Swiss Digital Fuse Box, the fuse reinvented

Would be interesting to know how critical the power cord that goes between the wall outlet and the Fuse Box is.

It makes the most difference! Spend at least $8K on it.
And $8K on the other side.

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FWIW, according to the SWFB purveyor, if you have to choose among lesser PCs, put your ā€œbestā€ one between the SWFB and the kit it is serving.

I donā€™t have near term plans to do a lot of testing of different cable configurations but I am sure I will get around to trying different combinations soon enough.

After things settle in and I am used to the ā€œnew normalā€ sound of the system, my first iteration will involve swapping the Brass Sluggo in for the Copper Sluggo.

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That makes sense, but we all know what a difference a power cable makes on a P20.
I would think the cable between the fuse and the gear would be most important.

I wish you could try subbing out the wall to fuse PC with something that can handle current, but nothing fancy. Or just try and ordinary ā€œit came in the box with the gear and I never used itā€ cable.

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I started a thread on the Decware forums about my experience with the FUSE BOX a week or so ago.

You are hearing the same things I am.

I made a rig to burn in the Sluggos faster using a FryCorder2. The copper Sluggos changed for the better after 48 hours getting cooked by the FryCorder2.

If I could only say one thing about adding the FUSE BOX and sluggo it would be ā€œsilenceā€. Noise I didnā€™t know was there disappeared.

I also noticed that the attack is much more abrupt. Similar to watching a turn signal on an old car with incandescent bulbs vs. LED bulbs.

I use a full loom of Snake River Audio cables. I tried adding a Belden BAV before the FUSE BOX. SQ did take a hit. I also tried a BAV before and after the FUSE BOX. I agree that if you have two cables put the better one after the FUSE BOX. Really you will want two nice PCs, one before one after.

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Just in case I was not clear, this is what my SDFB contact suggested as well.

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You were clear.

It would be interesting to see if swapping out the SR Tesla T2 (with active shielding) for a lesser cable had any impact. (See @groovysauce post on this above.)

That said, I did not discern a consistent, material improvement to my system when I added the SR PC to feed the P10.

In fact, my experience with better PCs (and some toe-dipping in the shallow end of the fuse pool) has left me pretty much nonplussed.

Donā€™t get me wrong, my system has been sounding as good or better than it ever had; but I attributed the good sound to be, at least partly, the cumulative result of the gradual replacement of stock PCs with reputable, well-regarded upgrades I have been accumulating on the used market.

This SDFB is a different animal, resulting in immediate, discernible changes (for the better) in my system.

Is adding this in place of the SR Quantum Fuse (Orange, I think - it came with the used P10 when I bought it), like getting new speakers or a better DAC/the proverbial component-level upgrade?

No. But to my ears, the changes wrought are clearly audible. Unless problems develop, Iā€™ll probably explore using one of these specified for the DS DAC (MK I).

I remain a bit of a PC agnostic due to my personal experience. That is no longer the case with regard to the potential impact of a fuse (or lack thereof).

Cheers.

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Thatā€™s a good, succinct descriptor.

During my somewhat limited listening session last evening, I was particularly struck by the ambiance, decay of certain percussive notes and relative silence between brief moments of attack/ā€œenergyā€ that I had simply never noted before.

Thanks for the additional feedback. Iā€™ll try to find your posts over in the Decware forums.

Regards.

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Hereā€™s the thread over in Decware land if you havenā€™t looked for it yet:

https://www.decware.com/cgi-bin/yabb22/YaBB.pl?num=1677858218/37#0

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No doubt better power cords make a difference, but I think that kind of money would be better spent on upgrading a component. Of course if money is no issue, max out both.

Just finished reading itā€¦

Thanks Lon.

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Question (perhaps a dumbo one) for you scotte1ā€¦what if instead of the sluggos taking the place of you SR Orange fuseā€¦you just kept the SR Orange fuse in place instead of a sluggo?

My thinking is that the SR Orange graphene based meltwire fuse is a much better conductor
and more able to pass what the SDFB is doing for your systemā€¦

If possible give it a shot see how it doesā€¦

Thanks scotte1

Best wishes

Oh yeah scotte1 just like going uptown and bringing back all new upgraded gear :+1: :+1:

Bets wishes

Seems completely counter to the concept and design to meā€¦

I am no expert, but I believe the magic is is in opening up the current flow; and keeping fuses in the signal path strikes me as counter productive.

:man_shrugging:

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Do the sluggos fill the place of the fuse itself?

If so the sluggos may present a current limitation over the SR Orangeā€¦

Myself I donā€™t know eitherā€¦just guessingā€¦hoping for a 3 pointerā€¦from downtown

Best wishes

Yes.

And, I suspect the Sluggos offer less resistance than the fuses they replace.

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May be well worth the experiment and give it a shotā€¦

Best wishes

I wonā€™t be doing soā€¦

Respectfully yours.

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Respectfully back to you as well

Best wishes

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