I had to flip my M-1 fuse in my router LPS. But ii was not to sure on fuse holder wiring either.
After about 6 hours it is still doing great. The bass is not as defined yet but if I recall it doesn’t really come together until near end of the fuse burn in. I aam glad you and @dchang05 and @straightwire already decided this was way to go at least with this firmware load.
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It’s only 1s and 0s, I don’t know why you guys continue spending money for stuff like this?!? Ah ah ah!
Happy to know you found a switch that matters (and at a more reasonable cost), I was afraid my PhoenixNET impressions were insane like its price, I’m not alone anymore!
As for fuses, thank you for your advice very useful. I need to wait more time before experimenting but Purple-Statement matching M1-MK II already seems to be the way to go. EU specs of the MK II’s fuse is 500mA, it means that I haven’t one as spare and due to the insane cost I have to purchase a fuse as definitely choice without the opportunity of swapping to compare differences.
I’m frankly surprised about absorbers, I love this @Vmax tweak a lot for the P20 but on the “beta” MK II I took it out for the moment: it isn’t bringing IME a better sound, on the contrary I feel it too much congested in mids, like veiled and muddled and too much pronounced bass, the naturalness is loosing its realism and music is not magic, more “digital” in worst way so to speak. The size of the sheet is probably too large or the burning in process might be the causes. I gave it a try sometimes and will continue doing it some more times to have confirmation before giving up, trusting you and Vmax. Time will tell.
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You need some more, or better, wine 
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Oh this is a wise conclusion finally!
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If memory serves me well we have similar systems, would you please remind me? Thanks.
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Before MK2 reached five hundred hours of break in, it did sound warmer to me. That was the reason I like Purple better then.
It is interesting to hear your experience because the 3M absorbent removed veil and muddiness of mid and bass from my system instead of increasing them (removed even more from vmax’s system I believe). Too much 3M will definitely increase the warmness. In my system the key difference between vmax and mine is the vertical piece that covers the flat cable from screen to board. He uses a wider one and the mid warmness is too much when I used it. I used a narrower piece (1x4) that gave a better balance. Mk2 is more sensitive than DS when using absorbent, too much will reduce the focus instead of helping it.
But you should wait until your unit has more break in time before trying it again.
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I’m afraid you are right. I’ll keep you informed (if you resist staying connected on this forum!).
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I was a late adopter after 500 hours. But you have tubes. Might try a space above the fpga piece. Mine has an arc when zi lay it flat I don’t like it as much. My future plan is a combo AB 6005s and AB7050HF on the footprints of the dual FPGAs
If you’re thinking about what fuse to get for your MK2, I would recommend the M1 over the Purple. With the firmware 178 which leans more on the duller side of neutral, the purple brought back much needed sparkle to the sound, but with firmware 179, which I believe is what you have also, the Purple can be a little over the top in brightness. The M1 is not a dull sounding fuse, it has just as much if not more resolution as the Purple, only thing is it’s balance is more towards the lower midrange and less on the highs.
Yes, our digital front end are similar and I too favor the USB input over the Matrix I2S, The USB is purer and more emotional sounding than the Matrix I2S route. Too many parts and connections can add noise and distortion to the sound, which makes the Matrix sound a lille less natural. The MK2 really shows it since it’s USB input is so good in this DAC.
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Thanks.
I know the M-1 I use in P20, SPP and BHK Pre while I prefer the Purple in PST in a sort of analog vs digital differentiation. Previous experiences bring me to go for Purple in Innuos stuff, without any doubts. This is the reason why the M-1 might be a really balanced solution for the MK II. Yes I have 179FW on my unit but it is still sounding (200 hours) warm and silky, so far from any brightness at all.
Adding that this unit will be replaced from a new one as soon as my importer will receive a new batch from Boulder (within the end of January, probably). Then I’ll restart and compare a second burning in process on a final production reworked unit.
I’m afraid the time for fuses in my case is a bit longer but I’m enjoying so much!
USB vs I2S
I’m preferring USB too. I’m planning to do more comparisons as soon as I receive a new Pink Faun USB cable from Jord, he was very kind and sent me a new cable because my actual one suddenly stopped working hooked to the Matrix (while working well directly connected from the streamer to the MK II). If the new one works, I’ll be able to definitely get my conclusions and share them with you.
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We are very interested how it sounds, because we are looking at the BACCH4Mac Intro* through a mac mini partially because of the USB galvanic isolation in the MKII we have and love.
We are under the impression that there is little to no sonic difference between I2s and USB in the MKII.
If this is true we want to hear how a:
New Mac Mini 16gb / Roon / BACCH4Mac Intro* / USB to MKII DAC system sounds
I am planning to trial Mac Mini to USB to MKII and Mac Mini to USB to Matrix SPDIF 2 LPS powered I2S to MK2 DS.
But it will be BACCH4Mac Audiophile edition with automatic DSP filters created with in ear microphones.not the introduction package. I am going to run the MacMini with built in SMPS and separate 12V LPS too.
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We just ordered the intro package, Edgar is going to set it up himself (remotely). We have never heard BACCH4MAC software, this way if we don’t like it… “no harm… no foul” nothing to send back.
If we like it we’ll take the next step.
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The other Mac packages have a two week period for return. The A/D converter the Babyface FS are on short supply Iwas told from RME in Germany.
I am curious how you end up liking just the software.
I think the package with the MK2 for DAC should sound great but supposedly it’s so different that it makes any stereo signal seem like it is ultra hifi. We chase equipment and cables so much to get great images but having both with this technology must have some merit. I would hope?
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Hi Vmax,
Could you maybe summarize on what MKII locations you put 3M AB7050HF EMI shielding?
And do you think the MKII has the same spreaded in time presentation (= phase correct) in which the music seems to flow as compared to the MKI?
Thanks
Adriaan (a future MKII owner, I now have a heavily modded MKI)
From a few posts above.
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I’d be interested if prat stays intact with the BACCH, as this is often a problem when a lot of processing is done and it’s easily overheard when there’s another characteristic that’s very superior.
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Hi Adrian, I like the music flow with the MKII better. Transients and dynamics are better. I run the Iconoclast SPTPC series 1 and 2 cables. The phases are spot on. The cymbal impacts and decay in mk2 are more realistic.
I just started burn in of M-1 Audio Magic fuse. It needs to open up like the Beeswax Ulltimate SHD in bass yet but mids are wonderful. I could hear it changing already last night
The absotber map are lid positions external. I intend to mount to FPGA devices directly to reduce amount near the capacitors in that area. You may find size over FPGA too much if piece is layng flat direct to lid miy piece has curvature memory so it sits higher flattening to lid I did not like with previous fuse. I will optimize after the M-1 fuse is burned in.
I will let you know. It only takes away and doesn’t ad. I will trial disengaged and with UltraRendu pulling out the inac. As endpoint.
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