Thanks for the post. If you’re going to run a conditioner in the system, we usually recommend running it between the PowerPlant and the wall. This way you can still take advantage of the P15’s low output impedance. The other situation where it is a bad idea to run conditioner into a PowerPlant is if you’re pulling too much current from it.
Very cool that it seems to have eliminated some of the hash in your system!
Ah, yes. Thanks @jamesh. I did see that recommendation from a different thread, but forgot in the rush the get the P15 in place. I guess I’ll just run it straight from the wall and to my gear to see what it can do.
Hi what do you mean by “prefer the P20’s to replacing 250# batteries.”
And are you using the 9PX 1000i version?
Does the 9px use the battery all the time? like 230v AC in are used to recharge the battery and a pure sine converter are converting the DC voltage to 230V
I discovered the same effect: with my all tube turntable system, I had a bit of line noise on Sinewave, but Multiwave 6 eliminated it.
I know why I have line noise - my phono cable is too close to the amp and preamp power cords. The cords are very high quality, but they still need to be further apart. I cannot fix it, for now, but I’ve found that MW6 eliminates it! Listening to both SW and MW now on vinyl to see if there are audible differences…
Hello I just wanted to ask if you’ve had any further trouble with your C1100. I have a C1100, dCS dac, and McIntosh Mc2301 tube monoblocks. dCS has a regenerator warning. I just got a Niagara 5000 but it’s a bit too boomy for my condo when paired with Hurricane cables, and the mids and highs are getting lost. So that leads me to passive Shunyata Denali / Everest or the P15/P20. Your experience has me a bit concerned, so I’m trying to get a sense of the blown fuse being coincidence / bad luck, a low probability previously unknown QC issue, or a known issue that psaudio did not correct.
As an aside my newish condo building has closer to 107/109V instead of 120 spread across three things(?) which supposedly is more reliable, but may hurt peak voltage expectations. I can’t remember what the electrician told me 2 years ago.
Hi Chuck,
PS Audio could never get the P20s to run right in my system (even after several replacements) and were returned to the dealer for a full refund. As such, I cannot comment on whether my C1100 would have encountered further issues beyond the blown fuse.
For what it’s worth @2chan4ever encountered problems with his P20s that allegedly ruined his $8k TV that was hooked up to it. You can read about his experience in this thread: Eaton 9PX VS. P20 - #22 by 2chan4ever
To put it nicely, he was a unique individual and lost favor in this community. I will leave it up to you whether you want to take his experience at face value.
Unfortunately I had a very poor outing with PS Audio power products and would not recommend them to anyone. There are other folks who really enjoy them in their system and haven’t had issues.
I apologize I couldn’t give you more clarity and would not advise running the dCS with regenerated power if they recommend against it.
Good luck,
Tony
Hey Chuck…
I have gone from P5 to P12 to P15 regenerators a very enjoyable
journey along the way each step getting better from P5 to P12 to P15.
Currently my P15 supplies a Parasound JC5 with Class A/AB
first 12 watts Class A then on to 400 watts in Class AB/ channel…The
JC5 has a hefty huge power supply. My P15 breaks no sweat
powering it along with my sources.
While understandably some owners have experienced some
issues…these are a small fraction of the P15s and P20s in
service…There are far more satisfied longtime users and
owners …this alone says a lot…
Fortunately PS Audio offers a 30 day free in home trial…
you could give one a try and see how it goes…if not you
return it and get your money back.
I have been very happy with my regenerators and my P15
is a gem…not giving mine up…
Best wishes in your journey Chuck
Yes, the P15 is great!
I 
my P15
Count me in my P15 is a gem I can’t have my system without it.
The Blue fuse blew in my P20 today. It might have been me.
So while I wait for another, all is plugged into the wall. Yeesh, how everything is so flat without it!
It’s as if all my stuff is indignant, being plugged straight into 20 amp outlets.
Hope you get the fuse quick. I have not used my system sans power plant for a year. Even if I wanted, I wouldn’t dare to.
Go for the Audio Magic ultimate premier and as for frequent flyer price. Audio Magic Ultimate Premier Fuse
I bought a 7 amp to avoid blwing issues.
@RonP, well I just received my P15, and after a 60minute static burn in I hooked up my amp, preamp, dac and cd player. All I can say is two things, why did I wait and should have purchased more than one.
The improvement is not subtle. Having come from a pair of P300s I expected an improvement, but not to this degree. Considered a P20, but it is just too big and heavy.
Congratulations. With time, you’ll love it even more!
Yeah, back is worth more than one’s ears! 
Yes, the top end needs to settle down.
Easy on the back weed…with my lower back challenges, had to figure out how
to shclip n schlide the box …un pack …wrastle that beast up on to a “plinth” then
schlip n schlide to it’s resting place…
Super worthwhile though…glad you chose to get your P15…and there is
a burn in time…though it is flat out good fresh out of the box…
Congratulations
Yes! Thanks for letting us know. It’s always gratifying when someone does finally take the plunge and they realize how much they’ve been missing all along.
I purchased a P10 and after my recent power cable upgrade I realized I’m missing a lot to the point where my next step up might be a P15 or P20 if my budget allows!
By all means Paul, if you can swing it, go for a P20. The equipment you have deserves it. I went from a P12 to a P20 and the difference was pretty massive.
The quietness and sense of ease is unparalleled. And throw in a Audio Magic Beeswax Ultimate Premier fuse as icing on the cake. Beats the heck of the SR Orange fuse I had in there before.