Power cable for P3?

I can understand why a good cable between my P3 and source equipment matter. I don’t understand why the cable between the outlet and power input to the P3 matters. Please explain. Thanks

My own personal opinion is that it isn’t about improving the AC as it’s presented at the receptacle. Your power cord will never do that. In that regard, I think all the people who scoff at expensive power cords are right - it’s not going to magically wipe out the crappy current that comes through your house’s service and wiring to get to the plug. It’s more a question of doing the least amount of damage from that point as possible. Putting a high quality cable in that spot in the chain is just a way of doing what you can to get the P3 the best source power you can.

At least that’s how I view it.

I can’t explain why, but many feel the the power cable you are asking about - the one between the wall and your conditioner/regenerator - is the most important power cable in the entire setup.

For better or worse, it’s the approach I’ve taken, placing my best power cable there.

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It is a weird thing to consider. In theory shouldn’t the regenerator take care of that. Well yes, but we too have tried this out and found that the cable from the wall to the regenerator does make a difference. I don’t think we’ve put our finger on why. It could be that the cleaner signal coming in creates less work for the regenerator or possibly a better power cable often has lower impedance allowing the regenerator to pull necessary power more easily from the wall. But in the end if it sounds better we go with it and that’s why we use good quality cabling on the units at the factory.

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I think there are 2 aspects here. One is that PP has deliberate internal resistance to be able to regulate the mains feeding your equipment. If there wasn’t one, PP would try to regulate the whole network, which is not possible for such a small unit. PSA are constantly trying to improve in this department. So adding a thin core cable pretty much makes things “worse” in impedance department (internal resistance + cable impedance). So better (lower impedance) cable, if can say so, equalizes things to some extent. We are talking ohms and milliohms here.

2nd, I think, cable makes the difference, but not because it is better or worse. It is different. Different construction, metal composition, joints, connections, strands, shape, etc. Different enough to make sonic differences. Whether those sonic differences are better or worse is what makes that cable better for that person, but not necessary better for someone else. Because changing the cable in the wall or inside the PP is rather a specialist job, juggling the user accessible cable is one option to tweak the sound.

For example, I run cheaper thinner cables to my amps, because I find this “sagging” makes the sound smoother and less edgy.

Cables do matter. First, by ampacity. Second is voltage drop. Lastly geometry. Quality components do matter as well. For me, appearance is last.

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For additional perspective, read Calen Gabriel’s take on the matter. As he explains, electricity does not move into your equipment in one direction like DC current, we use AC so the current is both moving in and out of the component constantly. Inevitably, many will scorn the reasoning in this link as self serving.

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One thing that wasn’t addressed or spoken to, as the number of conductors increases to more than the typical 3, (L/N/G) it’s current carrying ability becomes increasingly less as the number of conductors in that cable increases. NEC Table 310.15(B)(3)(a) provides adjustment factors when installing more than three current-carrying conductors. (CCC)

My view has been to spend about $50-100 per cable. If you’re investing thousands in a Power Generator, add a few hundred in cables for all the critical gear. I think the biggest gains with power cables are from a $0.10 cable to a $50 cable. Beyond that, I’m not going to say there are no differences, but you are really into diminishing returns.

nikolay,

You’re talking my budget…Recommendations for power cables in that “to a $50 cable” range?

Thanks

Here (in no particular order) are some well made and reasonably priced (IMO) options, just in case you are not aware of these brands/vendors:

Pangea
Signal Cable
Anti-Cables
Monoprice

Other than Monoprice, which tend to be more like OEM cords in terms of materials and design, Signal cable is the only offering that will get you close to a $50 price point, however.

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NRG Custom cables is a good supplier. I use many custom cables in the .5 variant.

I’ll throw in a recommendation for Belden / BAV power cables. They are well made entirely (I think) of USA components and assembled by hand to order in any length 3’ or more.

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Yes, Shunyata when on sale is $50-$75. I have purchased from Music Direct.com and The Cable Co., both in the US. They often have sales.

I appreciate the additional feedback. I originally wanted to know why the cable connection between the P3 and receptacle matters since the P3 cleans and makes new ac. Seems it should not make any difference unless the power cable restricts current flow and starves the P3.
Thanks for all the advice.

Thanks Nicolas

Appreciate the quick response

J

Scott,

Thanks. Appreciate the list

J

YW.

Sure there are more.

Hopefully, others will chime in with more options.