I use a single P20 for entire system and HTHT amp. I would try running everything. My Monoblocks are 1000 WPC each. The 6 channel HT amp can output another 100WPC. It never shuts down with 2 Channel. The only time system has shut down is LFE effects in a movie that is continuing explosions. The P20 will sound beteer running front end. Also do the 3M AB7050HF on the P20. The cleaner sound and lower noise floor will make your amps draw less current by not amplifying the high frequency noise. You will not listen at higher volumes looking for more clarity in the signal source. The bass is more solid too.
You have probably mentioned them before, but make and model if you don’t mind, please.
I am a big fan of high current/wpc mono blocks. Mine are 500wpc (Emotiva XPA-1 Gen1/MKI).
They are MC1000. First quad balanced amp and same circuit design as current big amps. Capable of 160 amps current. I have hit 2K peaks with them.
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Definitely made for head room! No longer manufactured apparently, sadly.
Do you find them able to finesse and grab onto and present low level details to your satisfaction? Some MACs have (not necessarily deservingly so) a reputation for grunt without finesse, if I recall some of my reading correctly.
Anyway, nice kit.
This might help. A pair of BHK 300s, pass pre-amp, two REL subs, a DSD and a farad power supply driving an optical Rendu. Lots of head room on my P20. I do have it on the 20A side but don’t need to.
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Thanks. They have plenty of low end finesse and headroom. I had new caps installed in 2020 which greatly helped the bass. All of the caps needed it. They were all sourced from McIntosh to ensure it operated to spec and redone by Authorized service center. I have heard some owners of MC1000 have blown their woofers
They run in class A and get pretty warm until it shifts to B. But I run them in A the Quad balance let’s them push WPC quite high so the P20 and the MC1000s all feel like three fire pits lined up. I have thought about replacing them with MC1.25KW but have not liked the sound of the pairing with speakers at dealership. The only McIntosh big amps that have sounded comparable are MC901 or MC2KW. It might have been setups, but it seemed the 1.25KW sounded gray up top and not as open. Next time I get to Scottsdale the dealer their said he would let me compare all 3 on same line arrays they Demo with the MC2KWb The only other non McIntosh amps he had which I really liked were the D’Agostino M400. The other big amps like big Burmester also sounded gray up topl ike the MC1.25KW. I like silence with my highs and not hearing the recordings or amps electronic noise. The gray sound makes it seem the images are buried back in a fog. Live amplified concerts sound like that to me often. Some people call that air but to me it can sound like noise in the electronics.
My current system tweaking most music is absent that unless a poor recording. But I have been working to cut out RF and EMI. Amp demos in your home don’t happen with these big boy amps.
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P15 arrived, so once I get ~200 hrs on it, I’m gonna try your layout. It definitely helped my P10. Thank you @vmax and @dchang05 for the effort of experimenting, finding the right locations & material size.
Let us know how the experience goes.
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Just reread the thread again.
I was one of the early adopters of this thread.
I put my absorber material into my P20 before I knew there were differences in the internal layout between the US and UK P20’s, so thinking my current arrangement may not be optimum?
I’m in the UK and I used Vmax’s US dimensions.
Any UK P20 owners who have done the mod and what dimensions did you use and where exactly did you place the absorber material under the lid.
It should be an obvious improvement as mine did! Congratulations and let us know your experience.
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If I recall, you need a sheet that goes back as far as the transformer bolt that sticks out the bottom, which I think in our case is 12cm from the front. Use same width as Vmax said. Is that right @Vmax ?
I think it depends on your model and which hole the transformer center bolt was installed in. There are three holes in a vertical line on bottom panel. Starting at center bolt and slowly moving sheet forward will let you get the cleanest highs and bass balance. The best way is using a snippet of song that gives good highs , percussion, and bass in 15 or 20 second sample. Then tuning location while sheet is on top. Next moving it to sick to the the inside of lid. Where inside supercharges effect. The length of sheet gets centered on P20 bolt right to left.
I received my 3M sheet today and I noticed that there is a label in the envelope indicating an expiry date. Do you know if the effect of this sheet is long-lasting?
The shelf life is to guarantee the adhesive properties once the peel back layer is removed and it’s activated. Same as any tape type adhesive. After 1 year adhesive may dry up or pull away from material when backing is peeled.
The absorption properties align with the material elemental properties and would be lifetime usage. It’s ability to absorb and attenuate RF or EMF to heat is lifetime.
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The other day the 3M tapes fell off from the bottom of my PST. I used the painter tape to tape them back. I then opened the lid of my P15 and the absorber is still attached, and I reinforced with painter tapes too. I didn’t want to use anything stronger that will leave an imprint. I may need to check from time to time to make sure the tapes are secured.
Thank you @Vmax !
You made a great contribution to all of us with this tweak.
I didn’t know about this particular 3M sheet and I’m impressed with the positive effects you get when listening, just by placing it on the P20.
First impressions are very positive and I don’t think it’s suggestion only.
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I cleaned surface before adhering wit IPA. I assume it is still sticking.
Thanks for the feedback. I had a blast using this everywhere. My latest discovery you can make power cable tuning rings similar to what is on stealth Dream V18. They look not pretty but work very very well. Sliding them up and down power cables. It really helps image depth and clarity on the Common Ground Whisper cable. An amazing transformation. I used a 2” wide piece and masking tape to test concept. It works so well I ordered a new sheet and plan to try to tune all my power cables.
STEALTH T Select Tunable Collars are based on numerous listening sessions with various equipment, a STEALTH “T” cable with a tuning collar in the optimum position, the overall result (sound) is better than with the cable without the collar, BUT – with the collar in incorrect position the sound is not as good as with a cable without the collar. "T” stands for “tunable” – the sliding ferromagnetic collar allows to fine-tune the sound.
The best sounding tuning collar position is different for every two pieces of equipment which that cable connect, thus it is impossible to point at the same spot (location) of the collar, giving the same sound as without the collar. Finding the best position of the collar is a lengthy process and requires some time and patience. Usually two people are needed (one is listening, and the other is moving the collar).
It is even better to have several people, and listen together. So, usually, an evening, or even entire day can be dedicated to finding the best collar position – for a particular audio system. But the result is worth the effort!
In general, finding the best position of the sliding tuning collar on a STEALTH audio cable is similar in effect to finding the best position (location) of a pair of speakers in a room: an audio system sounds MUCH better if the position of the speakers in optimized, and the same audio system doesn’t sound good with wrong (incorrect) position of a pair of speakers in a room. Another possible analogy: focusing a photo lens.
The T Select tuning collars, for cables, have the same function as the focusing ring for a photo lens. Once a lens is in focus, it offers the sharpest image, while when a lens is out of focus, the image is blurred to some degree.
The T Select tunable collars are tested and matched to a suitable companion cable.
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That is another amazing discovery, and I will try it for sure. Did you like Al’s Stealth PC? Where do you use it to get the best SQ and what do you think? I hope it is not a must-have since it is outrageously priced to use for PSA gears.
What I really want to know is have you compared the V18 to Dragon for P20?