You can probably get by using a slightly lower rated fuse. The most that can happen is it would blow prematurely but I wouldn’t use a fuse that has a higher rating. You can burn out a circuit if there is a electrical surge. Best to use the fuse with the correct ratting.
Usually these ratings are based on rule of thump, and there are wiggle room within some bounds and still keep the device protected. I’ll try to email PSA for their thoughts.
Does anyone know what the correct fuse would be for a P12 PowerPlant?
Thanks.
I use a SR Blue small 5x20mm T250v 5a fuse for my P12 which is 120v. I think you use a 3a fuse if you have a 230v unit. Sounds not bad with the SR fuse.
I took advantage of the 3 for 2 sale that Synergistic ran. That brought the unit price to $107.
I first replaced the stock fuse in my Pass preamp. The difference was immediately enjoyable.
Three days later, I replaced a HiFi Tuning fuse in my DMP. Same happy result.
A couple days later, I replaced a Blue in my DSD. I noticed no difference there.
I put in an order for 2x 2amp and an 1 amp for my BHK Pre and BHK250, as well as the DSD. Will report back once I got sometime with them.
Thanks @waymanchen11, 120v here also.
Looking to take advantage of the 3 for 2 sale.
Yes. DS DMP ARC Ref 40 and six in my tube amps. Stunning. Nine Orange fuses are the best I’ve heard.
I installed 2 Orange fuses in the DSD Sr (one for each of the digital and analogue supply). Oddly, whereas the DSD circuit board specifies both fuses as 1 Amp, the PSA stock ceramic fuses which I removed were 3.15A on the digital side and 1A on the analogue side. I also installed an SR Orange 5A in my ‘vintage’ PSA Powerplant 300.
As far as listening experience goes, ahead of installing the SR Orange fuses I replaced the spiked feet of my Unision Research Max2 speakers with Herbie’s Giant Fat Gliders, which change gave a mixed result. The Gliders sharpened up the bass, by reducing room effects, but created an unpleasant separation of the highs from the body of the music like a disembodied head. The speakers have a switchable high end roll off which in the low position tamed the flyaway high frequencies. Even so, I’m not sure I like that outcome. The main benefit of Herbie’s Gliders was improved 3D soundstage, possibly a result of the high frequency boost.
So now, with the Orange fuses in the DSD (with a couple of hours of burn in only), things gets really interesting as
the disembodied head appears to have been reintegrated. I can enjoy listening with the speaker roll off in the high setting and I’m back in my happy place. I need to let the SR Oranges burn in and then also go back to the speaker spikes and decide whether to keep or return the Herbie Sliders (generous 60 days return policy).
One other item in my Christmas stocking of upgrade goodies and worth mentioning as an unequivocal success is the HAL-O III stabilizer (also from Herbie’s Audio) which I placed on the Western Electric 422A Rectifier in my integrated 300B amp. Its very simple to A/B test as the damper can be slid on and off the tube while the amp is on. It improves focus in the vocals and easily worth the relatively small expense. I also added tube dampers from Herbie’s to the preamp section valves, but couldn’t really hear any significant difference there.
The ‘analog’ fuse in the DS is not connected to anything.
Thanks for that, so that means PSAudio installed a 3.15A fuse on the digital side, which is the active current for the entire machine. I can send my excess fuse back for a refund, thank you kindly, sir!
The 3.15a fuse in fuse block 2 is unused. Pas undoubtedly just stuck a fuse in there to hold the fuse cover on.
The Orange fuse appears to me, as well to be miles ahead of the previous generations of SR fuses. The last gen I used was the black. I didn’t go with blue. Orange makes black sound off kilter actually from my old recollection. However my system is also very much different than it was when I used black so perhaps my memory of the black is also suspect. My last fuses I had were AM Ultimate Beeswax throughout my system. Nine of them. When I sold my two P10’s and went Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR they didn’t play well in the same sandbox together. So I went back to SR with the Orange fuses and everything plays well now.
This is why I have fuses for sale in the marketplace.
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I put AM Bee Waxes in both my P12, and my P3, and there was a very discernible improvement, especially in instruments like cymbals and pianos. Greater attack (without harshness), more air, more involving. The differences were not as dramatic as putting a Bee Wax in my Cocktail Audio X45 Pro, but more than I expected, and imho, well worth the money.
upgrading fuses makes sense to me, although I’m not an expert. But, to me, it seems that tiny filament in the cheap fuses would be more subject to microphonics than audiophile fuses with thicker wires. And in a Bee Wax fuse, I see how the wax can further dampen out microphonics.
Hi Audiophilehi, any update? Thanks.
Yes…so I replaced the stock fuses in my PSA P15, Bryston BDA-3, and my Gold Note PSU-10 with the SR Orange fuse. I replaced them one at a time in the above order and listened for a few days before replacing the next fuse.
The replaced fuse in the P15 made for a lower noise floor and took a little bit of the edge off listening to digital. I didn’t really notice any difference in soundstage or depth in the recordings. Still a worthy upgrade.
As for the Bryston BDA-3 here’s were the upgraded fuse excelled. It was very close to listening to my analog setup. I really didn’t hear any of the digital hash/edge I was accustomed to on most digital recordings. Everything just seemed to get bigger and quieter at the same time. There was more detailed Soundstage and layering. More air around strings and horns. Bass had more punch to it as well. Definitely a worthy upgrade.
Last but not least was the Gold Note PSU-10. Pretty much the same as the BDA-3 minus the digital comments. Another worthy upgrade.
If I had to choose which order to replace the stock fuse with the SR Orange fuse if you can only replace one it would be:
1-Bryston BDA-3
2-Gold Note PSU-10
3-PSA P15
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did you audition the SR Orange fuse in the P15 in the two possible directions?
If so, which was the winner:
writing going into the P15 ?
or
writing going out of the P15 ?
Thanks
Not yet. Fuses are still burning in currently writing going into the P15.
Anyone changed the fuse in a Melco Audio music library/server? Thanks.
I’d like to hear the answer to that as well - I’ve looked inside my Melco N1Z and both fuses appear to be permanently installed, not removable. Unless I’m missing something…