Power conditioner AND power distributor

Do folks here have the configuration outlet => power conditioner => power distributor => components? I ask because my electrician suggestEd I think about inserting a conditioner into my line, between the outlet and my Shunyata Hydra Delta 6 distributor. Thoughts?

If I’m understanding Shunyata’s description, what you have is a power conditioner.

What is the Hydra Delta 6? Is it just a power strip?

It’s the line of conditioners below the Denali line.

For the money I’d rather have a P10 but it is a nice conditioner that shouldn’t add much impedance

After posting, I spoke with a Shunyata engineer and was told that my Hydra Delta 6 is a power distributor and a power conditioner. Big relief.

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Another Approach -

For the 8AWG question -


Welcome back!!


Been a while - thanks - lot of other activities, just had not made the time… good to see you…


@RonP - specified continuous run to the main panel so there would be no misunderstanding.

In my office I have the same set-up as music room because my music room stereo will become my office stereo down the road and using 12AWG pigtail and basic duplex until I move the stereo down the road. Power infrastructure will be there; however, use is today w/ 12AWG pigtail.

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Thank you for taking the time to send me this diagram! I have to say I’m a little envious of your equipment, but we all do what we can.

We are using the same NCF, and from have two lines branching off of the Denali power conditioner, and throughout you are using Shunyata Sigma power cords. Correct me if I have anything wrong.

Line 1: Main Panel => 8 gauge copper wire (40 amp) = NCF (20 amp) => power conditioner (Denali) => power distributor (DR Acoustics Silver Fire) => power supplies (Farads) => components (home entertainment center?)
Line 2: Main Panel => 8 gauge copper wire (40 amp) = NCF (20 amp) => power conditioner power conditioner (Denali) => power distributor (PS Audio Power Plant) => stereo components

Three questions, if I may:

  1. What was behind your decision to run 8 gauge (40 amp) wire from your main panel? Was it to ensure overhead?
  2. What is on the end of Line 1, components for a home theater?
  3. Related, what was behind your decision to branch off of the Denali as you did?
    Thank you again. I’m fascinated
  1. dynamic current and a reduction in resistance from component to telephone pole. You are looking at current capability; look at circular mil area and resistance per foot as opposed to current carrying capability. You want zero ohms between the telephone pole and your device. Anything that impacts that is downside so you want as little as possible, within the bounds of physical and cost.
  2. The diagram explains the devices - aqvox, Giga Foil, Matrix, and N+ (essentially streaming). Got the streaming power away from the PS Audio signal processing chain
  3. The Denali is is used as a line conditioner before the P20 and junction box. The 2000T uses internal infrastructure (wiring) for high dynamic current. Look at the specs between D2000T and D6000T for the rational selecting D2000T vs. D6000T

This approach resulted in a very clean and very dynamic sound stage for my application. Also, the application I have results in only 40% capability of PSA P20 so it is not as load intensive as some systems. I probably would have went a different approach if my system was much heavier of a load. I love the PSA P20 and it is amazing. I also love the Denali D2000T. If I had a choice, I would take the PSA P20. Thank goodness I was not bound by cost.

Here is the system BD if this helps. I use to have an SR Blue plug.

When this diagram goes up, @cardri’s back! LOL, hope things are well!

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Thank you, Richard. I am not all that knowledgeable of electronics when it gets down to the math of it. That said, however, I am fascinated and will take the time to try to understand your responses better. Again, I’m much obliged that you responded with so much information.

All good, also understand there are many ways to set up a system. You can buy a price of gear and try it and if you see results, keep it. There are a lot of knowledgeable audiophiles on this site that will help you with their approach. A lot of sharing here. However, in the end, your decisions should be based on how it sounds in your system.

Thanks, been a while… was very busy with stuff. Hope you are doing well and the summer has been good.

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Hi Cardri, Nice you are back!! The place is not as interesting without you. Looks like you’re quite an electrical engineer. Love your blueprints and schematics. I do have a lingering question for you though. Remember when you sold all your Sboosters for the Farad Super 3? Is the sound quality much better with the Farads? Thinking about trying a Farad Super 3. Thanks.

@cardi great to have you back! I always enjoy and learn from your contributions. They are greatly appreciated.

Yeah - better - I did a full custom so the cost was expensive; $800 each. Cable, fuse… However, loved the SBooster w ultra. If money was really tight I would stick with SBooster w/ Ultra. However, not bummed trading up. Also, I modified the heat sink and feet, thanks to Vern’s @Baldy shop. He does amazing machining. I reduced the thermal footprint by 5F going to a 30mm high black aluminum heat sink. In the world of Super Cap, if you can keep the temps to low 90F your performance years increase substantially. You run them at 105F+ you decrease life. The cool thing about Farad is that they are very custom customer focused and will update and customize all you want. I used a silver epoxy that had low thermal resistivity attaching them.