@ALRAINBOW I’m glad I don’t near you as well.
Al,
There is an i2s option on Lampizator USB transport, (solid state conversion only) but it does not get Lampizatorized. I’m not sure what you mean by 'What Format?" The USB from your PC sends the files to the USB Transport. Then the USB Transport sends it out to SPIDF or AES/EBU. Your player software is responsible for the format. I use jRiver. It plays all formats.
Steven
P.S.
I agree with Birddog. I really don’t like the way the PWD and PWT case opens. The last time I took my PWD Transport apart to change fuses, the all threads bent and broke off the hex nuts that are inside PWD and PWT causing the PWT to travel home to PS Audioland to be fixed. I also dislike the little silver clips that are include to insure a tight fit.
Paul,
I think PS Audio should include 4 Stainless Steel flat head screws plus directions via manual and YouTube for the newbies and other interested parties.
It would probably result in less frustration and maybe even some downtime servicing PWDs and PWTs in the future.
Steven
B-)
PPS -Christopher is one of the most patient and meticulous people I know when it comes to building cables to custy specs, servicing equipment, and answering questions by confused audiophiles. When I had problems with eLyric and jRiver he patiently guided me through using Microsoft’s regedit to clean up my registry files. One only has to read his posts on cleaning up the Sonic Frontiers and Levinson gizmos to ready them for sale.
The cover stinks no doubt but I was kidding with him, but no intential agravation was intendid . I will pm him and appaoligise . The clips on the side should be for grounding it evenly , but maybe not. As for an actual pics yes we need it. The first time for it was about 45 mins of you tube and docs. Once it opened it was easy. Anyway what i meant by format was the i2s format . HDMI and pwd acceptible or rj45 and not. The i2s has no indusrty standard. Now the lampi is tuby . But the lampi dac is hot right now. I have someone coming to my office with a level 4 gen 4 with all the options in it. I want to compare it to the pwd with the offramp 5.
Al
Alrainbow,
I’m not sure if he uses the HDMI or not. I wouldn’t be surprised as he is very aware of PS Audio and their engineering skills. And Paul is open to others implementing this standard. My friends did not order that option so I’ve not seen it. One of my friends owns a tricked out Level 4 which sounds awesome. Another owns the Level 5 with remote, separate power supply, and DSD. I thought the Level 4 sounded awesome but the Level 5 is totally another beast. The inclusion of the Lampizator transport really was an eye opener. We hooked it into the PWD and compared it to the PWD with Bridge. I can only say that Lukasz knows what he’s doing.
Steven
Wow thats cool. How was it connected to the pwd? Spidif ? also was it in native or native X mode?
Al
Hi,
Yes connected via SPDIF. I always run the PWD in NativeX mode. Eye opening.
Steven B-)
Ok when i tried the spidif with the offramp is was ok , but no big improvement . But when i used the hdmi that is when i could not believe it was the same dac. So did you try in native. As if the transport has its own clock then try theres as opposed to the pwd clock .
Al
sgrowan said: The last time I took my PWD Transport apart to change fuses, the all threads bent and broke off the hex nuts that are inside PWD and PWT causing the PWT to travel home to PS Audioland to be fixed.
Scary.
This is a helpful warning. I found the covers a pain, but had not known the parts can easily break as well.
Hi,
I did not try Native. Didn’t know it had a separate clock.
Steven B-)
Ok
Elk,
I believe that this has happened to more than one person. 
Steven B-)
I agree it is easy to break. Maybe it was no biggie for me as i do the RC heli and car hobby. So small cheaply made products that must be disassembled and reassembled has taught me well i guess. But joking as side it is perplexing at first.
Al
It appears so. 
I have the PWD & PWD re-fused and they are on. The P-1000 appears to be stable with 78-79 watts being pulled through it. The CJ ACT 2 Series 2, Phono Stage & the 2 PSA units are all that is really connected to the P-1000. I will have to keep my eye on things - 30 minutes and all is well. You may recall, when I loaded the P-1000 into that Adona Nemesis shelf problems began. The shelf above the P-1000 was too close. It has been removed.
Using the pan-head 4-40 screws: Do not forget to take the screws out BEFORE you try to remove the lid. Obviously, the pan-head screws will not pass thorough the chassis as do the all-threads.
Also, I removed all those silver flotchers (grippers?). I know, I know horrible sonic degradation. Too, bad.
Lastly, I replaced the 4 black chassis screws with marine grade stainless steel 4-40 Allan-head screws. Slightly longer than the stock screws and, of course, non-magnetic.
Now, all I have to do is sit back and wait for the inevitable commentary from @alrainbow. It’s like a sneeze. You know it’s coming but there is nothing you can do about it.
.
Well, it’s a tough issue for us. First off, we never designed nor intended the PerfectWaves to be opened and messed with. The one time that we did, when we launched the upgrade kits, we included everything necessary to do it. But now people are getting into these units as if they were kits and they are not. The devices were never intended to be opened by consumers. Not sure if we want to walk down that road, although I do understand the desire to replace the fuse.
@admin My fuses blew. Thought it might be a good idea to replace them with the gold-tip fuses that arrived yesterday from PSA. Consequently, removal of the lid was necessary - no kit issues involved.
I thought opening the case was easy, if a little time consuming. But the look of it day in and day out is worth that minor effort, imo.
Aren’t those silver doohickeys for EMF exclusion?
That is kinda what I thought. Some kind of shielding. But I am a bit afraid to comment on this cover thing lol.
@wglenn Who knows? I have no doubt they are indispensable. If it is EMI, wouldn’t the strips have to continuous? Or do they act like EMI sponges? I don’t know. Can’t hear any difference with or without. Do you know of any other manufacturer who uses them. Most have screws holding the roof on and I assume the screws make the electrical connection.