I always love a picture of a strut tower brace. It makes me knees wobbly.
That carbon fiber duck bill in the front looks to cost about the same as the one on my Z06. I only curb tested it once and luckily it was stronger than I thought it would be. I swear the front wheels were off the ground before I realized I was in too deep. I got out expecting the worst and there was definitely a big scuff on the bottom of the piece but no other visible damage. Felt like a complete idiot. Luckily the only witness was my bride of 40 years and she just smiled.
I’m on my third splitter. Only my fault once, though.
I did hit a pothole that was big enough that it bent both left side rims. They wholesaled for $1100.00 plus a $450.00 ea core charge and I have $1000.00 deductible so I just bit the bullet and paid up. I also found out that the lo pro run flats take a lot of skill to bead seat too. I took the tire store a couple of hours to get them to take air.
A few gray whiskers, or some good ole’ common sense. Both work well when driving “lively” vehicles. Most guys get in trouble real fast because they know nothing more than nailing the loud pedal to the floor and leaving it there, thinking they can steer out of it… 99% of the time, they can’t.
Just do a YouTube search for things like “Mustang fails” or the like (not hating on Mustangs BTW). You’ll see exactly what I’m talking about. LOL
We have a lot in common my friend. I noticed your avatar in another thread a few days back and thought to myself, “I know that exhaust!”.
I never put the intake cover back on after doing the upper and lower match port/polish job. But the strut tower brace is there!
I also have a carbon fiber chin spoiler. Hand laid and made to order straight out of Japan. The last I checked, only five or six in the US.
Also have this trim piece around the tach. More bits will come, in moderation.
My brother traded in his 2016 Z for an Italian ride, which is pretty sweet as well.
And of course, the HKS Hi-Power exhaust…
Which is why I never understand comments about being “afraid” of a vehicle’s power, etc. The car or motorcycle will not do anything you do not tell it to do.
I have driven many 1,000 BHP cars, many superbikes, etc. on both the track and street, including dedicated racing machines. None have randomly decided to run off on their own with me fighting for control.
I however remain convinced that Ducati superbikes secretly maintain a desire to kill you.
True but some designs definitely don’t handle the power distribution smoothly enough. To me the handling is much more important than pure muscle.
My daily driver is no fancy Porsche - just the latest Golf R with a Stage 2 tune - around 3.4 sec 0-60. The hot hatch is a great concept - both fun and practical.
Mine “73” Grand Torino around 400 horsepower duel exhaust Flowmaster. Bought in Tennessee.
Mine Mercedes 500E 5,0 Avantgarde aut. AMG 462 horsepower
we also have a clk 500 convertible.
Love the Ford…
It has won several exhibitions in the United States
Very nice! The HKS Hi-Power exhaust system is such a no-brainer for these rides. The masses seem to prefer less “sophisticated” choices IMO. Short of FI, do you have any suggestions on how I can squeeze a few more HP out of the G37S? Intakes and exhaust are the only related changes I have made.
Anyway, enjoy the ride (and the music).
I don’t have much sense in tuning cars (only mecdes lol). I use https://www.kleemann.dk/ for my MB. I dear not so much in Ford as it is a gathering object.
I cannot think of a car where this is a problem for safely driving the vehicle.
I can however think of cars with poor handling characteristics, such as older Porsches’ snap oversteer. Not only is it east to induce by lifting the throttle in the corner, recovery requires putting your foot back into the throttle, counter-intuitive for most. It took years for Porsche to engineer that out of its cars.
(The problem was Porsche’s semi-trailing-arm rear suspension. When unloaded, such as by lifting the throttle, the rear tires transition from negative to positive camber, and the outside tire’s toe-in is reduced - and off you go!)
I had a Mini JCW 2 dr hardtop. I also had it tuned. The torque from front wheel drive made it a bit unstable when pushed.
Electronic transmission traction control can help but you can’t beat a well designed car that is inherently solid and that has intuitive behaviour (no surprises)
The hot hatch has come a long way since the time I lived in Italy and the days of the Lancia Delta Integrale.
The Torino is nice. A freind had one with the 428 engine. It was fast but the Michigan winters slowly consumed it.
Torque steer can be an issue with higher power FWD, typically caused by unequal half-shafts. Manufacturers have become adept at resolving this issue. However, there remains a practical limit to how much horsepower can be effectively transmitted through the front wheels - basic physics gets in the way.
You either learned the concept of slow-in/fast-out or it wasn’t for you. One must always be paying attention in car with that much rearward bias. I must admit that I had my '69 S on the track last summer and after driving a Boxster 99% of the time, it did scare me a couple times. Like you said about the Ducati, old 911’s are absolutely trying to kill you.
Many year track rat and driving instructor here.
Yes, Porsches demand slow in/fast out, as well as fast hands and ignoring what your brain is telling you and quickly adding throttle. Then you hope you do not run out of track before the car comes back.
The pendulum effect of a rear engine exacerbates the problem by generating greater polar momentum, but the problem is primarily suspension design. Porsche has incorporated many fixes: kinematic toe, moving the engine forward, bigger rear tires, longer wheelbase (which also increases high speed stability), deletion of torsion bars, huge rear sway bars, torque vectoring, rear wheel steering, and of course electronic stability control - not to mention AWD.
My experience is this is part of what Porsche drivers enjoy about the car. It is a challenge to master the car.