So, I have this huge Krell FPB 400cx power amp, driving my Legacy Audio Signature II speakers, which are 92dB efficient 4 ohm speakers. The Krell is rated for 400/800/1600 watts into 8/4/2 ohms. Here are the power consumption specs:
Stand by 75 watts
Idle 350 watts
Max. 3000 watts
Here is a link to the manual, which has the complete specs:
I would also be connecting my Denon AVR, Oppo UHD Blu-ray player, PS Audio Stellar Gain Pre-amp/DAC, cable DVR box, turntable, and possibly TV to the power regenerator. I don’t really listen to music very loud, but for movies I will crank it up a bit.
At this point, the Krell is connected to a standard 15 amp line with upgraded outlet. Now, Krell recommends a 20 amp line for this amp, but it seems to be working decently, although when there is a large bass impact, the lights in the room will dim. The lights also dim briefly every time I turn on the Krell. Actually, the lights will even dim when I turn on the Denon AVR.
Agreed with the above. Plug directly into wall, ideally with dedicated 20A line. If you want to protect from surge, install one at the electrical panel.
Well, then color me confused here. I thought the whole point of these power regenerators was so that one would not be relying on the power output at the wall. I was given to believe that the power regenerator would store power over time and be able to respond to transient peaks BETTER than if the amp was plugged into the wall. I also don’t understand why I would buy one of these power regenerators if I’m not plugging the power amp into it. I think I need to call PS Audio.
m, that’s a good idea. I’m with you in that I bought a power regenerator for the same reasons, under the same impressions. In my case I’ve been using tube class A amps that output 2, 4, 5, 6 or 25 watts per channel (currently using 4 and 5 watt models) and so not a stress at all on my regenerator, and in each case the amps sound so much better with the regenerator than plugged into the wall directly.
I think that the suggestion for a dedicated circuit for your system is a good one, but if the P20 can handle the load (and I think it has been designed to) th P20 may really improve the system sound, so seeking PS Audio’s opinion is a good next step.
I agree with Lonson. Get a P20 and you’ll be blown away at the improvement.
Plugging the Krell directly into the wall will never be as good as going through the regenerator. And I wouldn’t worry too much about the lights dimming. While it would always be better to have a bigger gauge wire feeding the outlet I doubt it would change the turn on draw. (You could fix that by using the P20’s HC outlets which have a slow start feature to help with that).
There’s no question the P20 has the grunt to handle this load as there is no question it will dramatically improve what you have keeping it on the single outlet.
The biggest mistake people make in powering equipment is believing that plugging directly into the wall socket is better than through a regenerator—a power conditioner yes that’s to be avoided—but not a proper regenerator with its active energy storage and lowering of wall impedance.
Thanks, then I’m wondering if, for my Krell power amp, I need a P20 or would the P12 be sufficient, given my efficient speakers. That P20 is way expensive for me.
You got it right and there’s no need for confusion. Power regenerators like the Power Plants DO store energy and CAN and DO deliver peak power unavailable from the wall. They lower impedance beyond anything possible at the wall. Adding a P20 is the same as changing your home’s wiring gauge by more than a few gauges heavier or shortening the wire in the wall to no more than mere feet from the power generator.
It can be hard for folks to wrap their heads around the Power Plant’s lowering of impedance and application of stored energy—how a Power Plant can deliver peak amperage of up to 70 amps on a 15 amp line. But, hard or not, that’s what a Power Plant does and when you hear the difference the improvement is obvious and immediate.
I would move then to a P15 which will give you the same but won’t challenge the power. The P12 would work but might activate the fans. Worth a try if that’s what you can afford and certainly better than the wall socket.
OK, I just don’t get it. The P20 is like a sine wave generator hooked to a bad ass power amp on steroids. The multi-wave function is the Fo Shizzle… tops the amp caps people… dynamic power! Like test driving a Vette and then getting into a Z06 production race platform… holy crap does that have power, screw the Vette, gimmie a Z06 power… cause at the end of the day - it gets dark.
Here is what I did -
10/2 Romex single run line from panel to duplex
SR BLUE duplex; cause WTF…
Shuyatta Research Anaconda (6ga, 20A, 1.8m) power cord to P20; holy crap that is a thick cord
P20 regenerator (sine wave gen + bad ass amp)
All AC12 power cords to all components including the Sboosters
DONE! The power Fo Shizzle - never to worry about weather the amp dips or, when I upgrade from BHK250 to BHK300 monos I will have the Fo Shizzle… wait a minute, I just upgraded… BAM!
I decided not to spend 100s of hours thinking about should I go P20, or my wife will be mad or is the P15 better than P10 or what power cord is big enough or bad enough… Done… no more conversations about power. The FO SHIZZLE!
[edit] Foshizzle it is… I have been edumicated…
(edit 2] Fo Shizzle it has become… the wrangler approves and that is all I will need…
