Many here are enjoying these and other fuses…
and more than likely will not revert to stock …
Whatever floats your boat Barsley…
Enjoy your tin plated and veiled fuses…
Best wishes
I’ve said in each of my responses you can use what ever you wish, but by doing so doesn’t make it a smart choice. I have a friend who uses a 20mm length of pure copper 5mm in diameter for critical listening. A fuse is there for safety, and the fact remains, that many folks selling high end audio components like fuses and wire, are not approved for that usage or UL approved or VDE certified. I prefer to use those items that are designed and approved for the given purpose.
Actually, the fuse in my P10 is rhodium plated, which has a lower electrical resistance than either silver or gold. It’s not what you may think you know that will get you, it’s what you actually don’t know that will. The truly learned man knows that as his sphere of knowledge grows, the sphere of what he doesn’t know grows larger than that which he does know exponentially.
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The reason SR fuses were known to blow and users learned to go up in size, typically 25% or the next amperage value up, is that they are not made to UL spec, i.e., industry standard. SR wasn’t saying this publicly, but I read they had privately, as had their resellers who were having to replace a lot of blown fuses. Does this endanger the equipment? I haven’t come across any cases in my reading, though perhaps… I would think that an undesirable surge would take out a little higher amp fuse very quickly too. Another thing is that many — and I’m going to risk saying smart — developers spec fuse amperage well above what’s actually needed to account for the wide variety of systems, users and circumstances. Otherwise, they’d be dealing with warranty repairs all the time.
I didn’t have any problem with AM beeswax fuses ordered to spec values, but I did have an Ultimate Premier I picked up second hand fall apart on me while being properly handled. Of course, there was no recourse. So I’ve stuck with the SR Orange, which I found clearly superior to the Ultimate, and a good deal more affordable than the Premier, especially during the 3-for-2 sales.
Early on in this thread, someone asked the good question, why does a regenerator need a better fuse. One could ask the same question about the power cord feeding the regenerator. I even had a well-known cable developer talk me out of buying one of his power cords to replace an AC-12 on my P15 because, well, it regenerates all the AC. One of the recent Ask Paul videos speaks to this, specifically that the regenerators are amplifiers and their output is not fully independent of the source. Paul used the figure 90%. Having just a couple of days ago stuck a top of the line pc in there, I’d say the improvement in clarity and robustness is a very substantial 10%.
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Thanks, all for the very interesting discussion here on this topic of fuses… I received my first couple of audiophile fuses- the Telos Quantum X2. Place one in my PS Audio P10, and other in my new Primaluna Evo 400 pre amp.
Holy smokes!! Massive soundstage, lively performance, lower noise floor, organic visceral instrumentals and vocals. Put the factory back in, the system sounded anemic and castrated big time!
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Congratulations!
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Anyone have experience comparing the sonic improvements of the Telos Quantum X2 with any other fuse?
Do you change both digital and analog fuses in your DS? Are they slow blo fuses?
Don’t quote me but the analog fuse is just a spare and not a working fuse. The only active fuse is the digital so that is the only one to change if doing so.
CORRECTED
The digital fuse is not used, so I leave it empty. Yes, they are slow blow.
Are you guys sure?
My recollection is that the analog fuse is not used.
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You are right. The digital fuse is used and the analog fuse is spare.
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Right from the chief digital dude gents
tedsmithChief digital dude
They both are descriptions of how to install the DS kit, but they both contain very explicit instructions on how to open the case. After the case is opened the fuse sockets are clearly visible near the power inlet. Only the one labeled “Digital” on the PC board is used (think of the one marked “Analog” as a spare.)
I stand corrected and apologize for the mix up.
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I’m a bit confused. My P20 can output 2000VA @ 240V = current of 8.33A, yet the fuse fitted only seems to be 250V 5A, what am I missing? Why only a 5A fuse. Is the fuse for some internal circuit and not the full power?
Which current rated slow blow orange fuse should I get? 5A, or get something bigger as was suggested the fuse markings of orange fuses are a bit out?
The unit has capacitor banks so output is peaks from stored energy. I have a P20. Use a 7.0 Beeswax top of line fuse. I have shut the unit down a few times using home theater that uses excessive LF mix. Fuse hung in there but the internal current monitor won’t let you pull more.
Looked for beeswax, but not available in the uk. Ordered 6.3A Orange
According to their web site their Service Area is Worldwide. Was it an importation problem on your end?
Yes, I’ve learnt hard lesson recently from ordering things from abroad. My rule now is if I can’t buy it from the UK then don’t buy it.
I understand.
Chris, it was stated earlier in this thread (see #30) that the fuse is just for the control board. 220V units use an even smaller fuse.
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How did it go? I blew the 5A fuse when I did something stupid with my P5. So I’m thinking of getting a 6.3A (mainly because they’re cheaper and I don’t want to blow an expensive fuse when I’m just messing around).