[Apologies ahead of time:]
I don’t think Elon Musk follows our work here.
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LOL, and a big blue check!
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I just installed an M1 in my Decware ZROCK2. Prior to this I had an M1 in my P15, and Purples everywhere else. I felt that with the output tube I like best I could use just a bit more M1 body and pluck and the ZROCK2 would be the best place to do so with just one fuse as it is right before my Monoblocks.
After a bit of drama and trepidation (did you know that the M1 is sider than the standard width of fuses? enough so to break off the little tab on my fuse holder above the IEC inlet, but it fits in there tightly, more tightly and all is well) the M1 is in and sounding. . . just like I remember the M1 sounding in my P15 at first. So there’s a bit of bass bloom that then sifts into a phasey high frequency sound, and back. In a few days, five maybe, it’s going to be just great.
My next incoming component is going to be a Decware SEWE300B in four or five months, and that will need two fuses. I think I’ll go M1 but I’ll see how it sounds with the stock fuses first. I like the blend of Purples and M1.
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Don’t give him any ideas; next he will tweet that he’s buying PSA, financing secured.
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The first week the mid and bass bloom of M-1 is quite heavy. By the third week M-1 would sound full and detailed without bloom as I remembered.
Yes, that was pretty much my experience with the M1 in my P15 but after a week it was quite listenable while doing its final seasoning.
I found some mid and high roughness between 50 and 100 hours on MK2. By 100 it really starts stepping up. My fuse should have over 250 hours next listen on Thursday evening. I am looking forward to it. But, yes first listen with M-1 is always a treat. Not sure on Zrock2 price, but putting M-1 in 300 dollars LPs makes it sound lik a 1200 dollar unit.
Well this ZROCK2 has all the mods and cost a bit over 1000–it responds well to fuses and tube-rolling, I’ve tried four fuses in it over the years.
It’s interesting that we’ve all had the break in experience with SR, M-1, Telos…it seems unavoidable. Personally, I’ve enjoyed the journey and the musings as to how it’s the case. However, I’ll add here that I’ve also quite a bit of experience with QSA fuses (Light Blue, Yellow and Violet) and they all seemed to have next to no break in. Maybe 12 hours? I’m looking forward to the day the tech types can easily explain why it’s happening. In the meantime I’ll just enjoy the results.
It makes me wonder, do people here running multiple brands have a preference for which type of gear gets which brand? My Pass Labs INT-30A loves the SR Purple, but didn’t gel with the QSA Yellow. My Innuos ZEN MK3 has a QSA Violet that snapped everything into focus and added tremendous depth to the stage (Telos made it rough around the edges with thunderous bass), while the M-1 seems great in a CD player that was lacking a little tonal mass.
Thoughts?
I found the M-1 can successfully work particularly with the P20 (and I suppose P15 too) BHK Pre and SPP, analog stuff so to speak, while the SR Purple makes me more happy with digital gear like PST and most of all Innuos products like ZENith MK 3 and PhoenixNET/USB so it’s my choice for the Statement as soon as it will be well burnt in. Therefore I think my best results are coming from a sort of balance between the 2 fuses.
The MK II is different, it already shines as it is, so I’m more to experiment first with the M-1 in this case.
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Well, I’ve tried four different fuses in my system in various gear. I actually had, until recently, used the same fuses across the system, not realizing that a mixture might be a revealing adventure. I started off with Furutech, and found them appealing because I am always battling brightness in my listening room and the Furutech had a darkening, warming effect. Then a trusted audio penpal encouraged me to try Audio Magic and I went with the Super fuse and that gave me enough darkening and revealed that the Furutech was obscuring micro-details I enjoyed being unveiled.
Then I noticed all the furor over Synergistic Research fuses and bought a used Blue from the forum to try in my P10. I really did like that in the mix, it gave a bit of dynamics that I didn’t know I was missing. I then felt moved to buy some Purples and put those into the system top to bottom. A great sound for a long time but I found that I began battling brightness again, just a bit, but a nagging bit. So I moved to the new darling of the fuse world, the Audio Magic M-1, for the P15 I had replaced the P10 with, and . . . it was a great balancing act with all the Purples. A bit more body to the imaging and a slight diminution to the brightness.
I was still a bit troubled with brightness across a number of recordings so I contemplated another M-1 and just yesterday installed one in my beloved tubed EQ device, the Decware ZROCK2. It’s only been about 16 hours now but the initial bass bloat that I experienced before with the P15 has been diminishing and there’s a nice natural high frequency sound that I’m relaxing into.
So I would conclude from this that I actually like Audio Magic for the regenerator and my most sensitive to tube and fuse device, the ZROCK2 and think that the Synergistic Reearch Purple is an all around good tube for source and pre-amplification and amplification components.
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Congratulations on the fuse journey and finding the right balance. I have moved from one M-1, three Purples to two of each and could not be happier. I am set until the M-2 or Purple Plus show up.
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I am once again safely back to ignoring fuses completely.
I feel good, knew that I would.
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We would all save a lot of money if all equipment used breakers. 
Then we can sit back and enjoy the music with the added time back in our lives. 
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Only problem with your suggestion is you will never know what
your amp’s circuit breakers are hindering … or if any improvements
are available…
Out of curiosity …are your amps Pass amps?
Best wishes
No, I have the PSA BHK 300’s which currently has the SR Blue fuse’s through out. I have the purples in the BHK Pre. I plan to upgrade to the purples eventually.
I have replaced the M-1 fuse with the stock fuse in P15 for a few hours, do I hear a difference?
Clearly! The M-1 gives a fuller and denser presentation, and the soundstage is wider and deeper too. More importantly, the mid-range has better detail and weight. In my system the warmness and depth of vocals are ideally placed with M-1 in P15. I still have an M-1 plus two Purples in the system but it is not well balanced without the 2nd M-1 in it.
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You convinced me! Then my next fuse plans are:
- P15 (feeding M1200s) = AM M-1
- MK II = SR-M
- Statement = Purple
They will be added to the already existing:
AM-1 (P20 - SPP - BHK Pre)
Purple (PST - PhoenixNET)
Just like my old P12 also the 230V EU P15 requires a 3AH fuse version, that SR
doesn’t produce (3.15AH only) while AM does.
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Just a question, in case you had an initial other fuse preference: have you checked with PSA whether the difference between 3.0A and 3.15A is a big deal?
As I understand, is not.
Anyone, please educate me if I misunderstood.
Edit: I have a SR 3.15A Purple in my P15.
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Thank you, yes I asked about it a few months ago when I had 2 P12s in my system and the answer was: please use the fuse recommended shown on the back panel of the unit.
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