Yup. Less is more. I am learning that as we speak. I am now down to “one click” adjustments. One can also hear them burning in. Seems to turn out as a good investment.
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I think the point is, despite all the releveling from high to low you point out, that the signal characteristics attributable to the high level power amp is reproduced in the subs. If you take an input from your preamp, you’ll have two competing bass waveforms between your power amp and preamp.
With two subs, you connect one to each high level positive output and float the ground if you’ve got a BHK power amp. That gives you a stereo bass image.
I have an SB-3000.
I see your point Vee, but if I had “competing bass waveforms” I would not need subs in the first place. Or am I wrong…?
The waveforms I’m talking about are the specific sound signature each component in the chain adds or removes to the source. If you were to take a snapshot of the waveforms at each interconnect, the most “final” waveform prior to rendering is the one from the power amps to speakers.
When you add a powered subwoofer, it, too, adds its own sound signature – that may be cold, warm, deep, fast, slow, loose, tight, etc. Using the high level inputs from the power amps is just a means of trying to get the closest match in audible sound to the mains by ensuring the power amps’ sound signature is passed into the subs.
It’s also important to select a powered subwoofer with similar sound signature to the main speakers so that reproduction can be as consistent as possible.
But then again, we’re really talking about a reasonably difficult to localize sound – bass.
So long as that audiophile recording of a cello sounds like an acceptably accurate cello to you – that’s all that matters.
Personally, I have tried three methods to connect my RELs:
- High level
- Low level
- JL Audio CR-1
I’m currently connected by High Level, but found the CR-1 path gave me the most options to integrate my subs and create a level frequency response at the low end (basically allowed me to pull some bass away from the mains and redirect it to the subs) – it’s still something I toy with from time to time as I “mix it up”.
Gotya Vee, thanks…!
I’m completely unfamiliar! For RELs you’re saying.
Correct. The CR-1 takes the preamp output and adds a variable crossover to split the signal between the main speakers and the subs. It’s all done in analog and really quite flexible.
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Why limit yourself to these choices:
Abacus Dolibass 12 HT:
Abacus Dolibass 12HT
EU built driver (Italy, if I am not mistaken), German built electronics and cabinet (closed design). FET based Dolifet amp, unique design, no class D, servo driven.
Punches in the EUR 3000 to EUR 4000 price range, because you can order them direct from the manufacturer in Northern Germany. Fun thing is you can pick them up and get to meet the designer owner and or a tour, same like at PS Audio, should be no problem from the Netherlands.
Velodyne are still around, their servo driven subs are second to none, undoubtedly the best.
The DD Plus 10 is currently for sale with huge discount, but still a bit above your mentioned budget:
Velodyne DD+ 10
ELAC and Canton subs are truly more competitive to the likes you mentioned.
Best regards, Rudolf
Same here!
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Same here. I have a pair of them.
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We have Martin Logans in two systems and love them…
Love my SB-3000.It replaced a Sunfire true subwoofer Signature.
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You are switching from hybrid to all tubes or are you adding a new system?
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No matter what, it will look a lot better than anything I own.
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for those who have a pair of SVS subs, are you just using a single RCA from each channel of the amp’s pre-outs? (And then into the LFE input on each sub?)
This is how I have it from my Parasound HINT6 into my pair of wee little Cambridge Audio Minx subs. But I’m gonna upgrade to the SVS SB-2000 pro’s, and just wanna make sure I’ve got all my ducks in a row when they arrive.
I have been using the SVS PB-3000 with great results. Note that it is dedicated to below 55Hz.