my guess is that the second listening will be either shorter than 10minutes, or will stay as it is forever
Usually the direction of flow of the SR fuse is given. The current should flow from S to R. Because in the case of the fuse holder of the power plant, the current should flow from the power plant into the holder and from there back. Provided the phase at the power plant is correct. Insert the R into the holder and the S towards the power plant. Just like in Luca’s photo.
When I got my Audioquest RJ 45 Noise Stopper from a hifi dealer today. He was just explaining to a customer that speakers should never be placed directly against the back wall. His reasoning: otherwise you would never experience a real depth effect and spatial representation. The SR Master creates a deep stage that extends well behind the speakers. The purple too, by the way. The Audio Magic I have and also the Padis make a front facing stage. Maybe that’s why SR fuses sound like a pancake when the speakers are flat against the wall. It’s less noticeable on the Audio Magic as it builds the sound further forward. In a pinch, there’s DSP and Bachh to counteract misalignment. Incidentally, Audioquest’s noise cancellers seem to be doing something. I’ve now sealed all open inputs and outputs on my components to keep RF and EMI out. Where nothing can get in, nothing needs to be cleaned.
This should not be a criticism for those who have to place their loudspeakers flat against the wall or who cannot or are not allowed to place them further in the room. I think some distance between the speakers and the back can’t hurt. How else is a depth gradation supposed to increase backwards when the sound sticks to the back of the wall like a pancake.
When I picked u my speakers previous owner had them on right and left of a big 10 foot wide doorway to a music room with a bosendorfer grand piano behind them. The bass did not extend down but soundstage was more forward than I get against front wall also. I guess it makes no difference to the line arrays and they project forward despite how placed in the room. I get a deep image back into the wall. Heard one last night listening to Bob Dylan drum set back 6 feet behind his image. The master sounded like a speaker with phase miswiired. Everything inside the box. I wonder if master fuse is different with ported or open baffle.
Looks like Master is not right for your system. Better stick with M1’s which likes your system better. Master apparently is not for some systems, but the ones the Master works for, does it splendidly.
The question bothers me too. Your system with the speakers isn’t the standard that most people use either. Maybe it’s just not meant to be that the master works with the speakers. I just sealed all open Ethernet ports with Audioquest RJ 45 Noise Stopper. There seems to be less noise. The sound has become calmer and more spacious.Basses seem to have more substance.
Thanks for the verification Andreas.
And how does it sound with the SR Master?
I reckon it’s near time for the purple fuse to be replaced, it was launched in October 21 and I think they are usually updated every couple of years, so around this time.
I’m betting SR takes some of the ‘technology’ used in the Master fuse and trickles it down to whatever the next fuse color is going to be called?
I think you are right about that I have used several orange fuses and purple’s. For sure it must be their revenue model to come with something new every once in a while. Actually we need that in our hobbies.
These fuses can put something on the table that can’t be reached with normal upgrades in the same price range. Still I’m pretty sure they are fooling us to protect their revenue model. I have tested 3 purple fuses for 2 years and 2 QSA Red fuses for 7 months. For the record QSA is using standard fuses and adding something “quantum material” to it. I can’t deny it works great!, but it’s really not about the fuse. That just seems like a marketing trick. Because when you blow it after the warranty period you must buy a new one and you think you need one fuse for every device. In my latest test I found out that the directional arrow is just for indicating how it’s used and broken in, put it back the same way and you’re good. Besides this you also can choose not to put the fuse in any device “not kidding” just lay the fuse behind your system and use a normal fuse in your device and the effect will be still there. Adding more fusses does not always double the fun, actually I think one QSA red fuse is more than enough the second one was not clearly audible. The material on the fuses seems to do something with the radiation fields around your system. They neutralize the radiation in some way (reed about quantum mechanics) and this makes your system sound better.
This is my explanation. I can’t prove it sciencetifically. So don’t take this for 100% true, but I think this must be pretty close.
Interesting. Will do some research as well.
I am thinking about buying a Master fuse for my mkII, but obviously the power conditioner would be a better place for it. It’s a Shunyata Triton and it doesn’t look like it was meant to be disassembled. Has anyone tried opening the cover of a Triton and replacing the fuse? I’m reluctant to ask Shunyata because I’m sure they will tell me to back off it.
I don’t have a Shunyata Triton. In the pictures it looks like the device has no fuse. There isn’t much in there. Connection, sockets and three tubes for interference suppression as Akiko uses them.
A different fuse in the MK2 will definitely make a difference.
Someone will definitely get in touch who can tell you more about the right fuse for the MK2 and the Shunyata.
You’re right about that. I also don’t see a fuse in any of the pics I’ve found online.
Currently I’m using Purple fuses in all three of my components. The improvement over stock is remarkable. I’m sure the Master would offer another boost, but the price is a little off-putting. In a power conditioner, the cascade effect would make it worthwhile.
The SR Purple is quite good. In contrast to the SR Master, in my experience, the Purpel plays a little fuller and warmer. The soundstage is further back. The SR Master plays a little further forward, the stage is a bit wider than at the Purple. Details are worked out a little better. Microdeparts, reverberation is more noticeable. Maybe you’ll wait for Dchang/Donald to put his masters into the MK2 and describe his impressions with the ACME. Of course, SR offers a 30-day test option and you can listen to it on your own system and then decide which one suits you better. Greetings Andreas
I will put the Master in BHK pre first where Purple resides. Since Ron’s fuse is fully broken in, I just need to figure out which direction I like from the Master. After a day I should know how I like it compare to Purple.
I will then compare Purple to ACME in Lumin U2 next. Sounds fun!
But I am flying out tomorrow, so I will start the experience sometime next week.
No fuses… Shunyata uses hydraulic electromagnetic breakers!
ha-ha, what a coincidence, I just rediscovered this myself. All along something seemed wrong about the Shunyata having a fuse. Now I’ve been reacquainted with the literature. Thank you!
Thanks, Andreas! Actually I’m a little surprised that you say Purple is fuller and warmer. Other commentators have said the Purple is lean and lively while the Master is fuller. Well, I guess it’s system-dependent, like every other thing. Good idea, maybe I’ll wait to hear what Dchang and others have to say.
The Master is more dynamic and shows more details than the Purple. Maybe it’s due to the increase in details. The Purple seems a bit warmer to me.