I’m hoping for some technical insight rather than troubleshooting or criticism. I’m trying to understand an interaction I observed with my DirectStream PowerPlant P20. [I admit I asked AI to help me draft this post - English being my second language]
What happened
On two separate occasions, the P20 behaved very differently from what I would normally expect:
After connecting my new system, I noticed the P20’s heatsinks were extremely hot (far hotter than I’ve ever seen under normal use).
It blew the fuse of my Aurender NH10 network hub upon switch-on
Shortly thereafter, the P20 shut itself down into protection
I assumed bad cables, which I replaced. Also, before continuing to use the P20, I’ve tested it on a Meaco dehumidifier for at least 24 hours - it performed perfectly, drawing about 300 watts.
The second time the P20 shut down before becoming more than mildly warm, after about 30 minutes. Same equipment, NH10’s fuse again blew.
In both cases, % draw was below 30%
The components connected at the time: Aurender AP20 integrated amplifier / DAC / Preamp / streamer and the Aurender NH10 network switch
After reset, the unit tests normally again. I’ve reset the P20, and it is again now working flawlessly with my Meaco dehumidifier connected.
So I am not assuming a faulty P20.
What I’m trying to understand: My question is about load characteristics, not raw power capacity.
From reading here, it seems that:
“Load %” tracks current more than watts.
Certain loads may present awkward current waveforms (charging behaviour / power‑factor effects), even when real power is modest.
So my genuine question is:
Is it possible for certain complex audio components (for example multi‑rail, toroidal‑based designs) to cause a regenerator to run unusually hot or enter protection, even though total power draw is well within spec?
If this is simply a known interaction between regeneration and certain load types, that’s a perfectly acceptable answer — I’d just like to understand the mechanism.
Thanks in advance to anyone willing to shed light on this. This is asked in the spirit of understanding, not complaint.
I have had that problem too. It seems for my set up to be some interaction with the M1200 amps plugged into the high current section using the 20 amp power cord. Seems like some oscillation occurs and the improvement needle goes all the way to the.e left and if unnoticed the fuse or protection breaker activates. It always was the 15 amp breaker that tripped. My solution was to plug the amps into the wall.
Thank you Babs. On my side, I had the P20 fed from a Victron Quattro inverter, which I always assumed was kind of a dirty power supply. But here in SA I’d feel naked without it; cables are often stolen (e.g.) then power is interrupted and/or when it comes back it’s with a surge. So the P20 was meant to do some cleanup after the Victron.
I’ve made my peace that I’ll probably have to part with the P20 and am getting a passive device. However, would like to know more about what is/was happening.
Me too. Would like to know this strange behavior. I currently use it only for my Stellar Gold preamp. Working well with that particular kit. Hopefully we aren’t the only ones with this problem.
Hoping PSA will be able to clarify. Of course, I could email technical directly, but my subjective feeling is that this matter deserves public closure.
Here’s my problem: I’ve made my peace having to part with the P20. And yes, since I’ve tested it on a Meaco dehumidifier I feel reasonably sure it’s fine. However, speaking for myself only now, I cannot (morally) market it with confidence unless I know for sure why it played up. And I’d be highly disappointed in any person or institution that may possibly be able to do so without very clearly pointing out any caveats that they’re aware of.
I do not have any expertise to give, but did wonder if the Aurender NH10 has been tested connected directly to power instead of the P20. You have tested the P20 drawing 300w and found it to be okay - perhaps you need to test each unit that was connected to the P20 to rule out flaws in every part of the equipment chain. I’ve had units blow fuses due to internal flaws as well as external power issues. Hope you get this resolved.
Tom, the Aurender AP20 as well as the NH10 is working flawlessly fed straight from our local utility (which I can’t chance indefinitely), a Victron Quattro-with-Lithium-fed wall plug, with a PS Audio Power Base in between as well as with a Transparent Powerwave X. The minute it’s plugged into the P20, the NH10’s fuse goes immediately. With only the AP20 connected the P20 then apparently goes into protection mode. The first time scalding hot by the time I discovered it (probably two hours or so after switch-on); and the second time within half an hour and with its heatsinks slightly warmer than expected from a half-hour doing almost nothing.
In both above instances I’ve tested the P20 exhaustively afterwards using a Meaco dehumidifier drawing approximately 22%- and 300-watts max.
“Getting this resolved” to me only means an acceptable explanation allowing me to sell the P20 with a clear conscience.
Finalizing this thread: I’ve never received an explanation as to the above problem. I’m very disappointed that an official reply was never forthcoming. Though to be honest, I never emailed technical directly. I can only assume the reason, whatever it is, was not for “public consumption”.
By this time I already had the Transparent PowerWave X, fed by my Victron Quattro inverter directly from LI batteries. With this configuration I haven’t had a day’s problem. In fact, I’m continuously amazed how my relatively humble setup actually sounds better that the (on paper) much higher-end system I had before. Without all the anxiety about interconnects, “upgradeatitus”, overheating, running in fuses etc. Not a single CD or any physical media in sight! All given away to a friend.
To me it would’ve been morally wrong to sell my P20 knowing it had an issue. So I sent it to an excellent technician in JHB, who gave it a thorough check-over. Even opened it to check for leaking caps etc. Given a clean bill of health, I then sold it for very, very cheap.
Glad that the P20 checked out. I am confused why you are disappointed at PS Audio for not answering a question that you didn’t pose directly to their technical team. It seems rather unfair to be upset when you didn’t reach out directly. If I am misunderstanding your post and you did send an email to technical support but didn’t hear back, then that is another issue.
In all the years I’ve been on this forum, I do not recall a PS Audio technician answering a question here. Perhaps you could have posted here AND sent an email? Hmmm…
PS Audio monitor these forums - at least to some extent, as is evident by the plentiful responses from their team to questions raised about new equipment released. Had I commented on the new PMG DAC I’m quite sure it would’ve been different.
It remains a valid point well taken, Tom. Had I emailed them directly, I’m quite sure I would’ve received a reply. But I very much doubt if it would’ve been one that solved my problem.
The only problem I had with the P20 was back in 2020. It keep blowing the fuses in my Aurender N10 streamer. It always blow the fuses on start up. I then put some slightly higher rated fuses in the Aurender and the built-in SSD cashe drive failed. I got rid of the N10. Everything else worked perfectly with the P20, so I assume the problem is only with the Aurender. It’s been many years and I still have no issues with everything I plugged in the P20, only excellent sound quality.
Very interesting remark, Waymanchen11. In fact, my P20 also blew fuses twice on my Aurender NH10 network hub! (not to be confused with the N10 streamer). And also straight from start-up!
It also ran incredibly hot with only the AP20 - even with very, very low wattage drawn - just on “idle”. Even causing the P20 to shut down, I suppose into protection mode.
I got rid of the P20. Everything then worked 100% with the Transparent PowerWave X passive conditioner. Also, I did not pick up any such problems about Aurender when I searched the web. I assumed that: There must be something about the P20’s output that is different, shall we say - “non-standard”, compared to passive devices or even straight from the wall.
It’s only been about 4 months - but thus far I’m highly impressed with what I’m hearing from the AP20 with NH10 and Transparent. No more overheating or blown fuses either. Listening to Alice Sara Ott [Field] right now via Tidal sounds amazing!
Whichever it is a regenerator or passive conditionder, it is alway better than plugged directly to the wall. My 300 watts monoblock amps was very noisy both with high transformer hum and hiigher grainny sound plugged to the wall, but was very quiet and no grain plugged into the P20. The sound has more detail and dynamic contrast plugged into the P20 also. I recently got a Puritan PSM 156 plugged into a different dedicated circuit for my power amps and preamp only, and I liked the sound more being smoother and more natural sounding. Evrything else is still plugged into the P20 for a really balanced sound. Everything plugged into the Puritan would be too smooth for my taste. You can tweak the sound of your system with power conditioners just like with power cables.
At one time I had P15 plus PSM156 in my system, and that was a great combination; better than with P15 alone. Unfortunately, both required hi-end power cords to bring out the best SQ.
But Gryphon PowerZone replaced both and I never looked back. I only need one power cord for it to serve all components. Well, even Gryphon says a better power cord would elevate its performance. So, Stealth D2020 came in play and that was a revelation on how good the combo could do. You have one if I remember right. Try it on PSM156 see what that will bring you.
Hmmm … I’ve heard about that Gryphon At one stage even considered it. It seems the Gryphon, Transparent PowerWave X (e.g.) and the PowerPlant address different “issues”.
Speaking for myself, I’m not interested in regeneration any more - I’ll just rely on a steady 230V supply (in SA) from my Victron instead. BUT I’d still like conditioning / protection … and well, if I can have some “Gryphon magic” thrown in that’d be nice.
It seems as though the Gryphon does the magic but not anything else though?
It is basically a fancy power strip, but what it does to the sound is quite amazing. After it was introduced into the system, I am done with generator and conditioner too.
At one stage even considered it. It seems the Gryphon, Transparent PowerWave X (e.g.) and the PowerPlant address different “issues”.