-egg style UIs. It drives me nuts having crap popup and disappear as I move my mouse, but I guess that just shows my age :)


I suppose it’s intended to unclutter the interface but the cost is not being able to find things quickly if you don’t know where to look.

28
tpauline said Installed my kit and ran into the "holes don't line up issue." I performed the steps laid out above, and worked the two back screws in first, but the others were still a bit off.

What I did after removing the back plate screws was:

  1. Removed the two back screws so no screws were in the analog board

  2. I worked the board so that I could start the hex-spacer closest to the rear panel. By working I mean applying a little pressure from the back of the board while slightly lifting until the threads would start. I only screwed this in halfway.

  3. I then worked the board so I could start the hex-spacer closest to the power supply module. I only screwed this halfway

  4. Then I got the last hex-spacer started.

  5. I then moved from spacer to spacer a bit at a time with my pliers until the board was seated completely.

  6. I then backed each of the hex-screws off about 1/2 a turn each and placed the two back screws. These I tightened in place and the re-tightened all the hex-screws so they were just snug.

  7. Replaced the back plate screws.

T


Wow, sounds like yours was even further off than mine. In my case I was able to push the analog board towards the rear plate just enough to get the screws started. The board stayed on top of the spacers on the bottom chassis at all times. In other words, push the board parallel to the plane of the printed wiring board towards the rear. It takes a little oomph, but the board is stronger in that direction than in bending.

Did your rear panel have enough ‘give’ to allow this to happen?

But at least you got it in. Good job.

–SSW

29

Mine we’re quite a bit off. It’s important I make clear that during the install the board never bent at all. These boards are sturdy and, as you say, you can put a little oomph into pushing the board from the rear into the back panel to get the screws started.

One of the things for me in starting with the hex-spacers is that they are easier to work with in one hand while you work the board a bit with the other.

In the end everything went together and the DAC sounds amazing!

T