I connect my two REL subs to my Apex by only connecting the red and yellow connections to the positive output post for each channel. I don’t have the black conductor connected to anything at all. It works perfectly.
So left sub, yellow and red cable to the left positive speaker terminal on the amp.
Right sub, yellow and red cable to the right positive speaker terminal on the amp.
Black not connected on either. High Level rocks!
This is how REL recommends to connect them. People don’t like to believe it. That is their choice.
Note: you can also connect to the speaker terminals on the speaker itself instead of directly to the Amp.
A problem I have for my home office, is that I want to upgrade my Yamaha MSP5 active speakers Rowen / Swiss HD Solo 6 bookshelf speakers and Rowen Absolute One mono block power amps. But I only have space for a single subwoofer.
I guess I will have to ask Dynavox in Switzerland or the Swiss dealer about how to best deal with that, they are also REL reps/dealers.
Mine are very modestly tuned. The bottom pair are like one click, but turned up. The top two have a higher crossover point, but aren’t nearly as high with volume. This was a @vee idea from a few years ago with arrays. I love it.
For those that are putting their REL on to carpet, with stacks I found that they started to lean on the carpet despite their combined weight. Putting thin steel plates underneath helped quite a bit in balancing the arrays and in sound quality.
When I used to live in Texas I bought two beautifully flat ground pieces of granite at Woodcraft of all places. I put them on the carpet and my floor standing speakers on top.
ARGH. I have been tempted to try one more Audio Magic M-1 and I finally succumbed–going to place it in the ZROCK2 in my main system that has a Purple in it now. (I have an M-1 in my P15, and Purple everywhere else but my DSD as I have not ever taken the lid off).
What pushed me over the edge is that I can then put the Purple in there now into the ZROCK2 in my headphone system. (The ZROCK2 in my audio-visual system already has one).
Jazzman Henning, (jazzman_henning, Instagram) a German or Austrian Audiophile, Carpenter and Interior Designer, puts his Brinkmann and Audionet equipment on Slate Basis, he actually chooses that above the granite basis Brinkmann supplies their equipment on as a standard.
Slate is a layered much softer stone than granite. Be careful when handling its edges, they can chip, which in my mind makes it look even more natural.
Slates capability to absorb unwanted resonances is ideal for Audio applications.
Slate looks really good anywhere. Due to its many shades of grey, caused by different layers /color of soils that were compressed to slate over centuries.
I like Slate as I have lived in the beautiful Westerwald mountain range with predominantly Slate stone and Basalt in Germany.
For electronics or on tiled, concrete or other hard surface floors I recommend to put the slate slab on Lehmann Audio absorbers:
Order these feet, find a stonemason (German stonemason) who can cut you slabs of Slate stone: You have got yourself ultra high end absorber that will look great in any room on any floor or furniture. For not much money.
I use squares of cultured quartz under my amps and subwoofer. The local shops charged me $50 each. It’s basically scrap after a kitchen counter project. Best bargain in audio.
Same here. I have 3cm quartz under all power and source components with Herbie’s spikes underneath and VooDoo IsoPods on top. Once placed, it seems to work good, but lugging amps and regenerator into position is a back breaker.
I put a Dragon power cord on the MKII yesterday, without burn in, and it was an immediate improvement.
I don’t have the discipline or desire to wait for optimum conditions and generally feel that something good should happen out-of-the box. What is does sound like is nothing at all. Not a better this-or-that. Rather, a veil lifted. I like to think passive components should do exactly that. Get you closer to the source.
