A while ago, I bought an Audio Magic SHD Bees’earwax fuse from one of our forum buddies.
I never really liked it.
But now, in the PST, it’s remarkable. Full and detailed and much nicer than the Orange thing that I also tried today.
For what it’s worth.
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BTW—I still think fuses are just my imagination…
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In your imagination? did not just 30 minutes earlier describe what you hear between the Orange and SHD. I will allow you that as the PST is so very new, a little over 2 weeks. 
BTW have you settled on a connect, which one?
Yes. It just makes no sense to me that a fuse can produce such an effect on sound quality. But I hear it clearly.
Which connect are you asking about? The hdmi or the power cable?
The hdmi, I’m using a Revelation Audio Labs
The power cable, a Kimber Palladium 10.
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I just upgraded from SR Blue to Orange in the PST, DAC and BHKPre. A nice bump
in sound but not on the level of swapping the DMP with the PST. What I noticed most
with the fuses is the quieter background, much like the effect of a power cable with NR,
like the Shunyatas. Got to give it more time and not medicate another itch with bees wax.
Oh, and yes, the RAL hdmi is the bees knees.
Did the new fuse have the same cut off rating, ie. same current/time curve?
Fuses are thermal protectors, they need a certain heat heat to to cut off. Heat is directly related to I^2R, (not to be confused with the I2S interface). The reaction time is related to the amount of heat that the fuse dissipates to its surroundings and mostly related to the size and material properties.
If you put in a fuse with slower reaction time or higher current rating it is very likely that fuse has a lower impedance ®.
But be careful to use the same fuse (current/time) ratings, otherwise it won’t provide the protection that the manufacturer of the unit had in mind.
Another possibility is the way the fuse wire is connected inside the fuse.
We test a lot of fuses and there are huge differences in quality, the tolerances on fuse curves current/time is rather big and sometimes components are not what it says on the packaging.
I don’t know truly, but I believe that aftermarket “audiophile” fuses don’t have the same inrush parameters that standard commercial fuses are designed with. Which explains why they seem more prone to failure when a component is switched on. Just my guess, however.
They certainly do seem to be more fragile.
As I make changes, I like to go back, if I still have the thing that was replaced, just to get some longer term comparative perspective.
This morning, I thought I’d refit my DMP. Going backwards from the PST to the DMP made it clear what a step forward the PST is. Happy.
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I have 9 in components. . . and have never once had one fail.
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Time to buy a lottery ticket, Lon.
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Ha! Been doing that on occasion. . . with nothing but failure.
Really glad you’re enjoying it Ron!
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You can tell by comparing the characteristics on the data sheets of the different fuses.
It could mean that audiophile fuses are having thicker wall enclosures that prevent the heat from being dissipated as fast from the fuse wire as with commercial fuses. Meaning the fuse wire heats up faster, thus tripping faster. It is more safe if the trip faster, only it should not be to the annoyance that the inrush current of the power supply, which should be considered a normal operating condition, trips the (I assume more expensive) fuse. The trip curve on the data sheet of the audiophile fuse should show.
On the other hand, a fuse is a safety device, it there for safety purpose. So I hope those audiophile fuses have reliable trip curves.
If a little fuse can make such difference I can not understand why the better audiophile fuse in not factory mounted on a US$ 6000 piece of Audio equipment.
It would be safer for the user too, since the manufacturer has all measurement values / calculations of inrush currents and maximum trip levels to mount the best fit for purpose audiophile fuse.
Yes, my question as well. Is there an upgrade path for those who have the DMP?
I thought the trade in for the DMP to the PST was $2500.00. The website says up to $1950.00.
Has it changed?
That was probably for the pre-order people. Try calling on the phone and see if you can do better.
Okay. Thanks
Hit the “Trade in and save up to $1950” button.
Then select DMP and it will come up as $2500.
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