Belden ICONOCLAST Interconnects and Speaker Cabling

Yes, the magic of the CLX is when you get a good musical sub in there. For the money spent they are a nice package. To get better overall, you need to spend double the money for the mains. I am always impressed at how good the CLX are compared to the better, but HUGELY more expensive, CWT’s. The CWT and CLX share a lot of the same philosophy, too. Line sources for excellent imaging and sound stage placement), and a super fast driver compliments top down to match the 2,000 Hz and up electrostatic panel. The CLX “omission” is mostly in the bass where good musical subs can mitigate it. Subs enhance the granted, deeper and more powerful dynamic driver CWT’s bass. The CWT upgrade was a costly one as I had the CLX which aren’t easy to substantually improve in key areas.

My standard music sound so much more interesting with the six pack on eith r set of speakers. There is source emotion that was missing and you don’t realize the differences until the six pack arrived. No matter the moves or changes in my life, I will ALWAYS make sure to fit in a six pack of air suspension and high quality subs.

Right now I have NO ROOM as I keep collecting BIG boxes and items. We all know how we grow attached to all our stuff and keep it. I should sell the CLX and stereo balanced set of force 212 subs with the perfect bass kit complete for $15,000 and get the WAF back in-line. It’s all factory complete on packaging so it should ship as well. That’s a couple sets of boxes but I have SIX REL SUPER HUGE boxes eating up the HVAC room. I just need to do it and make someone real happy.

Best, Galen

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People often ask when to use XLR or RCA. First, let’s look at the fundamentals. An RCA is the most perfect voltage transfer cable there is. It meaures the voltage from the center conductor to a reference ground.

An XLR in contrast creates a balanced voltage referenced to a ground and at twice the potential as the RCA to drive longer cable lengths. This balanced XLR design creates a capacitance unbalance, CUB, because the two different voltage can’t be perfectly the same. We can have an XLR cable geometry that is very good, but not perfect. When we measure the voltage from each side of the balanced circuit, it won’t be 100% identical. But don’t despair, there is a big advantage with XLR described below.

Above is the signal side. Now we need to look at the EMI/RFI shielding side. For EMI/RFI a 100% foil shield will provide 100 dB isolation. But the foil is fragile so it is accompanied by a heavy braid shield on the XLR. The RCA uses two high coverage double braids that shield EMI/RFI equivalent to a single foil+braid. The RCA differs using the heavy braids for shielding because the shield also need to be a signal return in RCA single ended designs, so a super low DCR is required. Both ends of and RCA need to be at the same potential, zero. They c an’t be so we do have a very small return current that is inaudible in normal lengths. The XLR has a floating virtual ground and does not need this low DCR ground feature. XLR cables need a PIN 1 ground suitable for EMI/RFI and this is a drain wire.

Last we need to look at low frequency magnetic B-fields. Here the braids and foils are transparent to magnetic fields in both RCA and XLR. A shield that has a low permeability, similar to a low DCR, to magnetic flux lines is required. What kind of material is that? The easiest subject materisl is anything a magnet will stick to. And yes, those are STIFF metal pipes or similar. RCA by design can’t be too practical made this way and are subject to magnetic field interference (hum). XLR in contrast use a balanced topology to cancel the magnetic fields, and magnetic fields couple more the longer the run. XLR go a long way with the higher the voltage potential, and can shield EMI/RFI and magnetic fields. The trade-off is the voltage transfer function is slightly less than perfect. This is a fine trade-off to be able to make long runs or through dense magnetic field areas.

What is an example of a good place to be sure to use and XLR cable? If you have a situation like we see below, a good XLR cable is insurance we won’t get low frequency magnetic field problems. See that green cable snaking through the massive bundle of EPDM power cords? And yep, those cords all spit out magnetic fields. Shielded power cords don’t shield low frequency magnetic fields, only EMI/RFI so if you are counting on that, don’t.

Summary

An RCA is the obsolute best voltage transfer function design, ALWAYS.

An XLR is the best low frequency balanced topology magnetic shield design, ALWAYS.

Both RCA and XLR if made properly shield EMI/RFI 100 dB or more.

RCA to 30 feet or so. XLR longer than that OR if you have an intense bundle of power cords, run near big transformers, or like situation where magnetic noise could be a problem.

Hope this helps out.

Galen

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Galen,

I own a pair of Vandersteen 5A Carbon speakers, which have built-in powered subwoofers like the Quatros. I have them bi-wired now with Analysis Plus Oval 9’s on both sides of the crossover, but if I were to replace my current speaker cables with Iconoclast cables, how would you suggest I bi-wire them? I’m pretty sure that Series 2 belongs on the top, but what about feeding the subwoofers? Series 1? Something else?

Thanks!

— Chris

For cables below 300 Hz give or take some, you want series I’s higher CMA area (9600 versus 7632) to handle the current draw. What is the voltage drop difference across the lead?
9,600 CMA / 7,632 CMA * (1.31%) = 1.68%
A 0.34% difference.

The difference isn’t a problem using the series II full range, but to bi-wire use the cheaper series I. Use each technically where it works the best.

The series I is the best choice to blend into the series II, and how it was designed to be a “series III” in combination. The GRAPH below sums it up. I bi-wire series I on the bottom, series II on the top with my CWT’s. The advantage with the 28 AWG is exhibited well above ~300 Hz, the typical cross-over range, but the CHART below the graph illustrates how well I’ve managed to blend the two into “one” cable used bi-wire, Nice, really nice.

And I owned the Quatro Wood too for good while! Great priced range speaker.

Best, Galen

Thanks, Galen.

I’d asked about the cables for the bottom since, due to the fact that the Vandersteen 5A Carbons have built-in powered subwoofers, I don’t expect the subwoofer amplifiers draw much current. But maybe I misunderstand what’s going on.

— Chris

The series I will also blend the Vp to the series II. However, as you are correct, the amplified bass on the Vandesteen is a high impedance input you don’t need the CMA area as it is technically a “high power” take-off to the internal class-B amplifier. The recommendation is to use the same type of cable for BOTH inputs. The ICONOCLAST series is designed to “blend" between them (above data).

The 5a “sub” uses shaped amplifier M5-HP cross-over module’s input signal from the premap to the power amps with a shape slope. The upper MID bass frequency and tweeter drivers are separated with bi-wire and are standard low impedance speaker inputs. If you do not know the technology between cables, use the SAME cable when bi-wiring as recommended by Vandersteen. Doing this method with the M5-HP insured the main amplifers sonic signature remains through the entire speaker. And, the upper section can still be properly bi-wired.

Galen

J

Thanks, again. I see I didn’t look closely enough (or at all, really) at the crossover points of the speakers. It’s Series I and Series II, then.

— Chris

For those with a six pack or simiar subs that are RAISED off the floor;

I looked at my REL 31 six pack and decided to try another approach. You can always go back!

First, the fundamantal idea is to RAISE the bass image to the proper HEIGHT. A bass drum or kettle drum isn’t 18” off the floor after all. The bass eminates at 3 or more feet off the ground.

The first set-up had the lower sub level at a higher value than the upper. The thought was that the 25 Hz cross-over setting would need more level, and that the higher frequencies 30 Hz cross-over need less. Higher frequencies are more efficient. That’s true but…

The floor driver has reinforcement where the upper sub has the least. At the exact same X-over and level, the lower sub is decidedly LOUDER than the upper sub. To adjust that, an SPL meter says I needed to tweak the upper sub +3 more on the level to be the SAME volume. I set the lower sub to 25 Hz and the upper to 30 Hz and repeated the measurement. Same resut, the upper needs to be at least +3 (on my subs level control) as the lower for the same SPL output.

To lift the image up, I ended up flipping the sub’s SPL such that the upper is set higher level than the lower. This does indeed LIFT the image to a more natural position.

The L-shaped room also has an issue that requires me to use the balance to move the image +4 (2 dB) to the LEFT speaker sitting in the open with no wall(s) reinforcement. This also adjusts the bass too, so we get a more even SPL response.

I’d definitiely say, with my experimenting around, that the upper sub needs to be LOUDER than the lower to flip the image off the floor and to lift it to a more realistic image position. Better, the upper bass harmonics are image height blended. How much upper bass SPL is required depends on your room and mains speaker.

As set now, the sound quality of the IMAGE is much better to my ear. The overall the bass doesn’t always image at the floor (some sources are recorded that way, be aware). You don’t have separate image placements to try to blend. They are now both blended to the same image height. Give it a try, so far I’m pleased with the switch. And it is all switches, you can always go back.

Best, Galen

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The explanation makes sense, and I can actually understand too.

Wait, I do not have six-pack, not even one-pack. Sounds fun though!

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A heads up for those with the Vandersteen 5’s. The terminal strips on this model accommodation a much larger spade than some of the earlier/different models. I the past we’ve terminated the Vandersteen end of our speaker cables with Furutech spades. The Model 5 terminal strips will not accept this small size spade and will accommodate a more modern WBT spec 6.3mm spade.

Way Off Topic - To Bring a Smile… I couldn’t resist. Not everyone knows that in addition to being the world’s premier cabe designer, Galen is a decades old motorcycle nut with 2-very fine bikes in his stable. Now that Spring is in the air I caught a rare selfie video of his ride this morning…

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Bob is joking of course with the video. Riding my motocross bike in the day, you bet. Today? I’m on the V7 model 10 or my V85TT set-up as a strada (street) spec. I do pile up the miles, 2024 V7 has near 18,000 and the 2025 V85TT is over 11,000 miles. So as far as going, yep…I do go, go, go.

Best, Galen

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I know I’m a piker compared to some of this forum’s members when it comes to the amount of cash I’ve invested in building my system over many years, but I think my rig sounds pretty good. It’s not eye-wateringly expensive, but it’d cost me $80K or $90K to replace in a lump sum if it spontaneously combusted. I really didn’t know what it was actually capable of, though, until I replaced my speaker cables and XLRs with Iconoclast stuff. When all is said and done, I’ll have spent considerably less than $10K for an improvement I’ll describe below.

I read Galen’s design papers on the Iconoclast website and I was intrigued, seeing as how I’m a physics-and-science kind of guy. I’d asked Galen on this forum what he’d recommend to bi-wire my Vandersteen 5A Carbons, and he told me along with explaining why. Bob Howard from Iconoclast saw my question and reached out to see if he could help. I ended up ordering a bi-wire set of speaker cables per Galen’s recommendation and, at my request, Bob graciously sent along a couple of sets of XLRs with different copper grades as well.

Sadly, I had to return the speaker cables, un-listened-to, to have the speaker-side connectors replaced. The XLRs, however, upgraded the sound in a way very similar to that of the PMG 512 DAC, but heaped on top of the 512’s improvements. Bass was obviously punchier and everything was more articulate and just plain cleaner, as though sounds had been bleeding together at their perimeters but no longer were. A sort of fatiguing hash in the treble was gone, even though I hadn’t realized it was there until it wasn’t. I could listen much longer without getting weary ears. Instrumental timbre was improved over even what the 512 had brought to my system.

I emailed Bob with my positive impressions, and Galen jumped in to say, and I’m paraphrasing, “The speaker cables will bring even more of an improvement. The interconnects are relatively easier to design given the expected and tame 47KΩ load, compared to designing speaker cables that have to interface with an unknown, highly reactive load.” Bob told me I was “less than half way there” with just the interconnects.

My re-connectorized speaker cables came today. I spent some time listening through my old cables, then swapped in the Iconoclast cables. Given the build-up from both Galen and Bob, I expected to hear an improvement, though I couldn’t imagine where and to what extent. I am not exaggerating when I say I was astonished. My system now sounds like I spent at least $50K upgrading stuff. As the saying goes, I sh*t you not. It’s ridiculously better. Gloriously better. It doesn’t sound like my rig anymore; it sounds like someone else’s crazy expensive one.

I may, at some point, ask Bob to send a set of speaker cables loaded with SPTPC conductors to compare with my TPC set. Iconoclast, like many high-end concerns, allows you to return your cables for any reason within 30 days for a refund. What’s really great is that you can upgrade to a version with niftier copper within 90 days and get full credit for your original cables against the purchase price, and 75% credit after 90 days.

No, I don’t work for Iconoclast, they didn’t give or promise me anything, or pay me, or coerce me, or drug me. I’m just ecstatic, so I had to say something. This is one of those quantum-leap upgrades you usually get by dropping some serious money on a new component. If your gear can deliver the goods, Iconoclast cables will provide the mechanism. Given Galen’s designs, the cables don’t do anything to “improve” the audio signal. Instead, they’re intentionally designed to get out of the way as much as possible, letting your expensive gear do what it was designed to do without your constantly having to tweak stuff to overcome the tone controls and frequency shifts and reactance imposed by even some expensive, esoteric cables.

— Chris

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Iconoclast cables are excellent since I had two of their UPOCC XLRs. Highly recommended since one needs to spend a lot more to achieve their level of SQ. Congratulations!

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The UPOCC XLRs brought a really a nice improvement. The speaker cables, though, brought the magic.

— Chris

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Bob recently sent me a pair of SPTPC speaker cables to audition. I been using Audioquest Midnight cables since the 90s and decided to hear Iconoclasts best for myself. At first two things struck me. Soundstage stage improved immensely. This was my primary goal with these and I was not disappointed. Tone, however was very similar to the AQ cables. I was concerned that maybe I would find the silver might make the highs a bit bright but not the case. Next day differences became much more obvious. Transparency and fine details were more apparent finesse to. As days passed I became aware of a big difference in tone that I missed initially. I have a pair of Dahlquist speakers that I have owned since I bought them new in 1978. I fell hard for these since I first time I heard them. I’ve been somewhat joined at the hip with them since. My audio journey has revolved around making these sound the best that I can by building a system around them. I’ve been rewarded with clearly better sound with each upgrade over the years. However, they definitely are not perfect by any stretch. They use a acoustic suspension woofer in a enclosure designed half a century ago. Bass has always been their weak point. While not bad for what they are they can be a tad warm and slow. I’ve become accustomed to that. Over time I discovered that using my MKII DAC hooked up to my Orchard Audio class D amp directly I can minimize that. But now these Iconoclast cables seem to allow the amp to exert control over to bass with a iron fist. Just what the Dr ordered. Maybe these old girls don’t exactly have electrostatic bass now but they’re several steps closer. I’ve ordered myself a pair of these cables.

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I also found bass to be very, very articulate. My first surprise was just how much more physically palpable bass was, even when the volume wasn’t cranked, and piano sounds, as Tony the Tiger would say, “Grrreat!”

With these cables, if my speakers were sentient they’d’ve told me “Finally! Thanks, man” as the dust blew off the drivers and swirled around the room.

— Chris

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Also, if you want to give your system an 8-minute, full-body workout, cue up Ludwig Göransson’s RAINY NIGHT IN TALLINN from the TENET soundtrack. There’s a lot going on in that piece, and the Iconoclasts uncover it all.

— Chris

Thank you Chris and Ron for sharing your Iconoclast thoughts! We are grateful! Testimonies like yours allow us to grow.

Most of our customers have been working to refine their audio systems for decades. For many, it’s an absolute shock to see what cables can do or rather “not do” for or to the signal. Galen’s designs do indeed “get out of the way” allowing you to hear what the mastering/recording engineers intended and let your components and speakers delivery their best. Great recordings and music are amazing and emotional. It all comes together.

Thank you both again for your trust and for auditioning cable assemblies. The cable issue for you can now be put to rest.

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Thanks, I will try to look it up on Qobuz.

Ron Kindel