Silversmith Audio Fidelium Cables

My new Silversmith Fidelium speaker cables continue to reside in their carton. Other priorities. If I like them the Fidelium XLRs are a possibility. I have been in touch wit Jeff regarding their availability.

I have said it before and will say it again. Performance bang for the $ is large with the Fidelium Speaker cables.

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Can longer Fidelium speaker cables be split and reterminated?

Do you have one pair connected to each of the outputs of the M1200?
How would you do it if you only had one set of output connectors instead of 2?

If you look at the build: likely! Next is to either send it back to the factory, or do a DIY termination. What I see is a sturdy plastic-like termination (heat)fixed to the plastic cover of the flat cable.
I didn’t yet look for YT howto clips. :wink:

Yes, I have one pair connecting to each out terminal. For one terminal you can use only one pair with their jumpers at the speaker end. You should check with Jeff.

I may list their jumpers for sale soon since I don’t need them anymore,

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There is no termination on the Fidelium cables. It is a solid ribbon cable and there is a u shaped notch cut out at the ends to make the connection.

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Thanks Paul. Just to be safe I sent an email to Jeffrey. I imagine this would be something best left for him to do.

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Yes. Without a doubt! I would not attempt!

Turns out the thin ribbon is working against a gas tight connection with my SabrinaX binding posts. Sadly, by design the custom Wilson binding post nuts do not bottom out against the termination bed with no spade or wire inserted. The thin Fidelium ribbon/Wilson binding post is working against me in this regard. I am working with Jeff Smith on a work around. For now I am seeking copper ring tongue terminals to use as a shim.

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Herbie’s Audio Lab sells speaker terminal washers that might work out.

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These won’t work?

Thank-you, GTK!
Several sets are on their way. :wink:

Nope, I have them and they are the same thickness as the ribbon cables. Shims are what I need. Jeff may be able to work something up for me. In the mean time lonson’s suggestion will get me by. Saved me a trip to my local Grainger. Home bound with a most nasty chest cold. Stereo sounds terrible as my head feels like it may explode at any moment.

Jeff just got back to me and recommends a non-metallic shim, either rubber or nylon. PTFE came to mind as an option, but the Herbie’s shims are incoming. I may seek a handful of PTFE 1/4” washers as well. Odd that my Wilson binding posts do not bottom out.

McMaster Carr

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Too bad the adaptors are not working; I really like them to be used for amps so the wide cables would not jam together.

Donald, can you post any photos of your speaker cables? Do they curl up and is it bothersome?

Speaking with Jeff the adaptors serve a different purpose. I have the ribbon bi-wire jumpers as well, and considered them as a shim, but it would be a rather clumsy solution.

There is an interesting thread regarding Silversmith Fidelium speaker cables on the AudioGon forum. Jeff directly addresses a handful of questions which some may find helpful.

Fidelium SC - AudioGon


From Jeff:

Thanks for your comment. Your concern about the ease of connection is understandable and fairly common. Obviously, the connection is a radical departure from the norm but the challenge is very easy to overcome and the sonic benefit cannot be overstated. Once you feel the label ends of the cables in your hands, you will likely see how the connection is easier than it looks. The label ends are similar in stiffness to a generic business card. You can try a simple experiment at home to see how it works. Cut a 1/4 in notch in the middle of the short side of a business card (it’s only a 1/4 smaller than the 2 1/4 in wide Fidelium). Next, bend and hold the card in a ‘U’ shape and simply slide it in to your binding post. The Fidelium cables have a 3/4 in x 3/4 in square area of metal exposed on only one side for the connection and that exposed area will fit almost entirely under the binding post nut. The rest of the label area is entirely nonconductive so it is not an issue for the labels to overlap or touch an adjacent post. One of my customers shared a photo of the Fidelium cables attached to his Convergent Audio Technology amps. You can see the binding posts are very close to each other and that the inside edges of the labels are flared up and rest against each other. That blog entry can be viewed here: Customer Feedback - The Silversmith Audio Group

Another option with tightly spaced binding posts is to enter from the opposite sides, instead of side by side. The labels are so flexible that you could even insert both cables between the binding posts and flare out the ends to make the connection. That’s how I connect mine.

For those who have the fully plastic encased binding posts with only a narrow slot for a traditional spade, I do have an option for an adapter made from the same foil that will facilitate the use of the Fidelium with those posts but will not have any sonic degradation. As the review stated, I also have a unique option for a bi-wire adapter that will alleviate the need for two sets of cables but still provide exactly the same bi-wire sound quality.

Lastly, this cable is so durable that there is no risk of tearing, so don’t be afraid to bend or twist as needed to connect them in your individual situation. The method of holding the label end in a ‘U’ shape should make the connection simple. For best results, I recommend attaching the cables with the conductive surface down, facing the component and tightening the binding post nut down onto the nonconductive side.

Feel free to contact me directly if you have any questions at all.

Best Regards and happy listening!

Jeffrey Smith
Silversmith Audio

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Fidelium SC connecting to PSA components very well, and I use two pairs with homemade cable lifters:



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Very nice indeed!

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