Lightning flashed across my mind (imagine that 
)
I read about that character named sluggo which will fill the space
of a fuse…
Wonder if “sluggo” could be replaced by an SR Blue of the proper rating (cheapest) graphene based fuse better conductor by far than a copper “sluggo”…with the fuse
replacing a warranty voiding copper slug you would in my thinking better
protect your gear plus have better response due to the graphene
Might be worth trying to avoid warranty issues
Best wishes
Interesting thought…
I am currently thinking the most non-current-limiting option would be “best” (the warranty/safeguard concerns being raised aside).
Cheers.
Wonder why they didn’t design the fuse box to plug directly into an outlet instead of requiring an additional power cord?
Besides the added expensive of having to buy an additional power cord, there’s the whole spaghetti factor of having more wires behind the rack.
Now I’m wondering if manufacturers will ever incorporate this kind of tech inside their units?
Some may, but I’m guessing most won’t.
If I were inclined to cynicism, I’d say you might have answered your own question.
Even if they did, legal requirements probably state a fusable link must be included, which kinda defeats the purpose, whereas the end user can replace that with a slug if they want.
Note I am not recommending this course of action, I, too, wonder what insurance companies and the like would say if it went up in smoke and took your house with it, an investigating fire officer might find the slug in your plug/device, and conclude it was close to the start of the fire and it would be mentioned in any report. Probably enough for an insurance company to bail on paying?
Edit - plus of course in the UK we have fuses coming out of our ears:
100 amp into the house, 30 amp into a ring main (maybe 15 amp into a fused spur), 13, 5, or 3 amp in the wall plug (fuse inside any multi socket adapter or extension lead) 13, 5, or 3 in the device “wall” plug, 1, 3, 6 amp or others inside the actual unit on the mains inlet, any rail fuses inside.
Seems like the next evolution of the fuse box would be to incorporate it into a power cord, there by eliminating the need for an additional cord.
…Which would likely make it less attractive, in terms of cost, for many as well as placement flexibility.
What length would be ideal for an integrated PC, for example?
It’s a little early in the product cycle with this thing. My understanding is there are not too many Fuse Boxes out in the wild yet.
An integrated PC might make some sense, but I think some proof of success and sales volume is needed before they can start thinking about product iterations.
It would be useful if this box had a plug, to directly go into the wall/regen or even better into the ICE outlet of the desired component. If the problem is another cable needed. Something similar to the In-Line Furutech filter
Why would a fuse be needed? As long as there is a breaker, no matter the methodology. My Niagara 7000 I don’t believe has a fuse, but a breaker.
Come to think of it, I believe my Audience line conditioner also uses a breaker instead of a fuse.
I will be able lay eyes, hands and ears on one of these interesting pieces of kit shortly:
More to come…
Probably because there’s multiple equipment connected to it, drawing more current, not to mention they’re meant to be “reset” if and when tripped in case of power surges, etc, etc.
When was the last time anyone saw a fuse in a cheap $2 power strip? They use a resettable breaker.
And…just to be clear…this is apparently how the Swiss Fuse Box works as well:
If the microcomputer determines the current profile exceeds specifications it will immediately open the ultra-low resistance contacts of the internal high-power relay, disconnecting the load, and eliminate any further current draw.
“Resetting” FUSE BOX to its rated value requires that it be disconnected from the wall for a minimum of 15 seconds. You must also examine your equipment for problems before trying again. FUSE BOX blowing again indicates your product has a problem, just as it would using a traditional fuse.
Yeah, but the ones I mentioned are tried and true hardware solutions. No software involved.
If you have some specific details about how the “breaker” works in the Swiss Fuse Box (SFB) that makes the interruption of the current flow materially different and more “risky” than the tried and true hardware solutions you refer to, I would appreciate it if you shared same.
Nothing I have read (or at least understood) so far indicated the breaker function in the SFB is itself potentially subject to some potential software glitch or whim that would cause me to hesitate giving it a try.
I am certainly interested in making sure this device in not a deleterious addition to my equipment/signal chain.
Thanks in advance.
SEE
UK law requires a fuse in the plug anyway, if that’s been changed to allow breakers and the like then I think it happened recently, every piece of gear I’ve ever seen that has a breaker in it also has a fuse in the equipment too (talking domestic here of course).
I suspect that UK/EU law requires a fuse in the equipment too, although that may allow a breaker, I’m not an expert on this stuff 
Ask Rudolf.! He’s affiliated with a cause… Health & Safety Chief Executive 
“microcomputer” - that’s software.
Basically, it’s monitoring current usage using magnetic field sensor. That data is then sent to the microcomputer where a piece of embedded software is running to decide if the current has exceeded specified parameters, this is configurable to mimic specific fuse setting. So this is very versatile, you can just reprogram the settings to another fuse spec and move this to another device. I don’t know how it can be programmed but hopefully they can be done by end users.
