There is a breaker that protects the output of the regenerator. The 5 amp fuse is the supply fuse in 110 - 120 environment. The 3.15 is for the 220 volt environments.
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The small fuse is probably for the internal circuit of the P10. It cuts off the top and bottom points of the sine wave and reforms them. As far as I know, about 1/3 of the sine wave. The remaining larger part remains. The 10 A fuse should be for the outputs of the P10.
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Sooner or later I will try a Stealth power cord on MK2, then Iāll have a spare AQ Dragon power cord left to use on LHYs (talking about overkillš). Both LHY switches have cords with real Furutech plugs which can be used as pigtail. But I bet pigtail will be good enough for FB. The PSA cord on it now sounds better than many pricy cords I had before. I have a few more cords on my HT passed down from system before that I didnāt bother to try. But in my experience for a non-component device, these cords make way less difference. So, a decent cord will give you 99% of performance compared to a cord that costs many times more. This is a simple device so I believe it is not worthwhile to spend crazy on a new cord, especially the cord after FB is a Zenwave PSR-11.
My FB is 5A, and with M1200 typically I use less than 200 W even when listening loud.
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You donāt have to exaggerate. The PSR certainly makes a significant contribution to this. 
My Class A/B amplifiers already require 200 watts when idle. When I listen, the power consumption goes to over 300 watts. At times, depending on the impulses in the music, the display on my PS 10 is 600-700 watts. Iām wondering whether an SDFB connection is sufficient for me. Or I get problems and it triggers at the correct value as a replacement for the internal fuse
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Based on the functionality of the SDFB, I donāt know why you would have an issue; unless the SDFB setting specified cannot truly emulate a slo-blo fuse. If I understand you correctly, I can see where you might be concerned that the amps might try to draw too much current on dynamic passages, but not continuously, and cause repeated tripping of the SDFBās electronic breaker.
(Addenda: But the way the regenerator works - its essentially an amplifier as I understand it - I would think it is generating/storing enough power internally to essentially buffer itself against transitory peaks in current draw at the inlet to the P10. 
)
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Correct. Another but more expensive option would be the EFuse intern blue . This would replace the small fuse directly without the need for a box in the connection cable.
Before I choose pink or M2 I would try it out. If it doesnāt work with the SDFB I could use it for my preamplifier. And I would have to choose the expensive Efuse solution.
The core power technologies cords are from underwood. They are pretty good sounding. However the counterfeit furutech plugs are pure junk. I used to run them on my amps but common ground whispers trounced them. I moved one to my preamp but ground pin broke off in the P20. I replaced the male connector with a silver based watt gate.
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I will run the pigtail in a week to see how good it sounds. Thereāre so many Chinese made plugs out there with various qualities. But I assume Underwood must have done some research before settling on this one for their cords (not just the pigtail).
I have a spared Furutech 48 male plug left too.
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My cord was a Underwood Odin 2 knockoff design. They are way better than stock. Just the connector is too soft for P20 female plugs. The wally cord with the Wattgate silver plug has sounded better than anything else on on preamp. Even a stealth V18LE power cord.
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But the Whisper elite killed it on Mk2.
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That Whisper cord is a nice one as I remember. If the Pigtail doesnāt sound as good as the old PSA Iāll put my spare Furutech plug on it, or stay with the PSA.
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When you do, see if you can also get your hands on an Audience FrontRow. For me the Dream 18 UNI was not as good a match on my MkII as the FrontRow. That was much better. The UNI was the winner on my streamer. YMMV but be prepared to consider alternatives. Al may strike me with lightning (isnāt he also Zeus? 
), but a Stealth power cord isnāt always the right answer.
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I am not super clear what youāre asking me here but I would be careful with this one. On the one hand it is extremely rare that we lose a fuse in a Power Plant. But it has happened in a handful of cases over the last 27 years of its existence, and in those rare cases it was a good thing the fuse was there. I am uncomfortable with the idea of replacing a fuse with a wire or a rod.
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The fuse should be replaced by an electrical fuse so that protection continues. Since the fuse is not of very high value, not all of the current will flow through it to the socket outlets of a power plant. There is an additional thermal 10 A fuse in the power plant (P10). My concern is whether a replacement fuse in the supply line works. I am of the opinion that this would reduce the maximum output of the power plant. In Germany, Efuse has a solution that is not inserted into the connection cable like this SDFB. This Efuse is installed internally in the device and then replaces the fuse. I think this variant is more advantageous because the basic function and individual backup remain intact. The full output power is not limited by a fuse box in the connection cable. This Efuse solution could also be integrated into one of your successor products to increase its sound quality and the customer would no longer have to worry about audiophile fuses.
Greetings Andreas
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Based on your assessment, I wonder should I even try the Dream V18. Luca has it (two or three now?) for a few weeks and has never mentioned how it does in his system at all. He is crazy about that Cloude Grande. Hmmm.
Dream 20-20 maybe my next target to replace the Class+ cord for Puritan.
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It wouldnāt hurt. I need to get one for my P20.
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Cloude Grande for server/streamer and Dream 20-20 for amp. Biggest results. After that a Dream V18 UNI for the PhoenixNET, great result at a lesser degree. Currently Iām waiting a second CG for the DAC and a Dream V18 Digital for the Sean Jacobs PSU feeding the router.
If I had to choose a power cord for the regens or Puritans, Iād go with a 20-20.
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Donald, all Iām suggesting is Stealth cords, like any other highly considered cord, needs to be the right solution in the right place in the right system. Just because itās a Stealth doesnāt turn it into a guarantee.
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Tony, I totally agree cable and component synergy trumps everything else. I have spent enough on learning the lesson in the past. That is why I am very happy with PSA gear matching up with AQ Dragons. PSA matches with AQ Dragons perfectly (simply put warm meets cold in the best possible natural way 
). I have four Dragons connected to PSA gear so I hesitate to replace any of them; it is very possible I will change the synergy and jump into another rabbit hole.
However, during my experiment using a adapter with Puritan, It is obvious the Classic+ is an inferior PC, and a cord like Stealth 20-20 will be a sure bet on improving the system. Thanks Luca!
I need a vacation or two to calm me down. Luckily, I have two coming so I can forget about this silly business. Afterall my system sounds great.
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Donald, donāt let anyone mislead you. Al and Luca have other components and speakers in addition to their favorite stealth cables. If your system now offers a natural sound, it could break if you make major changes. Also remember Daveās promise that your PSR 11 cable can compete with the best in the world. Al and Luca missed trying out Zenwave cables.
Maybe your cables in combination with a Swiss digital fuse box will beat all stealth cables.
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