I would gladly help you through the update process. I would not use the Plextor no matter what I tried one and it was not any good. Asus is a better option. I have successfully used the adapter for testing purposes but I have the sata and IDE connections on my board.
Do you have a ide input only board ? Sorry but I am trying to look at all of the variables. Is the asus you mentioned with the link work with the ide board? Also the ide drive you mentioned is a cd rom, does this operate well and sound good, Thank you
Thank you for offering to help with the update process. If it is required to get the new dvd drive working, I may attempt it. But if it is not needed I will stay away from it [ less chance of a screw up on my end] lol. I read an earlier post from a member who stated that he removed the sd card and everything functioned correctly. I removed the card and my iffy ide drive is working for now.
You may have had a corrupt image stored on the sd cardâŠit will cause the unit to lock up and not play the disk whenever that disk is inserted into the drive.
You need to use a dvdrom drive if you create and play any high rez disks in this unit.
The ASUS is a SATA drive and will need a plug in converter. The second drive is an IDE drive that will not need a converter. I have not tested these drives, I was merely trying to find drives that you could try. The second drive, at under $15 is not too risky to try. Plus you can return stuff to Amazon. I am just trying to help you source a solution. You never know until you try.
Thank you for the amazon links for the drives you described. I may try one of them or hold out for a new asus ide dvd drive.
You wonât find a new ide drive from any manufacturer. That is a sad fact today.
Maybe a rebuilt unit might come up on fleabay
Hello PWT users I am a new forum member who has just created a thread which is requiring relevant info in 2026, for a PWT MkII, which has a CD Drive drawer no longer opening and when a CD is in place the Buffer does not read the CD. I like this Transport too much to put it to one side and already have a Asus DRW-241ST acquired.
Additionally, while I am hopeful of the PWT being replenished, is there any other modifications known off that can be put in place, to eke a little more from a PWT?
Offered suggestions will be very much appreciated.
JohnnoG
Great choice on the ASUS. Just put that baby in there and spin some discs. That machine doesnât need tweaks, just a new drive every now and then. Enjoy, donât analyze.
Hello aangen - Is this a task that a individual with a limited experience with Electronics, but is good with tools can undertake?
If attempted as a DIY exchange, Photo Records will also be taken of the processes, especially the wiring design utilised by the Factory, for the knowledge to be readily at hand of the reconnections
You tip the DWT upside down and remove a few screws. There are so many videos out there to show you exactly what to do. The drive is your run of the mill computer drive, two or four screws to remove it. The DWT came out before the SATA drives started appearing. If your new ASUS is a SATA drive you might need one of these under $30 adapters.
You MIGHT need it. Worse case scenario I think I have a new copy of the original drive sitting around here somewhere I could send you.
Anyway, after you take the screws out of the bottom you see the drive. A 12 year old could remove and replace it. A 50 year old maybe not. (They would overthink it).
You replace the drive, hook up the cables, and power up before you put it back together. See if it works. If it does, close up and enjoy.
I am willing to help you out.
I looked at the drive you bought. It is a SATA drive and you paid extra for features the PWT canât use. You will need that adapter I think.
If you can take that one back, do so. If not you probably will need that adapter. Iâll search for the one I bought as a spare for my PWT. I can send it to you.
*update⊠Not finding it. I found an excellent drive I bought in 2023 but havenât opened yet.
Just a note to say that this post above is just one example of what Al brings to this forum as far as knowledge, helpfulness and generosityâone reason this is such a great place.
Hi aangen, I have commenced the strip down but am not easily separating the chassis from the casing.
The Service Manual direction of removing base screws and flipping the unit on its side with the Power Inlet at the base, is not making the separation occur with ease.
I would be interested in seeing a Video that covers this procedure, but after an hour searching did not find one on Youtube, is there a Link that I can be directed to that shows the steps to be undertaken?
This certainly now looks like I have got this task as a DIY Challenge, at the age of Sixty and 40ish years with Audio as a hobby, I have not opened up many devices to see under the hood.
Top Cover removed with a good old Thwack, the gentle pressure advised in the Manual was proving to be way too little force, tapping a Screwdriver with a Hammer got the cover moving 
.
The New Drive is arrived on Saturday and got to do the exchange on Saturday evening. There is no need to use an adapter, as the original connections are firring the CD Drive. The original drawer fascia plate is also attached to the new drive drawer.
I have checked the drive works without replacing the High Gloss Cover, hence the Earth connection is not reinstated. After initialisation of the PWT, the drive is reacting to the remotes open drawer and attempting to open, but not letting the original drawer fascia plate clear the main chassis?
Has it been discovered that a slight alteration to the height of the exchange CD Rom has been needed to create a even spacing between the drawer cover and main chassis. My only explanation for the drawer not fully releasing is that a friction is occurring between top of the original drawer fascia and the main chassis? I am considering an elongation of the CD Drives mounting bracket holes, to lower the CD units height by about 1mm (1/32"). This will then create a clearance space all around the drawer fascia.
Any thoughts on this drawer opening being activated but not fully completed as an opening are appreciated.
I should also have stated, the the Silver Metal housing for the new CD Drive needed a modification, as it was not able to be moved forward enough to touch the inner face of the main chassis or align with the main chassis countersink holes for the fastening.
At the drawer end, on the bottom of the side walls, a small notch of approxâ 3mm (1/8") H x 5mm (1/4") L, was required to create the correcting seating to enable the hole alignment for the fastening of the CD Rom to the main chassis.
Some lads donât replace the door facia. Some make a new custom piece. If it interferes with the action of the drawer, it doesnât matter how it looks. You could try a gentle file and remove some of the facia material. Or you could futz around forever trying to attach the internal drive in such a way as the facia fits ideally. That might be the best course of action.
Congrats on doing your first swap!!!
Thank You aangen, the most difficult part so far is the separation of the Gloss Top from the main chassis.
The Drawer is now opening, but does need less friction due to the drawer fascia touching the main chassis.
I have been successfully replaying music this morning, which is a very very pleasing outcome 
.
I am now looking at very quiet running optical units, the ASUS DRW-24D5MT has been looked into.
I will update if this model is used and delivers a quieter operation when the CD is being read.