Hello, I read though this thread as I experience the same “Result”.
– Stay “Initializing blue screen”.
However I had a little different case:-
I receive brand new P20 end of JAN 2020. Had been sitting “unused” for 1+ month. I turned on before (4 times) to ensure it was running, remote traversing no problem. (remains unplug all time for this 1+ month).
Today I try again, (I plan to move it to audio room, but before that…), it just stays at “Initializing”.
I was not able to record which version it is running now since it it freezing now.
Yet, since it came from factory two months ago, I believe it was with new firmware.
I see this trick mentioning “forceload” may do the trick.
May I know how to try “forceload”, and if there is a way to “RESET” the unit? (I do not find any note like this in user manual).
I would in parallel email to support see if there is any hint on how this thing could happen and how to resolve. (hoping sending back is not needed for this beast).
reloading the firmware via SD card (but it stays with the black screen and the pS logo flashing without starting)
Each time I press ON on the rear button, it shows on the display the “Initializing” logo, then I can hear a “click” sound (after that it usually turn green the color of the plug icons) then it stuck in initializing mode with the red icons as shown in my picture.
If I press the front blu logo button, it doesn’t work, nothing changes.
Thanks Vern, unfortunately it doesn’t work, even if I hold pressing the logo button while powering on (after a few minutes unplugged), it stuck so as in my picture above.
After a few days in contact with @jamesh and mainly Steve from PS Audio (kind guy, very responsive) it seems that there is a faulty oscillator board to be replaced.
I asked both Travis from PSA and the Italian importer to send me a new unit to replace the brand new faulty P15 (I bought it less than 4 weeks ago, after my room refurbishment) and M1200 (with a faulty relay just right these days, not lucky at all!) Considering it a “beau geste” towards a frustrated (loyal) customer who is facing another issue (BHK Pre brand new, SPPs twice brand new, DS MK II beta unit, and now simultaneously M1200 and P15 - a pretty long list indeed).
Since yesterday… no answers.
Today I’m going to order a Puritan PSM156 with Ultimate cable, to try if this technology can bring some improvements in my system compared to my brand new P15 that actually ended up first noisy and then unusable.
I hate to say but I’m looking at the horizon new different scenarios, sad to feel so.
I own the Puritan PSM 156 as it was recommended by my dealer. It’s not expensive so I thought what the heck. One day I slid it behind my P20 and hooked up to it instead of the P20. I noticed an immediate change to the sound of my system. Sadly, not for the better. The P20 was restored in short order.
I am sorry you, and others are having these issues. Someone needs to get their act together!
Going back as long as I’ve been a member of this forum the vast majority of the issues with the Regenerators seem to be with owners living in Countries with 220-230 volt electrical systems. Conversely power products developed in 220 volt regions don’t seem to have the same issues when converted to the North American standard. If I lived in the EU I would look at the power products developed for that standard. But that’s just me.
Just for curiosity, with ears close to the chassis, do you hear buzz noise from your P20? I don’t think so.
My aim is to keep the P20 for pre and sources in effect, using the PSM 156 only for M1200s, to compare it to the P15.
Actually my amplification area dilemma is between:
using the P15 (if it works, ehm ehm as soon as someone send me a new unit) I have great sound from M1200s, but the P15 is noisy due to an annoying subtle buzz from the toroidal transformer (also noticed odd unexpected bad values of EMI from its outlets). Cheap DC Blockers do not solve the problem.
not using the P15, it means with the M1200s directly plugged to dedicated wall sockets, the room is silent but something is missing related to the magic of music I was used before with the P15.
So I would try the PSM156, searching for a compromise on the amplification side, able to give me both silence and great sound together, I hope. A sort of experiment, so to speak. If it doesn’t work, I’ll sell it.
You are probably right, I also published a poll on the forum about this argument
All other PS units are dead silent, BHK Pre, SPP, PST, DS MK I and II and even P12 I owned a few years ago. IME P20 and mainly P15 is having buzz noise louder.
Yes sir, I have the Gryphon Commander, the Gryphon Ethos, Grimm MU1, BACCH-SP adio, and the turntable plugged into the P20. About 300 watts total. Overkill for sure. The P20 crashes when I plug the big Apex into it. Oh well. It requires 2 20 amp circuits so this is no surprise.
Sorry to hear about your experiences with your P15, Luca.
If you can’t get the issue with the P15 resolved quickly and painlessly, and you want to try something else, I can highly recommend a Shunyata Denali 6000.
A friend upgraded his Denali to an Everest and I borrowed the Denali for a few days just out of curiosity. I substituted it for my P20 (which I’m 100% satisfied with) and I will say that it sounds great and I could be happy with it. I notice no loss in fidelity.
Thanks Ron, you all know how I love and respect PSA brand. I’ll be grateful for the rest of my life to Paul and all the members of this great PSA forum, my audiophile journey depends so much on what I learned here.
But I cannot negate a few issues I’ve encountered along the way, with the same intellectual honesty and hoping my comments might be constructive.
I finally ordered the PSM 156, within a week I’ll be able to share here my impressions, as usual.
Unfortunately I haven’t yet received answers from PS and/or the importer about my request to replace the bad units. I’m a patient guy, no worries. Maybe the imminent Hi-End event in Munich is keeping them busy.
As for Denali it was on my radar but without home auditioning it’s always a jump in the dark for this kind of stuff, no one of my dealers is official distributor of Shunyata products, pretty rare brand here in Italy.
Luca, the oscillator board is an easy replacement. When I bought my P15 it had a weird buzz to it. It too was diagnosed as a bad oscillator board. PSA sent me a new board and I took care of it with no issues. Once repaired the buzzing was gone and it operated perfectly. This was a US 120VAC unit.
Hi Luca. Travis and some are in Munich but I am here. I saw your note about the oscillator board and last I heard we were getting a replacement to you. It is easy to replace.
Sorry for all the problems.
I am happy if you want to reach out to me personally paul@psaudio.com
Hopefully between MPI and our staff we can get this resolved.
Thanks Tony, strictly following step by step instructions from Steve (PSA guys) I tried last days removing the lid from P15 and locating where is the oscillator board, in order to unplug and reseat it to assure that it’s correctly seated. Anyhow I didn’t remove it completely, so I don’t remember if it is possible to replace it just “plug and play” so to speak or there are some connectors or (I hope not) soldering parts to be detached.
Are you saying that you easily replaced it with your hands without the need of any kind of tools or technical expertise?
Thanks.
EDIT: I sent this post while Paul was writing his posts, so I read them later.
Thanks you so much Paul, very appreciate. I’m just forwarding to you last emails I exchanged with Steve. It sounds great if I’ll be able to replace the board by myself!
