Great PC no matter how you cut it. On tubes presents great slam and open staging. I’ve had em in my system since they came out.
Eventually will replace them with my final PCs but not for some time. Still like em overall. Being retired one has to make some adjustments especially now with the insane inflation. 
P20 - anyone planning to test the new SR purple fuse against their Ultimate Premier in a P15 or P20?
Had them since using P10, good cord indeed…
I have spare PCs that retail 4-5x its price, but in regen application prefer~hence still using this old Sigma HC.
Ugh yes inflation! (Almost) everything cost too much nowadays, gotta tread carefully—especially for me where there’s very slim to no chance of trying before buy (rarely dealers here stock their totl/expensive cables), so basically it’s a gambling/pre-order thing.
Thankfully my Amp/Pre came with attached cords, and got those to sources sorted out, so now one to P20 left to worry about/not…
Curious as to what your ‘final’ PC might be…
My final PC is a Grimm MU1.
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@aangen
Final?
Final?
What’s this “final” thing you write about?
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Get one and you’ll understand.
I am at MinnesotaFats house at the moment listening to vinyl on his version if my turntable. Vinyl wins for me no question about it hence Final PC is an easier decision. You kids who don’t believe in Vinyl are just fine. No big deal.
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uhhh, I thought we used “PC” as an abbreviation for power cord.
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Yes the final, final, final… 
Well at some later stage age one has to make some finalized decisions if not based on economics, then for other reasons (or both). Fixed incomes change ideas and ideologies.
After switching from my long held power plants (since the original P300 came out in late 1990’s) I’d owned over the generations up through and including the P10 (2) to Sunyata’s Triton v.3/Typhon QR two years ago, I’ve held firm on the Sigma HC PC’s. At some point (God willing, the creek don’t rise, inflation is checked and my investments return reasonably) I’ll consider my final cords, which would more probable than not, Siltech’s.
Eons ago, back in the early 1990’s, I purchased many feet of Siltech 12 gauge silver power cable that has silver shielding and Teflon sheathing. I made my own from Hubble AC connectors and IEC 15A using silver solder. Still, after all these almost 30 odd years they sound quite marvelous when I get the Jones to install them. I may just buy new carbon fiber silver AC/IEC connectors and re-terminate them and see where it takes me.
One never knows.
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Hey Oddeo, some similarities there…
Long time user of PP as well—been using P1200 for around 20yrs (only need fan changed twice in its life time—applaud for that). Later on, the Premier and P10 joined forces used in tandem, before all finally being replaced by P20 few years ago.
*Minor quibble—wish PS Audio had built tougher resistance into their PP for equipment start-up/turn-on—HC outlets don’t help much. My whole small system although only taxing average 20% load on P20, Amp often (70% of times) triggered its auto shut-off. No biggie, off~restart and all is good to go again—only bit of hassles there. Initially ordered two P20s (230V) for my two dedicated lines but cancelled one for this reason. Yes, tried single Amp alone on P20 into separate line–same thing. Hence told my dealer to defer one and wait for P30/40? instead if/when…
Siltech was/is also my go to cable! Their flat FT12 SC and 120 IC was my first true hi end cabling after Cardas in 80s… Stuck with this brand for 30yrs now.
Coincidentally, my spare PCs (from old mono amps) mentioned not having best of synergy with PS regens is their Double Crown, but perhaps they’ll work well with your Shunyata?
My upgrade path for PC into P20 would perhaps be Omega XC, Siltech TC, or the bigger Stage IIIs (Kraken up) which is also on my radar… But the cost of these nowadays… oh my!
Sorry for slight derailment, back to SR Purple thingy now…
P20 Fuse Upgrade - the correct direction of the current flow
I am a long time owner of P5 later P15 and then quite quickly switched to P20.
Changing the fuse has actually always made a difference. Recently, fuses with a preferred direction of the current have come on the market. Especially the new SR want to be operated only in one direction. So the direction of the current flow should go from phase to neutral.
But how is the fuse holder really installed in a P20/230V?
I have measured it and come to a result which was to be read here already contrary. Therefore, two pictures that explain it better. If you look at the device from above, the current flow always goes from the inside to the outside.
I hope that helps a little. It would be good if PSAudio would mark that.
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Hmmmm, interesting. The staff of PS Audio and several forum members told me a different story. According to them the S on the fuse should be in the cap of the fuse-holder…
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Try both ways. With the S in the cap did not sound best to me in my P15.
Yes, that’s right. But that’s why I measured it. Which is very simple.
The voltage carrying measuring point is always the phase coming from the 230V supply line. When the fuse holder is removed you can measure which measuring point is live.
If it were as you say, the fuse holder in the device would have to be contacted the other way around.
I also think that the same is done with all PSAudio devices. I have a 230V device for Europe.
Would be good if PSAudio could clarify this again itself.
As for the use of the SR-Purple Fuse so I have first followed their instructions, which says: from S to R.
I found a fuse provider that supports your findings. However, I definitely recall @jamesh saying current flows back to front. I too found that both my power plant and power amp to best perform as suggested by James.
The purpose of my measurement was only to determine the direction of the current flow.
And it would be good if PSAudio makes a general statement how your devices are connected.
I have yet to find out if the suggested direction from SR is the best. The SR Purple currently has only 100 hours of operation.
I will turn it around after 200 hours of operation.
Do you have a link with a statement from PSAudio about this?
Hi Peter,
That’s a GREAT question. I asked our chat group on the Sales and Service crew and the answer I got from service was a hard “NO” on using 25% higher. I think we’d bump into a warranty issue if we did that. I would stick with the prescribed value. I have heard from numerous folks that the Purple Fuses are a great after-market swap. Let me know if you hear a difference.
As far as the directionality, electricity is moving from back to front.
I hope this was helpful!
Zach
Zach Balch | HiFi Specialist
1-800-PSAUDIO direct 720-402-3925
psaudio.com Boulder, Colorado
From: Scott McGowan <scott@psaudio.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 9, 2021 1:43 PM
To: Peter Bongers <p.bongers@upcmail.nl>
Cc: Zachary Balch <Zach@psaudio.com>
Subject: RE: technical question
Hi Peter, thanks for writing and for your excellent question. I have cc’ed Zach to this email, we’ll get right back to you with some ideas and insights. Sound OK? Thanks and more info soon!
All the best,
Scott
Scott McGowan | Sales Director
1-800-PSAUDIO psaudio.com
From: Peter Bongers <p.bongers@upcmail.nl>
Sent: Monday, November 8, 2021 7:59 AM
To: Kevin Jackson <kevin@psaudio.com>
Subject: technical question
Scott,
Just wanted to let you know I’m quite happy with my new P20 (230V European version).
But… I do have a question for the technical experts in your team.
On the PS Audio forum there’s a lot to do about the new Synergistic Research Purple fuses.
I’m thinking to purchase such a fuse for my P20. According to my info this should be a 6.3A 250V slow-blow fuse.
Synergistic Research (and their dealer in the Netherlands) advises to use a value that is 25% higher.
In this case a 8A 250V slow-blow fuse.
Would this be dangerous or put my warranty at risk?
Another question: the SR fuses are very directional. Can you tell me if the hot side of the fuse-holder of my P20 (230V version) is pointing to the front or to the rear?
Best regards,
Peter Bongers
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Hi Peter,
thanks for the info from PSAudio.
I almost suspect we have a misunderstanding here regarding rear and front.
My measurement clearly proves the opposite. That’s why I also attached the pictures. The direction of the current flow is clear.
If PSAudio insists my P20 would be a wrongly wired device and therefore a warranty case.
Maybe European version of PS Audio gears have differences…
- Fuse rate value
I asked to PS Audio team for my P12, (European 230V model) because SR Purple fuses only come with 3.15A value vs 3A shown on the back panel. They stated very clearly to stick with specs. So even 0.15A gap is to avoid and respect 3A. So I certainly will do.
I had the opportunity on Audiogon forum (see the thread The New Synergistic Research Purple Fuses) to write directly to Ted Denney, CEO of Synergistic Research, in order to let him know about this issue. He was very kind and promised me to investigate after holidays if possible to product a 3A model of Purple Fuse for European customer (and not only I hope) of PS Audio P12.
This wonderful P12 already has limitation for EU people, with less outlets (only 3 schuko + only 1 HC) and now with a fuse value uncommon. Anyway I love it and thank Boulder guys for this useful component, to be honest.
- Flow current
Following other members posts, very happy to know if also for what concern directionality our EU models are different. Thank you PS Audio team for share with us also this information.
Happy new year and stay all safe my friends!
I very much hope that PSAudio makes a binding statement on this. I have not read anything yet.
