Ripping vinyl using the S/PDIF Digital Output of the Nuwave Phono Converter?


#1

Is there a way to use the S/PDIF output of the NPC to rip vinyl? I see that the Sound Blaster Z card has a TOSLINK input (in addition a TOSLINK output). I’m wondering if I could get a converter from S/PDIF to TOSLINK and then record using Vinyl studio on the PC via the TOSLINK input. Has anyone tried that? Would it be better/worse than USB? Any advise/comments/warnings?


#2

Yes it will work, but my experience with sb drivers is getting bit perfect recordings can be tricky.

Anyone know any other way of getting spdif/toslink into a pc perfectly without using a desktop pc w/ sb ? What if you only have a laptop? Toslink 2 usb pc-in would be great but I haven’t found a way.


#3

Agree on the SB driver issues - but there are other alternatives such as HT | OMEGA Claro Halo 24-bit 192KHz PCI which has no reported driver issues I could find.

Do you think a spdif to toslink converter would add any coloration to the sound. Most of the ones I see are $15-$30 units that most people buy for tv/sound bar applications - not audiophile level. However, since both spdif and toslink are digital I’m hoping its not a real problem


#4

Shouldn’t be, digital 2 digital, so should sound the same.


#5

Looking back, a primary reason for starting this thread was to see if I could get electrical isolation between my computers and the Nuwave phono converter. We have frequent power flickers in this area and so I have my computers on UPS. Since the power for Nuwave will be the wall outlet (regenerator not in budget this year), I’m worried that a stray voltage induced on the usb cable (from either end during a power flicker) might take out the computer or Nuwave usb interfaces. Am I being too paranoid about this?


#6

I thought that I had posted this when you put it up. These power problems, are they predictable? Stormy weather?
Can you afford a Dectet? Or just a decent power strip when recording? Some run
optical cables with Ethernet, but I am not aware of anything for USB.

When I wanted to rip it some vinyl, I already had a phono preamp, so I bought a HRT Linestreamer+.
As important as the input can be, a good program is most important.
I use Vinyl Studio, it has a bit of a learning curve, but once mastered, is quite easy.
Rather than waste money on a card and or adaptor try using the USB input. Just get a decent USB cable, something like an AudioQuest Cinnamon would be fine.
I see no benefit in changing cable protocols. I think it could create problems.
Remember when you are adding and adjusting the track breaks to get rid of the lead in noise and the same at the end of a side. Something like a Q-up is nice to have as it will end the recording, and protect your stylus from unnecessary wear.


#7

Thanks for the advice. I’ll look at the Dectet or similar unit next year or maybe, if my old Marantz 7 pre dies, buy a new Stellar pre and a regenerator.

I started to look at the complexity of the coax to TosLink and although I convinced myself it would work, it would have been expensive and I couldn’t convince myself all the components would be as good as the Nuwave. So I bought a Carbon USB cable and when I’m not ripping, just unplug it. Chose the Carbon cable because there is a ton of RF around here. I counted 40 routers last time I ran WIFI-Analyzer, at least 8 of which had 5 bars (max), I can see 12 on my phone right now, both 2 and 5 gig. Figured with the Carbon, I’d be buying a little extra RF protection.

In some ways, I’m a little irritated that you need to buy a special cable. I would have preferred to spend the extra money on a high quality phone amp with ADC, a 500GB SSD, and an ethernet connection. The theory being that then the unit could rip directly to the SSD, the “real-time audio cable” would be imbedded in the board, and I could access the SSD just as iTunes transfers pictures to/from my iPhone. I could retrieve the files and then let Vinyl Studio do its cleanup and send the cleaned up files to my NAS. But alas, couldn’t find anything like that (at least of the Nuwave quality). And for the record, I’d like to see the same trick pulled with a DAC. Rather than transfer real time audio around, just stuff the entire playlist onto the DAC on a terabyte SSD (in bit perfect form), and then let Ted’s DAC do its magic. I suppose there are at least 100 engineering reasons not to do that but I can dream can’t I? I’d buy one of those tomorrow if PS Audio made it.


#8

The Carbon is a good cable, it is what I use from my laptop to my DAC.
As far as I know, there aren’t many phono preamps with built in ADC. I think if you have a network, you might be able to plug an external USB hard drive in to the router and run with an app on your phone. I just use an AQ Jitterbug, and the Carbon cable to my DAC. I have been using the trial version of Audirvana, as it works perfectly with Tidal. The Tidal desktop player has a lot of bugs.
If you need any help with Vinyl Studio, just send me a PM.


#9

For version 10, Vinyl Studio changed pricing models into Standard ($25) and Pro ($45).

  • The Pro model includes “spectral view” - is this a useful feature? Most of my vinyl was purchased in 1960s/70s and “well used” (to put it kindly).

  • The Nuwave outputs DOP so does this mean I’ll need the Pro version solely because its the version that supports DSD?

  • Nit question: what are the “CUE” sheets Vinyl Studio keeps talking about?

  • Does Nuwave work reliably with Windows 10 (drivers etc.)? I have the option of Win 7, Win 8.1 and Win 10 but would like to know if drivers support all of them.


#10

I am not familiar with the latest version of Vinyl Studio, but after looking at it, I would go with the pro version, as the lite version is lacking a lot of features.
Spectral view helps when editing.

I would only consider recording perfect LPs in DSD or DOP, as you can’t edit DSD. I would record at 24/96.I would also consider getting a record cleaning machine.

I don’t own a Nuwave, so you will have to ask someone who does.

I downloaded the VS manual and still don’t know why you would want Cue Sheets, it might have something to do with classical music.
I think I paid $39, so the the pro at $45 is a fair price.