If you are at all handy, or have someone you can trust, I’d consider reterminating your existing cable with:
Furutech FI-12ML (R) & (G)
You can pick one up here:
https://www.vhaudio.com/connectors-ac.html
I will take a look at that option. Thanks!
There are two particularly nice things about this connector. 1) The back shell comes completely off making access to the lugs very straightforward. 2) There are screw terminals around the interior circumference of the back shell so you can adjust the angle of the plug to be as much as 3 o’clock to the right and 9 o’clock to the left vs the normal 6 o’clock orientation. I’ve used this feature a few times. It’s nice with thicker cables creating less bend/stress.
It’s built surprisingly well. I don’t think you will be disappointed.
Pangea AC-9SEMKII. I also replaced the stock fuse with an Audio Magic Bees Wax fuse. That made a bigger improvement than the power cord did.
Yeah, the Pangeas give HUGE bang for the buck.
amazon sells this which works well.
Where am I?
What is that?
Ew.
Hey, it works.
It shouldn’t. I should cause fires.
I don’t believe so.
Hey tarheelneil…indeed the Pangea AC9se MkIIs are
great big value for the buck…I run a full loom in my
system. AC14SE MKIIs for sources.
Sometimes the iec end of it that goes into power amp or
sources (AC14SE MkIIs as well) will slip just a little bit
loosing contact.
To alleviate this…and tighten up the connection I use flat
wooden toothpicks jammed alongside of the iec connector.
But wondered it there may be a better way to dot his.
Thanks y’all
Best wishes…
Have you consider putting a single wrap of electrical tape around the IEC? I have done that as a temp fix while waiting to either purchase a new cable or replace just the IEC with a better connector.
Also shrink tube.
Thanks vkennedy…
Never occurred to me to try electrical tape…somehow
am not too eager to replace the massive stock iec connector.
Duplicating the factory internal forming of the wires to the connectors…
for soldering and attaining the same quality end result may be more
of challenge than I want to occasion…
Appreciate your suggestion though…
Many power cables are not soldered. The wire into the lug is often bare. Some manufacturers use a “nipple” that’s compressed over the bare wire to make insertion into the lug easier. But if you slightly twist the wire and are gentle while inserting into the plug, you’ll get a very good connections. You do need to make sure that the screws in the lugs are reasonably tight. It’s best to go back over them after you do all three.
All my ‘Power’ cables are home made by myself. To my P5 i use, Furutech FI-1363R Rhodium Plated Mains Plug, Furutech FI-28 IEC Connector ,Furutech FP-S55N Mains Power Cable (x1.5mt) HIFI TUNING Supreme³ UK MAINS PLUG FUSE, total cost £492.5, expensive to many but i enjoyed the exercise.
I was using the the Audioquest Thunder on my P10. I upgraded to the Audioquest Hurricane and the jump in performance is significant if not mind blowing to me! The sound stage is more open with greater separation between instruments. I was hoping for improvement but what I got is giant sonic leap forward IMO! The P10 with the Hurricane has improved everything plugged into it! Now I’m debating stepping up to the Firebird!
I recommend Shunyata Sigma, or even better, wireworld platinum. Much better than AQ Dragon in my system, to my ears, IMHO. And much, much, cheaper.
Both excellent cables. I’ve considered the WW Platinum. How long did you have the Dragon in your system for evaluation?
Several months