True, I was “advised” to connect the 1.25KW directly to the wall socket if I intend to listen to the system at high volumes.
I currently use it (the P20) to power the DSDMK2 and the MEN220.
I have in mind, however, to get another one for the AV system in the tavern (still in its infancy):
Very nice HT setup though I don’t recognize equipment.
I have never had the single P-20 shut down playing 2 channel music if operated on its 20 amp input. It will keep up with the load even if pegging 1.2 KW and some 2KW peaks.However power cord length can get costly. This mine is in between amps. I have never seen the MC1.25 KW power guard lights flash on. My MC1000s would light if driven that hard on music.
You would like sound of amps plugged into P20 at sine wave. Multiwave not so smoot, might as well use the wall power.
Monitor Audio Platinum PL500 2G
Marantz AV10 (AV processor)
Marantz UD8004 (universal player)
Halo by Parasound JC5
Halo by Parasound A21+
Halo by Parasound A23+
Pioneer Kuro (50 inch plasma tv)
Music Tools ISOsquare rack
Music Tools SPIKE-HULL II
Neotech The Amazon-ITX
AQ Thunderbird 48 HDMI
Furutech wall socket
Thanks for the clarification, amazing! 
I agree with you.
The choices are great in the HT setup. I am sure it gives a lot of wows.
I can no longer stand going to public theaters anymore to watch movies the sound quality is so harsh, not natural, and has electronic digital edge as well as loud. You should try one of the McIntosh HT processors with RoomPerfect. Over here they go quite cheap after a year or two and they still are excellent two channel capable preamps. You get multiple MEN20s for pennies on the dollar in one unit. The NEO6 music mode is like being in a dance club. It also lets you tailor crossovers based on speaker size. I suppose Parasound is as capable, but I am impressed with how McIntosh integrated the menus and brought Lyngdorf in. The RoomPerfect measurement sweeps take awhile though since each speaker must play the sweep multiple times in different locations.
could not agree more. Last one I tried was Dune. Yellow/orange Exit lights washed out both bottom corners of the screen. Sound was bad until 5 min and them someone noticed and hit a switch or something and it locked in. crowds etc… guess I am old and hate crowds now. Atmos/Anthem that can utilize my 2.1 side with a push of 2 bypass buttons is awsome.
Exactly…
I completely agree. Pumped-up and super-compressed audio stuff that makes your ears bleed. This is not quality but noise!
Consider that the Marantz AV10 will be used to upgrade the current MX123-8K (which is based on an older Marantz AV 8805A).
However, I remain of the opinion that an MX180 can beat them all (based on a Lyngdorf MP60 2.1).
Truly excellent software, there’s no doubt about that.
They are very detailed and more natural in the low frequencies.
Great dynamics.
Yes, I remember having to move the microphone about ten times in my untreated environment (in the past).
I’m happy we all think the same way.
Unfortunately, very often we try to exaggerate in an attempt to attract the “fashionable mass”.
There is a lot of confusion:
it is thought that playing loudly is thought to be synonymous with expensive and audiophile.
In reality, an HT system (even in class A) could excite you with warmth and hyper-detail.
No class D will ever warm my heart.
And then I prefer to rest my ass (sorry) on the armchair of my house… 
Just realizing I haven’t been to a movie theatre since 2019
My last occurrence was Oppenheimer. It was even worse than I remembered. Even a simulated A bomb blast failed to be anything of note with LFE not up to task. . The honking horn drivers driven by class D amps was just plain painful. The voice to screen placements failed to impress if someone talking was not centered to screen it didn’t translate . Knowing the plot and backstory did not help but the sound made it a painful three hours
By the way, the only special effect in that film. 
The cinematography was a good thing. Maybe because it was CG. I tend to dislike CG since most of it looks so jerky and unnatural. There may be some CG that use higher frame rates where this isn’t noticeable . . It seems more noticeable on LED and OLEF screens. I will be sad when my plasma TV finally dies. Hopefully the technology will catch or I can turn off enough features to soften the edges and not be so hyper 3D and find a replacement monitor where a movie doesn’t look like jerky images.
I fully agree with you, I won’t change my Pioneer Kuro (plasma) until it stops working.
Images with natural colors and true-to-life blacks.
When it is time to change TV’s, assume you would go with OLED?
Have terrible burn in with Sony oled after only few months
Had none with Samsung led after 10 years
If your OLED TV is burning in that quickly, you had the OLED light at or near maximum brightness and watched a lot of TV signals with red/green/yellow static images.
I don’t watch tv with static images on my OLED TV and therefore have had no issues with burn-in, and my LG OLED is over 6 years old.
Since LED TV’s are really difficult to burn-in, I watch TV with static images on an LED TV, a Samsung, LOL
brightness level 46/100
news chirons on bottom of screen are significant and permanent
sony response: oled burn is well known and therefore will not cover any replacement or service
Sorry to hear your response from Sony.
There is another setting, OLED Light, which has a big effect on the wearing of the pixels.
The issue with OLED burn in is that the red pixels actually wear out and dim first before the other colors, which is why red static logos are the worst, followed by greens and yellows. A faint gray static logo is least likely to burn in.
LED tv’s are colored by LCD technology, which doesn’t wear out like OLED does.
But the wonderful colors of OLED TV are worth it for me, and just not watching regular tv on the OLED.
primary problem is white logos and bars
agree, other than this oled is great
The LED versus OLED debate is quite interesting. I’m also aware of the burn-in issues with OLED displays (not just TVs, btw, also high-performance computer monitors for production graphics work and gaming). I’m leery of reliability issues. Say what you will about color saturation, etc. I’m sticking with my decade+ old 2K LG LED TV which hasn’t skipped a beat since the day I unboxed it. Ditto my current gaming monitor (I went through two others both of which trashed themselves within a couple of weeks of use). To my way of thinking, a broken display (TV or monitor) is nothing but a brick no matter what promise it holds for better performance. In the case of display technology in general, from my experience ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it (or replace it, my edit)’. Consider yourself having won the lottery if your unit/sample doesn’t crap out before the warranty expires.
