I’ve got a P15. When used on the open outlet with the run from wall to P15, should the latter “distort” the effect of plug in units such as the Nordost (QK1, QV2), Puron, etc., as opposed to using them with a conditioner in that position, or on an output receptacle of the P15?
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Hey highstream…
Not sure if I understand your question…
If you are going to use the Nordost QK1, or the Puron…plc best to place before
P15 between wall outlet and P15…
Paul does not recommend the use of plcs with power plants…it is possible for
these to introduce distortion…
However there are a number of power plant users here that do use a form of plc between
the wall outlet and power plant.
Out of curiosity, why would you want to try a plc along with your power plant?
Best wishes
I’ve run the QK1 and Puron in the spare Furutech GTX-D outlet where a power cord runs from wall to the P15. I’ve been using a Nordost QK1 there and it improved the sound noticeably. Just swapped in a Puron with 300+ hours burned in using an unrelated outlet and gave it several hours before listening. Fantastic clarity, sense of transparency and deep clean bass, best I’ve heard in my system. Problem is that the sound also became dry and a little pitch flat. Clear notes, no lack of feeling. On the WBF Puron thread, someone suggested that the regenerator’s renewing the AC undercuts what the Puron does, that it would instead be better to plug it into the P15’s output end, alongside a source. I don’t know. An experiment with a 3-outlet short 12 gauge power from Home Depot didn’t do the Puron well.
You mention what Paul says. Paul also says that the regenerators are only about 80% effective. My experience with the QK1 suggests the truth of that. I’ve got a QV2 coming soon, so may pick up a power strip to run in parallel with the P15.
I’ve used an Add-Powr Electraclear eau4 (Add-Powr’s owner invented the tech that Nordost uses in their similar products) on the outlet powering my P3 regenerator and it works to very obvious effect. Some people have felt the Add-Powr products don’t work well with PS Audio regenerators but that wasn’t the case in this instance.
Hello,
I have the Epluggs Strom High End in the open outputs of my P10.
I have 4 pieces to close all exits. Also highly recommended are the RCA / XLR plugs from Epluggs More calm, dynamics and therefore a better stage.
The epluggs are purely passive with minerals, crystals and diamonds
There are no open plugs in my P15. I once tried RCA plugs and found they did nothing.
Hello, which RCA plugs have you tried? Or was it just caps? The epluggs come in different levels. And each stage has a different impact. Both for me and on other systems. I have the Epluggs RCA Reference and Highend.
Maybe a solution with EMV foil like Vmax and dchang described here is interesting
Furutech Plug is another passive solution. Also Akiko Audio
I’m missing what these posts have to do with the question posted and the follow up explanation.
@highstream, Welcome to Tweak-Freak Alley! 
P15’s manual states power conditioning products shouldn’t be used in series with the unit. That’s a general recommendation, if you hear improvement, use it, if not, don’t.
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It’s being used in parallel.
The Puron dealer suggested DC on the AC line can affect the results. It’s something I’ve heard before about hum. NW Energy came today and measured a varying 2 to 7 volts DC (+/-) at a number of wall outlets, and even out of a P15 outlet. Not sure what to do about it, if anything. I would have thought that if filtering DC is needed for audio equipment, something like the P15 (and P20) would have a snubber.
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Actually it doesn’t say that at all. Try reading it again.
I’m in trouble with a buzz noise from the toroidal transformer of my P15. It could be caused by DC (among other possibilities) so I ordered a DC Blocker from Toroidy, a respected brand which produce toroidal transformers for Dr.Sean Jacobs PSUs and Innuos units.
Next week I’ll be able to receive it and make a test.
I already tried the iFi DC Blocker without success.
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Good luck with the Toroidy DC Blocker.
Have you tried to put a duro70 or rubber damping column under the Dragon HC plug at P15? It may not do anything to reduce the hum because I do not have humming issues, but it does improve the sound.
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Luca hate to say it, but Steve Huff had the same issue. He had P20 and loved it. But it still let DC in. Guess every product has a weakness. So he tried the Puritan device. Blocked all DC. Not sure if there is a way to measure if that is really the issue. Video of that is below. He ended up selling P20 and keeping the Puritan. Not that its a bad device, but knowing how much you spent on P15 it stinks.
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Steve Huff says PSA claims the P20 (and P15?) snub DC, but I’ve never seen that claim. In any case, he found the P20 killed most of the hum, but ended up preferring the Puritan Audio conditioner on those grounds (loss of warm, though, is not something I’d like). Mark Schifter, who imports the Puron units, suggested the Wyred conditioner for its DC snubbing as a first step. Mark also created Core Power Technologies conditioners, which also snub but cost a bit more, and are now owned and sold by Walt at Underwood HiFi.
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I have not watched in a while, but he did say his issue was DC and the puritan did a better job. He had some sort of hum from amp or something… Which is why I suggested it to Luca.
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Just to add my experience. I owned a P20 and BHK 300s. I had a small hum (ear next to speaker kind of hum) out of my speakers with that combination. Sold the P20 (no hum inside the P20) and replaced it with a Puritan: hum went away. I think it was the BHK 300s but I’ll never know for sure. I bought Pass Lab 260.8s and the Puritan hummed (inside the unit) like crazy! Sold the Puritan and replaced with a Shunyata Denali…all is dead quite.
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