Shunyata Everest vs P20

Shunyata recommends their non-NR cords to their conditioners, so I guess the same would hold true for regenerators. I’m wondering if their XC cord variants would be a better fit?

Currently I’m using PS Audio AC5s (fine for a 240V cable me thinks). I use AC5s for the DSs and my BHK250s which get their power from a P10. I think any good cable should be fine.

Owned a power plant years ago. Took it out when I found it pointless. Now have Shunyata Hydra Alpha. Changed from Shunyata Delta to Puritan Ultimate cables last week as they are more practical, also possibly sound better.

Thinking about the Puritan 156 as it is half the size and will be cash positive to the Shunyata. Puritan is nearby, I bought the cables direct from them and if I ask nicely they may loan me a 156.

A few ears who’ve worked in the industry that I have grown to trust have written on other websites that power quality varies and there is no one cure that’s best for everyone. It doesn’t help we all hear differently and have preferences. But, I think it’s interesting that an article about house party audiophile dance events in London found that power was an important thing to consider. This was in Resistor Mag (online) recently. Power improvements have easily been the biggest improvements I’ve made in my system.

Anyway, I have Shunyata Delta XC power cable feeding my P12 and I think it’s outstanding - there is a sparkle or what perhaps other reviewers say is a kind of “lit up” quality to the audio space. Words don’t really work here so take that with the entire salt shaker. But, I am keeping things this way because the XC replaced the Venom NR and while that was excellent, I do think XC is more lively, more dynamic, and has a faster leading edge with transients. I like how it evens out the presentation of sonic elements as well - things don’t stand out inconsistently as they might with other products.

I have Venom NR from my P12 to DAC and preamp. I also have tried XC vs Venom NR on an integrated amp and again, XC is more lively than NR. I’d opt for XC if I were buying again.

You mileage will undoubtedly vary, but enjoy the journey…

Interesting topic

As no manufacturer makes the ultimate solution…

Q: Have anyone tried one or more of the following combos

a) Wall - Isotek Titan - Power Plant
b) Wall - Isotek Syncro - Power Plant
c) Wall - Isotek Syncro - Isotek Titan - Power Plant

I´m interested in thoughts on both using the power plant for only the front end and using the power plant for amps.


  • Isotek Titan is a 82 db noice canceling filter that is designed to be used for power amps, cleaning the power via parallell filters to harm dynamics as little as possible. Its avalible in up to 32 amp versions.
  • Isotek Syncro is a tech to rebalance the sine-wave and cancel out DC. Its avalible both in cables and in separate boxes enabling the user to chose his/hers prefered power cables.

My theory

  • Isotek Titan prior to a power plan might be the best present solution to filter prior to a power plant (only a Stromtank might improve up on that solution)
  • Isotek Syncro is one of the best performing DC-solutions out there. As a power plant it self is prone to be affected by DC on the line (even if it includes some sort of dc-blocker) one could get added benefit.
  • By first purchasing a Titan, one can later choose to feed the amp via a power plant or directly from the Titan (leaving sources to the power plant)

As a last comment
Car batteries and other similar power storage devices are getting down in price. Every new solarpanel and electrical car out there creates noice on the power line. In 10-15 years time every hifi power cleaning solution will be off the grid, even in the sub USD 1000-market.

So, have any one tried the above mentioned combinations?

Ah, yes, I love the smell of roasting PCB’s :wink:


I just checked the present marketprice for car-litium-ion batteries with deep-cycle performance (ability to release lots of energy fast). The present marketprices is approx 100 USD / 1kw.

This means that the biggest versions of Stormtank contains batteriers that a manufacturer like PS Audio can purchase for USD 500.

Seems appropriate for some one to start manufacturing next gen off the grid power cleaner and push down prices. PS Audio have got a competitive advantage in their 1bit DSD sine wave build up tech.

So, this means that Ive almost placed an order if PS Audio makes one at a decent selling price.

I have option B, Isotek Syncro 3 before P20. I was having trouble with a slight hum in the home theatre aspect of my system and thought the Isotek might cure it.
I liked the sound I was hearing so I kept the system with the Isotek in it.
I thought it was magical with a SR Purple fuse in the P20.
It really laid out the instruments in the soundstage beautifully, and instruments appeared out of ‘blackness’. I had this scenario for only a few days, until the ‘new king on the block’ arrived, the AudioMagic M1 fuse for the P20.
Although the M1 gave more ‘meat on the bone’ with better bass, it lost the Purple’s ability to lay out the instruments so clearly, I still miss the aspect and in fact may go back to the Purple, (which I had subsequently sold).

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I’m so happy to be off the power regenerator upgrade path, and happy I got off the treadmill at the p3.

The Rega osiris is so good it doesn’t need power regeneration. With my class d NAD c298, yeah the power regenerator added a depth and a forwardness.

On a magical amp like the Osiris, a p3 isn’t needed.

This is just based on my limited experience and I don’t know if this applies to other amps.

I think there are a number of variables besides the electronics that might necessitate power regeneration or conditioning. You may have a great amp…but if you are in a large condo building or an electronically noisy neighborhood grid you still might benefit from some regeneration or conditioning.


I wouldn’t damn all Regenerators based on a P3 experience. It is the absolute bottom of the line. Thinking there is any relationship between the P3 and the P20 would be lazy thinking at best.


That is fair

I would also say though, in my biased experience, that a 25 year old monster power strip and the wall is a better combination with a Rega Osiris (at my house, in my room, with my speakers) than a ps audio p3 regenerator.

So then do you buy an amp based on the regenerator? Obviously not.

It made sense, for me, to get off the regenerator upgrade path.

Would a p20 be better than my monster power strip and wall? Probably, possibly, I don’t care to find out.

Whoa whoa… WHOA.

This is not the place to discuss keeping money in your pocket…


Yeah but if you can invest in other parts of your system it’s a win

Your amp’s power supply might well be sufficient in capacity to not need help.
I would try eliminating the power strip also. See how it sounds going straight into the wall.
And no, there is no comparison between the P3 and the P20.


The Osiris has a power draw of 560 watts, no surprise it sounds better without the P3. Doesn’t seem it’s the right tool for the job.


Sorry friend had to jump…

You rate regenerators based on an experience with a power amp whose consumption is greater than the P3’s capabilities. How does a 25 year old Monster power strip even come close to the tech of a P15 or P20?..

Having used similar power strips also old…they don’t measure up to the improvement
a P5 then on to P12 currently a P15 brings to my system…

Truly do wish a great audio journey !!

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I would also note that it seems like the amplifier is the component to benefit the least from power regeneration. Source components and preamplifiers seem to benefit more from regeneration than amps.


I agree with you that the Rega Osiris and P3 weren’t a good match.