P12 p15 p20? Or no one at all?

Hi, writing from Italy.
I am evaluating one of your power plants but I don’t know which (if there is one) is the right for my setup.
Your data sheets talk about VA instead of WATT and I don’t understand real capacity…

My setup:

Amplifiers:

N 2 ADA PTM-5150 : 1200W peak

STARKE SOUND A2 : 2100W peak

STARKE SOUND A7-3 : 1400W peak

Klipsch KA-1000-THX : 1500W peak

JL Audio F112 : 625W peak

Sources and other:

htpc

Oppo

Apple tv

Sky q

Radiance pro

trinnov altitude

Tv Samsung q9f9

JVC Z1

Could you help me?

Welcome lucmarone! Based off the gear you’ve listed here, I’d say you evaluate the P15 or 20. The amplifiers alone are enough to over power the P12. To really give the multi-channel amps what they want, I’d go as far to say the P20 is likely going to be the best fit.

Thank you so much Jamesh.
Just to understand better…
Do you think P 20 is enough for
My sources and all amplifiers (wow!)
Or I should choose only some of them
To stay under p20 capacity?

In other words,
How many watts of direct current p20 can supply?

Apologize but I am not an expert and these are very expansive devices…

Great question. The P20 can handle a continuous load of 1800 watts no problem. For short bursts, it can handle more. With the gear you’ve listed, the P20 will be plenty. Listing all of the Peak specs for the amps can be a little scary and in reality, the amps never pull that much current.

Thank you Jamesh
Interesting…
So you say I could use a p20 for all my sources and amps
Given that if in some scenes I got a peak it could handle more than 1800 ( my highest peak is 2100) and I wouldn’t risk to compromise dynamic… is that correct?
I actually see that European version of p20 has 2 high current outlets… does it mean only 2 amplifiers could be connected?

Up to you Jamesh how should I make a rough calculation of my amps while working to understand which way would be the best?
I mean connect only 2 amplifiers fo LCR or 4 amplifiers letting subs out…

Yes, the P20 will be plenty for the amps and source gear. It’s really hard to actually pull the peak rated power of amps. Your ears and speakers will go much before the P20 does. I would be cautious about the TV though. They can be a pretty tough load depending on the type of display. No, you can still plug the amps into the other zones.

Jamesh you are very kind.
Thank you once again.
Just to be sure, when you write
“P20 will be plenty for amps and gear…
plenty for you mean enough?
Ah my poor english…

Someone please correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe that the “HC” outlets are no different than the others except and only when components are plugged in and their power switches are in the on position. Only then, if the regnerator is switched off and then powered back up, those “HC” outlets have a limit function which momentarily limits current inrush to those components. (Whew, there must have been a more elegant way to say that)

Ha, I know it really should be easier to explain. But yes, you’re exactly right.

Yes, one P20 will be enough. All of the source gear hardly pulls any current, and your amps will never actually pull the peak power that they are rated at.

That sounds great!

Is there some setting that can protect in case of rainstorms?
Or the only way is to disconnect power by pulling the plug out?

There is fantastic surge protection in all of our PowerPlants. Also, no need to turn it on, it’s an automatic feature. :smile: It is nearly impossible to protect against a direct hit to the house. The Powerplants will protect against a standard power surge, brown out, and over or under voltage.

Hi Jamesh,
Thinking and thinking again…

Given that power cosumption of my amps per channel at 8 ohm is:

  • ada ptm 5150 (n 2 units):
    150 watt per 5 channels each

  • starke A7 (only 3 channels): 
    240 watt

  • starke A2:
    320 watt per each of two channels

(Ada and starke A2 work in class A up to 50 watt) and not to mention subs…

Up to you, reasonably, How much electricity they can use during a movie at high volume?
Just an average to understand How amps work in general…
Forgive me if I ask you once again…

Huh,to make it simple, if you can afford P20 buy it. It´s the best sounding and strongest of the product line.

This is to make it silly, not simple
I am just trying to understand, not being an expert in this stuff,
If a p20 can stand all my devices working,
JUST because I want to buy it, and a trial is hard to get here…

You were already answered that P20 will be enough for your gear. I am also thinking adding P20 to my setup,but right now wondering if prices will change due Ps Audio´s future plans to sell direct only. And whether i´ll get pair of BHK300´s or P20 and BHK 250…
At the moment I can´t max them all. Home auditioning not possible here either.

Yes I had been answerd but that further question was a way to understand better why a p20 could be enough… in other words how should I compute watts (I mean the real watts that have an impact on the 1800 limit of p20…) because devices can change and Perhaps you don’t know my devices and I can’t ask everytime to an expert to go to check all this staff…

lucmarone,

If it’s any help, I have a P20 running off of a dedicated 20 Amp line, with a 20 Amp power cord from the line to the P20.

All of my audio gear and the TV are plugged into the P20:

350 W TV
Two 1800 W GoldenEar Triton Reference speaker subwoofer amps
Two Bel Canto Ref 600 M monoblock amplifiers, 600 W each into 4 ohms
An Oppo 105 I use for a digital file server
A DSPeaker Anti-Mode X4 DAC/Preamp

The Oppo and the X4 are relatively small loads.

If you add up the big power consumers, you get over 5000 W rated maximum.

I have tested the system with TV by playing really LOUD organ music with a strong bass pedal (the floor was shaking, really!), and the most I’ve seen on the P20 power meter was around 500 W. So the P20’s 2000 W capability is well beyond what I’m actually using in practice. I can’t imagine ever getting near the P20 limit; I think my house would fall down.

Charlie

1 Like

Thank you Charlie,
this can help :wink:

Ooops,
Actually values I told to be peaks of my amplifiers are
Not peaks but continuous power consumption at max volume levels
For example Starke sound A2 2100 watt is not the peak…
That can change the games?