Power Plant & Fuses, Newbie Questions

I guess some people drive for ever on the same brand/model of tires that came with their car, never upgrading for better handling, traction, comfort and safety.

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For the doubters and naysayers…
Here is a vid with Paul McGowan talking about fuses.

The actual dialogue starts at about 3:58 into the vid…
so take a look …who knows but you might learn something…

https://www.psaudio.com/askpaulvideo/audiophile-fuses/

Best wishes

Thanks Elk!!

I disagree. I have a P15 and have installed a fuse that improves the sound. Please don’t tell me what to do or not to do with my equipment.

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Same goes for me glimmie…just because you like to
pontificate ad infinitum does not make you an authority…

Let alone an authority that I would care to let influence
how I tweak my system…

Best wishes

This extends to so many facets of daily life.

For example, do you only put OEM wipers on your car? Or the original brand of tires?

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The Edcor 4400 transformer mod is a perfect example.

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Every hi end component I’ve ever owned has benefitted from vibration control. Besides, the P3 is the entry-level model with a less impressive chassis then its bigger siblings.

I start by removing the stock feet (reversible!) and putting the component on Vibrapod discs and cones.

The panels are Audioquest sorbothane. They peel off easily if necessary. I cut the panels small (2x5", 2 on top and 2 on bottom) and keep them away from the vents. I actually got this stuff free when Music Direct accidentally included them in an order.

Like I said, I am not replacing the fuse yet. I’m just cleaning the contacts with Caig Deoxit Gold and testing which direction sounds better. Every metal surface corrodes over time, which is why I find that cleaning the contacts in my system every 6 months is essential to keeping things sounding good.

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This is where the old hot rodders hang out. Once you know there may be something to gain it’s hard not to give it a try.

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Well I was trying to be supportive of PS Audio here, no bashing was ever intended. And of course my views are my views. Anyone is free to disagree and do what they want. Yes you do own the equipment.

My point here is these are very high quality products. This isn’t some budget $200 DAC where you are swapping OPAMPS. If the fuses are external, go ahead. My caution is going inside. I would be surprised if PS Audio condones that.

As for the auto analogies, tires or wiper blades is like trying a different power cord on your unit, which certainly is a user option. Going inside and replacing internal fuses is like changing the piston rings on you new BMW for some third party version with big promises of improved performance.

PS Audio has no problem with a customer opening up their products to swap fuses.

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I have never replaced an internal fuse, but would if I were more “savvy.” The P15 fuse is external and many others I replace on components are…

The mods that were done to my DSD DAC are those suggested by the cognoscenti here and the designer and they are bona fide improvements. I’m so glad I had the opportunity to have a modded unit and enjoy it immensely.

Almost anything made for audio can be improved and I’m one who would want improvements. . . audio means so much to me.

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Okay, I successfully removed the fuse and cleaned all the metal contact surfaces with Deoxit Gold. My system sounds a bit “cleaner” now.

I tried reversing the direction of the fuse as some have suggested. Things sounded slightly muted. So, I put it back to the original orientation as this is obviously the preferable one.

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I’m new to modding equipment too. If i can ask, what mods did you do to your Dac? Thanks.

I didn’t do the mods, but purchased one that has the power board mod, the Edcor transformer mod, and the EMI/RF damping mod, as well as a Farrad Super3 outboard power supply. (Which replaced a DS I had in my system almost since it was introduced with no mods, which is now in my headphone system).

I’m not sure how “old” this modded system is and found that I liked it’s sound even more after about 500 hours or so.

To answer the O.P.'s second question, yes I’ve experimented with contact enhancer on the stock fuse. Specifically, Mad Scientist Audio’s Graphene contact enhancer.

http://www.madscientist-audio.com/graphene_ce.html

I didn’t find that applying it to the fuse was the most effective location for its use. That is a very effective contact enhancer and it’s easy to go overboard with it in my experience. It takes experimentation to find the best locations and the P3 fuse wasn’t it, at least in my system. On the other hand, applying it to the male IEC power connector prongs of the P3 was worthwhile.

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Thanks, Photon46.

Just looking at the P3 rear panel, fuse value 2AH, size small (5x20mm), and need confirmation on Slow blow or fast, pretty sure it’s slow, but better if Elk can confirm. BHK Pre is also 2AH 5x20 slow blow which PSA just sent me replacements, (which sound great) :v: hope this helps rob P3 is a Stellar series i believe

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Units marked US and JP, take a 5 amp, 250 volt, 5mm/20mm Slow-Blow fuse.

Units marked EX, GR, UK, and AU, the P3 take a 3 amp, 250 volt, 5mm/20mm Slow-Blow fuse

Rear of P3