Swiss Digital Fuse Box, the fuse reinvented

Noted.

SEE

Sorry scotte1. Iā€™m not trying to rain on your parade and hope it works perfectly for you.

I fully understand how the SFB works and I can see the benefits to it. But I can also see the ā€œpotentialā€ failure points with it.

And concerns that ā€œifā€ the SFB happens to fails in some way and your gear gets damaged, if said gear still has an active warrantee, that warrantee will most likely be void due to the fact that where thereā€™s supposed to be a fuse is a solid hunk of metal instead.

I understand the desire to do tweaks to oneā€™s system to improve the performance of it that much more, but at what expense? Sure, if the SFB dies (in the good way that it alone dies, effecting nothing down stream), thatā€™s only 400 bucks gone. But what about if the SFB dies (in the bad way of not protecting your gear) and it takes out the $1000, $5000, $10k piece of equipment connected to it?

Of course, I could be totally and completely wrong about the SFB and it could work perfectly for many years and never cause a single issue. Letā€™s hope it does.

Personally, Iā€™m just not one to take that risk, and I donā€™t even have high buck gear. Iā€™ll just stick to traditional fuses. Maybe Iā€™ll venture into ā€œhifiā€ fuses one day.

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Noted.

SEE

Arrived this afternoon:




Came with brass and copper ā€œSluggosā€ for me to compareā€¦

I really need to/should run my room correction software to dial in all of the recent changes before running this in but I am not sure I can resist the temptation.

With regard to equipment safety concerns, the purveyor assures me they have done the requisite testing and the kit is as reliable as a traditional fuse provided the requisite instructions are followed. If it is not, then we will just have to find a way to resolve any resulting dispute.

Reviews are apparently underway with reputable industry publications, so there should soon be more reassurance out there w/r/t the performance and reliability of the Swiss Digital Fuse Box.

More to come.

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My Shunyata Denali uses a breaker instead of a fuse also

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Has anyone played with contact enhancers on fuses? Iā€™ve done several, the key being to use very light coating. I donā€™t know if heard the benefits with the fuses but I can certainly say I heard a big jump when using silver paste on the internal screw terminals on an amplifier.

Of course youā€™d have to be sure which sluggo you liked before ā€œpastingā€ as you need to clean the fuse terminals when removing a fuse or sluggo thatā€™s been enhanced.

Looks like the fuse setting is ā€œhard codedā€. I was hoping itā€™s end users configurableā€¦ Oh well.

You can also run it with the actual fuse instead of the sluggo, just to hear how transparent the unit is. The real improvement is when the sluggo is added to the chain.

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I am guessing the lawyers decided this was best. Otherwise the customer could make a mistake and choose the wrong settings, setting the manufacturer up to have to deal with the fallout of such issues.

Iā€™m sure this would be illegal in the UK. It would be guaranteed to cause injury, in the first instance the BSI examiner when they fall off their chair. I have a regulation supply and, as you say, there are two sets of fuses before the power even gets inside the house. The first set is installed by the power network operator and I think itā€™s illegal for anyone, even a qualified electrician, to touch them.

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Yep - lead seals (probably something other than lead now) and fuses coming out of our ears :slight_smile:

For the benefit of Americans and Mr Fremer, when this installation is done, we residents in the UK have to arrange for the power network company and the electricity supplier to turn up at the same time. The power company install the cable from the street with the red foam sealant into their fuse box, and the electricity supplier install the meter, which is directly above (not shown). The loopy cables coming down out of the meter are the first ones the customerā€™s electrician is allowed to touch, so my electrician installed the second breaker box and the steel box underneath.

All this is outside of the house. Even the size of the box and where it is put is subject to regulations, and has to be fed through what they call a hockey stick (a protective conduit with a bend to take the cable underground). The cable from the steel box then runs into the house.

Iā€™ve posted this before, but inside the consumer units have to be mounted on marine ply (avoids damp ingress if there is a leak or flood, and it will never degrade) and galvanised steel conduits everywhere. There is a master breaker, RCDā€™s, breakers on each circuit - this is all standard per the regulations, nothing special, nothing DIY.

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Which is the AWG or section in sq. mm of your wires (the internal ones from breaker room to each single dedicated outlet)?
I suppose the rating is 16A both the breakers and the outlets, is it correct?

I used this cable from the consumer unit to the wall socket.

Itā€™s quite expensive, but I only needed 8m at a cost of just under ā‚¬300 and people here pay twice as much for a fuse. It is 13AWG and rated 27A, but has the advantage of being extremely flexible, so is much easier to run than other cables.

The modem and AV have separate direct feeds using the most popular of cables:

This is a lot cheaper and much stiffer. It is 14AWG rated for 18A up to 50ā€™ and 13A up to 76ā€™.

Virtually everyone just says use 10AWG cable. It is a little more sophisticated than that, you donā€™t need 10AWG, it depends on the cable design, how long and the angles you need to deal with.

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So looking forward to reading about your experience with this
new device.

Just a thought please donā€™t touch room correction just yet in order to have
a direct apples to apples comparo on the sound qualityā€¦

Thanks scotte1

Best wishes

Had a minor setback delaying trial of the SDFB. The ā€œSluggosā€ provided were not specified (were not correct dimensions) to fit in the P10 fuse holder.

Property sized Sluggos should arrive today or tomorrow.

More to comeā€¦

Expecting delivery of the correctly-sized brass and copper ā€œSluggosā€ todayā€¦

FYI.

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Hope it all comes together for you Scotte1

Best wishes

Sluggos arrived today (Brass and Copper). The ā€œFuse Boxā€ was installed between my Synergistic Research Tesla SE PC and a Shunyata Taipan Helix Alpha PC plugged into the PSA P10 Regenerator.

I started with the copper Sluggo.

I have been listening for over an hour.

I am surprised (and pleased) by the perceived, very positive, impact on the sound of my system. Initial impressions:

  • Lower noise floor allowing micro details and quieter recording content to emerge with a greater sense of clarity and ā€œdistinctionā€

  • An overall sense that every thing is more ā€œorganicā€/having a more natural tone especially piano and percussive instruments

  • A greater sense of the ambiance of/in the recording venue when present

  • Acoustic instruments seem to sound more like they would live/seem to be more accurately reproduced.

  • The resonance and lingering decay of instruments being struck, plucked, strummed, etc. is more discernible and palpable.

More listening to do, but absent some mechanical or programming issue, I wonā€™t be returning the Fuse Box. :slightly_smiling_face:

I am looking forward to others reporting on their experience with the Swiss Digital Fuse Box and I am wondering if my impressions are consistent with those who have reported material improvements with ā€œaudiophile fusesā€.

Cheers.

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What fuse did the sluggo replace?

SR Quantum Fuse (Orange).

SEE