I know the Carbon Fiber cover plate puts it right over the top into LaLa land. I’m getting one too.
You need a new one, yours is wrinkled.
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You are correct the Romex should be in conduit if outside the wall (I also think if in fully grounded metal-conduit it may help shielding some EMC noises out, as the braided and ground terminated cable does for signals). We have finished basement thus it will be some efforts to place this additional Romex in the wall. Therefore, I have Romex partially in the wall and partially outside the wall. The Romex first comes directly out of breaker box (20A breaker) and being placed inside the wall between utility room and storage room (next to listening room), then comes out of the storage room from inside and goes along the edge of door frame and get into the listening room along the corners and floor adjacent to wall, finally it reaches P20 (I think I ended up laid out close to 100 ft of Romex). Visually its color blends well with the floor in listening room and doesn’t look too bad (plus we have a lot of stuff including records in the room and Romex is behind them). Underneath Furutech outlet and its thick aluminum plate is a heavy duty cast aluminum junction box bolted to a wood panel with rubber feet. The junction box came with metal gland and rubber grommet for Romex.
Maybe you should use MC cable instead. It has metal shield and better protection from damage.
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It’s not a Furutech but the price was right! I hope to have my dedicated 20 amp line for my two channel system installed this weekend.
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A dedicated 20 amp line would make a wonderful improvement. Make sure to use #10 wires with dedicated neutral and grounds wires as well.
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The issue is if the solid conductor is moved and it fatigues and arcs. If it is moved or have smal children vvit needs to be multistranded.
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That’s the plan! And I’ll be P20 prepared if I’m fortunate enough to own one someday!
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Thanks Vmax, wires are stationary and our kids are grown up already (they rarely come to listening room); Will keep this in mind, glad to learn something today;
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A care package arrived from Ken & Alvin at Vinshine today…
The Mk3 upgrade kit for my Jay’s Audio CDT2 Mk2.
For the few other forum members here that have performed the same upgrade and DIY-ed the install, how large an undertaking was it? Anything I need to be careful of or watch out for?
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I think @aangen Al did his Jay’s transport.
I did the upgrade to mine. It went well and was done in less than a half hour.
The only tricky part was correctly identifying the screws that allow you to remove the display.
If you have a cellphone take pictures of what things look like so you can review them on reassembly.
It’s a much better machine when you finish.
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My next upgrade: See the Iconoclast thread
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That’s probably the case for me as well…
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Could be a while as the patent process in the States can be rather protracted. I’d have held my cards closer personally as those considering an Iconoclast cable purchase will surely hold off.
I bought some adjustable color ton LED light tubed with a remote. I matched the color warmth to my McIntosh mono meters. They have a blue that matches the PS Audio Logo lights too for you single brand FanBoys! Not that that is a bad thing
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Which sounds better - the PSA Blue or the Mac Green?
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@scotte1 Well that’s throwing me some shade. Perhaps when there are some PSA amps with 1200 WPC into 8 ohms I can answer that.
Right now the P20 and DS DAC sound superb either color though my Amps are McIntosh as are my Speakers and preamp. So for now I will continue to be a hybrid and loving it.
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It looks like you bought the same light saber Obi-Wan!
I used industrial strength velcro on unlit side of the tubes to hide mine behind the outside edge of the display and float them. It provides a bit higher accent on the wall.!
May the force be with you!
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What products are you using for the lights?