@vkennedy61 Happy cake day Vince. Sure glad you are sticking around this place. 
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Maybe @Elk could put a link to the individual files for the MAC users like the last update.
Clarity, no, Iām near the break-in of my Mk2, 500 hours today, and I am not going to try the firmware change yet. My next step is to put in the Audio Magic M-1 fuse Iāve had ready for this unit since February.
My last request for a USB drive for my PWT was to James. In the past I had great (exceptional!) service from Kevin Jackson but Iām not sure if Kevin is still with PSA.
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I am running a 2018 Intel MacBook Air with Ventura 13.3.1. I go to the PS Audio Download site and click on the DSD Download. The .zip file goes to my Downloads folder. I then create a new folder on my Desktop and drag the .zip file to it. I open the folder and double click on the .zip and it is expanded. I then drag each of the .bin files to my FAT32 USB drive. Worked this time and for the previous update.
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Ok Thanks. Iāve dealt and bought thru both. Kevin left a while ago to another company in this industry Iām pretty sure and yes both good guys. So does anyone else here have the expanded files they can send out? Please PM me. Thanks to Lon and all!
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Thanks JK this would be great if they posted these files already ready to download as they are pretty small in todays file sizing realm.
If this works, suggestion to PSA @jamesh maybe it should be added to that text file that is included in the zip file.
Update went pretty smooth for me, other than having to raise both the max volume and the fixed volume back to 100.
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Whether a device shows red or green indicates whether that device followed the all of the PS Audio standard connections for using I2S over an HDMI cable. Still if they didnāt hook up the device present wire correctly thatās not really a big deal. The bug in the Mk II was that earlier even tho you might get sound, the sample rate and the sample width might not be displayed. Now they are whether or not the light is green or red.
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So what does read mean?
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I would also add that if you want compatibility with the MK1 i2s and the previous UI of the MK2ās i2s you need to set the Data & L/R to āInvertedā.
I had to reset maximum level program all the idās and reset the ground lift. It is no big deal but it would have been nice to know and expect to do that.
Yesā¦ Since this UI firmware added features, I think it would be necessary to reset the internal memory of the last UI as these features were unknown.
Like updating the bios of a PC. Most of the time it resets all your settings to default.
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Iām confused about this. With my Mk1 (and so far with the Mk2) I used I2S inputs but (AFAIK) never changed polarity or anything like that. For the new firmware, we have to invert polarity or things will sound different than they did before, even with no previous customized settings?
Yes. For instance Iām feeding the MK2 from my Denafrips Hermes DDC which has been configured for the MK1 DAC. Prior to this UI update everything played perfect just like the MK1 did. After this UI update, the sound was a little off and the MK2 display would display 24bits instead of the 16bit file I was playing. I simply changed the Data & L/R to āInvertedā for the i2s input I am using. This is done in the input menuās i2s polarity settings.
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In general the options have been defaulted to the Mk I configuration. I know that the update was more faithful at preserving some customerās settings than others. This kind of thing potentially depends on what order which updates have been installed in the past as well what the previous options were set to.
I too suspect that just blasting the options to the defaults might cause less confusion. I donāt know for sure how many people would then be upset that they lost their settings.
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In general the GREEN light indicates a good connection to a device. For TOSLink, S/PDIF and AES3 GREEN indicates that a valid signal is being received. i.e. one thatās formatted correctly. For USB it indicates that the USB hardware sees a USB host. For I2S GREEN indicates that there is a cable connected to a device that hooked up the device present line correctly over the HDMI cable. With I2S RED could indicate that a non-standard HDMI cable is being used, but itās much more likely that the device didnāt wire up the āHot Plug Detectā, pin 19.
If you get music, it doesnāt matter. But a GREEN can help people tell if the input is connected correctly.
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Just run the bit perfect test. It will show you if things are correct. It did show that mine was not correct so I made the i2s polarity change as Ted suggested.
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Thanks Jeff! I still have my P20, Stellar Phono Pre, and BHK Pre (soon to be replaced). Even without any of it, the people on the forum are awesome.
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Hmmmā¦.
soon to be replaced Preā¦
This ought to be good. Pretty as well as great sound? What is your short list?