I would have to move the P20 on the front wall for amplification and back again. Maybe within a few weeks, once I’m more familiar with the room and gear, sorry. And a bit less tired frankly, Donald.
I’m not even sure it would be useful for you, because of 2 regens involved in any case.
Don’t do it, save your back! All you are doing is to exchange between sources and amps. It does not make any sense.
Adding another streamer then I will need a new rack, and I also need another cord like Dragon S. If I get the Lumin U2 I can do all these and still come up cheaper than a Arundel N20 (or a Statement for sure). So, this is the plan if we do not spend like crazy in the next two weeks.
Thanks Vmax, you are right, the impact of the room is stunning and requires time for tuning the sound, the ears, the mind and the soul. I’m on the right way but at the very beginning.
Just received 4 more sheets of 3M5050HF I’m planning within a few days to use for some experiments: as we discussed on another thread yesterday.
Still lacking corners on the front wall, rear wall and acoustic diffusion on side walls. I’m very impressed by the new soundstage dimensions and its perfect symmetry, a completely different listening experience, it’s so engaging the way you can feel in touch with the music.
If anyone is still thinking about working on his own room, please consider it the biggest audiophile gift you can do to yourself!
Lots of things to do to make me feel “settled” again but it’s really amazing and an extraordinary opportunity to realize how many mistakes I have done before along the way (and I’ll probably do further more),
The same old unfortunate audiophile coincidence: my brand new reworked unit of MK II is here, and the beta must be sent back. Argh, why right this week?! There couldn’t be a worst moment.
Tomorrow I’ll have to replace the DAC, a new factor of changes will add variables to my equation unexpectedly. Let’s start the breaking in, once again.
I am interested on what differences you hear as you experiment with absorber placement. Evertime I pick up a piece a different experience awaits. The hard part comes deciding what is best.
Tuning ring on the Dragon power cord feeding the P20 is my preferred, indeed.
Secondly the Oreas, placed onto the Furutech NCF boosters, dampening the plugs of the IEC outlets of components and USB/HDMI/RJ45 connectors. Here I would like to use a little piece of 3M absorber between the Oreas and the plugs, like a sandwich so to speak.
I’m curious to use one sheet under the noisy little shelf above the router/MacMini/mouse/keyboard to see if this might act as a barrier (you already said you are skeptically not convinced about that, so my expectations are very low). The same usage under another little shelf, above two Furutech e-TP609NCF feeding various noisy SMPS and plugs of router/lights/MacMini/monitor.
And also on the front wall (see my pics above) sticking some pieces under the little shelves where I use lights close to side and center diffusors.
In all these cases the aim is to find out if the non-adhesive face of the sheet can be a barrier against radiations, even at a few inches of distance from the noisy source, using a larger surface or an entire sheet.
In your experience the 3M7050HF is more effective on one side? As for directionality I mean, is it better facing the absorber sheet towards the noisy stuff on the adhesive side or the non-adhesive one?
Your latest tweak related to the fuse holder will be my next step for sure, if you have the chance please post a pic (I think to understand this placement but the cream pic confused me, sorry).
As you can see your absorbers will keep me busy for a while, thank you again for sharing your clever tweaks, very inspirational!
Because the 3M AB7050HF is Homogeneous and this form of the material has no metal Foil shield layers it hs no difference as which way it lays. You might try a sheet of Aluminum foil lying belowit if you are looking to shield emissions as well as absorb.
Last night I found sticking two layers of material or double thicknessflat above fuse holder more effective than the little top hat since no seams for RF radiation to leak through and enter fuse end cap.
I am leaving tonight, and you guys would not leave me alone! I was hoping I have a nice and quiet vacation away from this forum. But it does not look likely.
@Vmax, don’t you think one inch mdf shielf would provide enough protection between components? I could try the AL sheet on one of mine, I guess.
Luca, I doubt that placing an entire sheet of 3M absorbent on bottom of shielf will be beneficial. It is most effective to use 3M sheet to cover a portion of the transformer and the top of chips inside component. Too much of coverage will result in heavey and murky sound in my experience.
Vmax, have you tried the 3M absorbent on the chips inside your streamer? Do they help also? Both N20 and U2 have display screen so a narrow absorbent behind screen should help too, Right?
Just switched on the new MK II, 2.3.6 179. So I’m starting for the second time the break in.
Guess what? Right out of the box, compared to my previous beta unit well cooked, it sounds great and very similar.
It seems even more unveiled but less textured and warmth, too much cold I suppose.
The real difference I’m noticing is related to the soundstage size, same song/album of yesterday, is producing a smaller image both in width and hight. Very odd.
I was expecting a greater difference but I have to admit it is (first hour on) very very close. Amazing.
Vmax, have you tried the 3M absorbent on the chips inside your streamer? Do they help also? Both N20 and U2 have display screen so a narrow absorbent behind screen should help too, Right?
Yes i covered Processor chip external and other smaller ICs internal to my streamer as well as RaM memory chips and small strips of absorber on the plug in receptacles for memory card. Improvement was easily heard.
The displays of your N20 or U2 i would look for photos of units internal snd whether they are shielded. A strip of absorber to the ribbon cables and IC chips of display cards makes sense.
Luca, I’ve found so far that the MkII burn in is much less of a roller coaster ride compared to the MkI. It just gets “better”, without so much of the “different” left and right turns (and sometimes backups!) the original did.
The odd thing is that my comparison is between two MK IIs. One used since December and the other just hooked up this evening. So I’m comparing the MK II before and after burn in process. A sort of Back to the Future experience.
More investigation is needed due to carpet (still waiting for it, italian artisans… you know) and rear wall furniture that must be completed and filled with books again. Another few days of patience.
Anyhow I was hearing a different background noise, very subtle but annoying, I never heard it before. Just an odd feeling… I was thinking that the culprit were longest XLR UPOCC Iconoclast cables, 28’ vs 6’ is a big difference.
You know when you have a little pebble in a shoe… after an entire day checking all for the zillion time… dang! I had plugged the ethernet cable into the wrong port of the Statement, my bad what an idiot!
I adore Sonus Faber, its handmade finishes and woodwork is very fine.
At first I opted for your same speakers (my wife, despite the size, happily accepted them at home) but having little space in my living room, there was a lot of booming from the rear air port.
I had to opt for the Electa Amator III monitors, which were better suited to my space. Congratulations on your room, it’s looking amazing.