The Edcor is for the DSD not the P10.
I also have a Beeswax Ultimate Premier in my DAC. Started with HiFi Tuning Supreme, then SR Black, then Blue, then Orange, finally Beeswax. There was a slight improvement every step, so I can save you the trouble, just get the Beeswax, it’s better than all the rest and then forget it. Another thing is I got 1.25a instead of 1a because these special fuses seem to blow more easily than the standard, so I got the next size up. I had a couple of SR blues blew in my Aurender N10 and then a couple of SR Orange blew. I was told somewhere next size up still has adequate protection. So far so good.
I think he means since he is opening the cover of his DS, he might as well change the fuse while he’s at it.
Gotcha! I thought I was missing something? I had to check and make sure there’s not a Edcor 4400 upgrade for the P10! Lol
You are a very funny man!!
I suspect that if you swap the big toroidal in the middle of the P20 with the XS4400 things would get (briefly) interesting
Baloney not so …magee
I started using aftermarket fuses about 10 years ago – mainly HiFi Tuning. They also did seem to blow more often whereas the stock fuses held steady. I read on the Internet somwhere (so therefore it must be true) that most commercial fuses have about a 10% tolerance before they will blow. Whether this is by design or just looser design execution I’m not sure. Aftermarket fuses, on the other hand, are built to a much tighter tolerance and will sometimes blow as a result.
Sometime ago when ordering fuses the scroll down box ticked off
fb fast blow fuse…
Synergistic fuses have been known to blow…and had to upsize
in my preamp…
In retrospect this happened after my preamp was on and then
powering up my former Parasound A21…now with my JC5
it goes on first all the time…
My thinking is that the onset current inrush was the culprit…
Things have changed a lot in 10 years…and might not be a problem any longer.
Best wishes joe
Think you’re exactly right. In my case the unit that’d blow fuses was my conrad johnson CA200 integrated and the fuse would blow when it went from standby to on. Eventually found that HiFi Tuning made an XLT (extra slow blow) fuse and that seemed to do the trick. In a suspenders + belt approach I just left the CA200 on all the time anyway. The tiny fuse in the mains/IEC connection which was the one that’d blow was a real PITA to switch-out that’s why I took the always on approach. The few times the electrical service has been interrupted the XLT has held when powering the unit back on.
It might be silly, but when someone gave me his opinion, and if I quote him, I don’t give his name specially after they’ve been called A**holes and accused of “self serving or conflict of interest.”
Which shouldn’t be allowed on this forum. I understand some disagree with his opinion but he considered that the HiFiTuning Supremes are poor compared to Futurech. As Futurech no longer exists, it can be a conflict of interest. Advising the less expensive one (copper) is not stealing the customer. If fuses using silver were that great, there would be more than a model available worldwilde. @watchdog507
Fuse selection can be daunting if one doesn’t understand some basics. Fast acting fuses provide the highest protection for a circuit, but are designed for resistive loads only. Slo-Blo or timed fuses are designed for capacitive loads, like power supplies, where inrush current would normally open a fast acting fuse. These Slo-Blo fuses can allow up to 10 times the rating for very short periods of time without opening. In all honesty, it is never a good idea to exceed a fuse’s ratings by using one of higher rating, but I certainly recognize one can use whatever they may so choose. Every time a fuse has inrush it does change the fuse’s properties, and it is certainly worth considering replacing fuses once every year or so if you listen daily and have hundreds of power off-on cycles. Here’s why…
(Image courtesy of Schurter)
Many who think a “break-in” period is a good thing, what they oft times don’t recognize, is that the original properties of the fuse has actually been degraded by the inrush as shown above.
Maybe that’s why the fuses blow in my Aurender and never in my PS Audio gear. I turn off the power of my Aurender every time I finish listening, but alway leave the PS Audio gear in standby. Only time I turn them off is firmware updates and that’s not that often. Every time the fuses blows is when I turn the power on in my Aurender. My Esoteric gear don’t use fuses, but resettable circuit breakers so never had a problem there.
Does the Schurter website describe how the aging of the tin plating matters?
Yes, it looks different in the pictures but what real-world differences are there and how long does this take to occur?
Concerning the first question, the cross section of the actual fuse wire is decreased, which decreases the life and the fuse rating. The pic shows how inrush melts the fuse as it is being used.
To your second question, the answer can be a little more complex than one might think. The time required is dependent on the value found by the equation of I2t pulse x Fp. The pulse factor can vary greatly between manufacturers and specific ratings. A pulse factor of around 2 can give you about 100 pulses before failure, but a pulse factor of greater than 3.5 can give you 10,000. These fuse parameters are not one-size-fits-all, but dependent and unique to each device model in which the fuse is used, as each model can vary greatly in their load characteristics. This is where the designer needs to do his homework in the proper selection of fuse type, rating and manufacturer to meet the load characteristics of their device as they do vary greatly. Not all fuses of a given rating and class are created equal.
I am not bashing the effectiveness of high end fuses, I have used the SR Orange and they make a tremendous improvement. My issue is should our expensive components depend on a device that is destroyed when an overload occurs. There should a type of circuit breaker that will discontinue the flow of current. Am I dreaming about something that can’t be accomplished? I hate having to replace expensive fuses for a one time use.
Please do comment on this.
Notice that in the illustration a tin plated wire…which will
deteriorate with aging…
However HiFi Tuning Supreme3s are gold plate over silver
to prevent just that which the illustration shows…
From Vh audio:
“The HiFi Tuning Supreme Fuses utilize a 99% pure silver and 1% pure gold alloy, tip-to-tip… from caps to burn wire. They also employ a specially developed ceramic casing, with an additional anti-resonance tube, as well as quantum and cryogenic treatments.”
“HiFi Tuning is based out of Germany, and the HiFi Tuning fuses have won many awards and received great reviews from the audiophile community aaround the worrld”
So it seems that in the case of the Supreme3s the aging process of time and on off cycling of
gear may not be as detrimental…
Another interesting thing is that in my 30 yr plus old Denon preamp original fuse and gear
still works and sounds good …and in my 1960’s all tube tuner MX110z tuner preamp…
and original fuse were still strutting their stuff…until I retired it.
And break in time needed very definitely…but did not degrade the fuse’s protective action
when in the onset inrush of my power amp took out the fuses in my preamp…
A general idea presented but not the end all to end all…
More than likely our gear with their special fuses will either outlive us or be traded up
for a another piece of gear…
Will I revert my gear to the stock fuses…very very unlikely…
I own a stereo power amp worth $10k that has a protection circuit against overload and another circuit against overheating and a fuse. It could be a regulatory thing, an additional protection, or a fancy addition! I replaced the fuse, with a $47 fuse that uses copper from Cardas. It enhanced everything.
On the other hand, I have a $5k phono preamp. It sounds best with what it came with hands down. i.e. aftermarket fuses buggered it!
My power plant improved with aftermarket fuses. So did my DAC and my preamp. All come with a variety of internal protection circuits that may kick in before a fuse burns. Single use fuses can last anything between an hour and 15 years. Things vary by device, user, location, and luck
You’re welcome to use anything in your equipment that you may like, however, HiFi Tuning fuses are not UL or VDE certified. Concerning your older equipment, I’m happy for you. Have a great day!