As a follow up to the conversation, maybe ask for further insight into the quality of this switch from their statement:
“the ultra-low resistance contacts of the internal high-power relay”
This is probably the key component for this device. My guess is it’s still better than the fuse, but who knows.
Maybe I’m missing something but it seems one would need to buy one for each component in one’s system
It’s either that or start a crack habit.
Care to clarify…?
I did not understand your statement.
TIA.
On the Decware forum one denizen there just reported his initial, very favorable, impressions from using the Swiss Digital Fuse.
Mine should arrive today or tomorrow.
What’s the gist of the “favorable” comments, if you don’t mind?
Scott
I’ll let Groovy tell you himself. . . . He’s a member here.
I’m guessing @lonson is referencing my post on the Decware forums.
I’m hesitant to get too much into how it changed the sound as it’s still evolving. I will say that the sustain is unreal. The first track I played had a few cymbal hits in the beginning they exploded out of nowhere and kept on ringing. It seems that noise I didn’t know was there has been removed.
I’ve had it in my system for less than 24 hours and I ordered two more units. This will cover my entire system… (almost) not my LPS for my Ether Regen. I am using a power distributor to have more than one component on the FUSE BOX. 2 components one rated 3A the other 4A FUSE BOX is 3A slow blow. My Phono Stage doesn’t have a fuse.
I had a combination of SR Purple and Audio Magic M-1 fuses in my components. I also tried it on my Torii MKV and that was a nice step up over the M-1’s. It seemed to have a bigger impact on the tube amp than the front end components.
I have two more PC coming right now I’m dancing around moving stuff to try different combinations.
I don’t like it when people describe something as straight better… I don’t find it very helpful. I will elaborate once I get some more time on the box and the Sluggos. I’m about 16 hours in right now. 50 hours I should give me a more accurate assessment.
Surprisingly I prefer the brass sluggos over the copper sluggos at first listen. I am curious once I get more time on both the brass and copper which I’ll prefer more.
Thanks for the follow up!
much appreciated…‘though I wish you would have left that last paragraph out; as I have yet to hear and experiment with the two options.
FYI, my company contact responded to my enquiry and expressed a preference for having the “best” PC follow the Fuse Box and plug into the component it is serving.
Time will tell…
Regards.
But why do I prefer one over the other? that’s the mystery!
A little late but I blurred it out 
LOL…
Thanks.
Thanks, did they say anything about the PC before the box, from the wall to the box, can that be any PC? If another “best” PC is required/preferred there, that would negate the cost benefit of the box compared to SR latest fuse.
We just discussed preferences as between the initial placement choice.
I am going to have to experiment.
Another question, might maybe be an important question is if your equipment is under warranty and something happens and you burn out a circuit, will the manufacture still honor your warranty since you bypass their system and put in your own? Or does this new fuse bypass company cover the warranty? I’m not saying it will happen, probably it will never happen, but Just asking.
Good question
Another “good question”: is the “Swiss” in Swiss Digital a providence in Bejing?
Agreed, good question. Since this is basically a software defined fuse. And we all know software are prone to software bugs 
I would be very surprised if the PC before the Fuse Box didn’t change the sound. I don’t see this as a value proposition vs other fuses. I see it as value for increased musical enjoyment. Using $1600 PC makes it a $2000 situation. $400 PC $800 so it’s gets really spendy quick.
When audiophile fuses like the SR ones started becoming popular that was a very common question and valid concern. Seems almost no one thinks twice about it now. Most manufactures use the cheapest fuse they can find made in China. The Fuse Box has been extensively tested for over a year.
I don’t think Audio Magic, SR, Tellos, ACME or any of the other fuse makers cover warranty repairs if there is an issue.
My Sutherland Little Loco MK2 doesn’t have a fuse the IEC is wired directly to the transformer.
@scotte1 Blurring the observations below for you
Replacing the 2x 3.15A AM M-1 fuses in my Torii MKV with the copper Sluggos was a nice step up over the AM M-1. More dynamic, Maybe a bit louder? The holography expanded, I really don’t like using the term blacker background… It really is though. A little bump in over all speed.
The brass Sluggo slows things down and makes things extremely euphoric. The music almost becomes thick in the room. It’s really wild.
Both provide a great benefit, they take away an anxiety that I didn’t know was there, it melted away. Like an invisible irritant that is no longer there.
I’m still getting a feeling for how the different positions and copper vs bass sound different.
You have captured my current sentiments regarding such questions.
Fuse Box is in route!
Cheers
PS
Thanks for keeping the spoilers to yourself, but no need to resist sharing your listening experience. Post away.
SEE
