Although not audiophile approved I’ll bet one of these in the back panel instead of the on-off rocker and fuse might just be the el-cheapo ticket.
Say what?
It’s a $30+ in line circuit breaker and on-off switch combined. Standard industrial fare. No fuse needed. Automatic reset with an off-on cycle.
Easy Peasy.
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I’ll write this again:
FWIW, the SDFB convinced me that fuses could make a difference.
So much so that I have decided to start a bumper sticker company.
My first release will be a variety of eye-catching stickers proclaiming:
“There is no fuse like no fuse”.
Taking suggestions for design ideas now. Phone lines are open and operators are standing by.
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Just wondering, would my e-car run better if I had this clean power feeding in to it?
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That amuses me. Before I got back into room audio systems I was deeply involved in portable audio. In the early days the device to get was an Apple iPod that had a miniature hard drive in it. You charged it with a USB cable of some sort. There were those who believed it you bought semi expensive power supplies to send their clean 5 volts to charge the internal battery it made a noticeable difference in the sound you would hear from the device. People were dead certain they heard the difference. I was not one of them.
(But there is still time for me to wake up and realize the truth!)
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I pipe pure oxygen into my living room, it makes for great sound.
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Haha, reminds me of Bruce Lee: “The art of fighting without fighting”.
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Yes.
My McIntosh Mc1.25KW monoblocks use ush button circuit breakers Also use a power sentry circuit. My MC1000s did. Shorted a peaker terminal once. Works like a dream.
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I wonder if the digital fuse box would make a difference to the Mc’s. It may be the same tech so no difference would exist.
I think I got enough overkill in vibration isolation of power cords and upstream P20 ad its upgraded fuse. Interesting the amp breaker blew before P-20 sensed overcurrent but did too. Now it is already doubled up. I can’t see that device adding any goodness without a sluggo.
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One thing I noticed with the brand new SDFB is that the sound was louder! I needed to turn down the volume by three notches. It needs a lot of time to smooth out the edges it seems. I couldn’t listen for too long at this early break-in stage.
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Does it say Furutech on the plugs? Then those would be FI-50 plugs… It looked like that on the website too. The only thing that bothered me was the price. The plugs alone would exceed the price unless they are so cheeky and use Aliexpress versions.
That pigtail is from Walter at Underwood HiFi’s Core Power cable lineup.
They look alike but they are not Furutech. Dawkinsj is right on that.
It wasn’t clear from your photo whether or what was written on the plugs. I tried something similar once, the originals had a bigger stage and a better flow. There still remains potential and it can only get better than what you already hear. You probably have to try another cable. 
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They are likely Viborg or some similar Chinese supplier. Parts Connexion sells a similar looking product under their Connex brand. There is also a similar looking connector on the BAV PC’s.
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You need to try with just the Sluggo in the p15 with just the power cord. Curious if it is best. The rotection in 15 will save everything else.
Without the box the P15 is unprotected so I am not sure I’ll do that as a permanent solution. I’ll let the box and PC to burn in for a week so I can judge the whole package vs. a fuse.
If it is better then I can live with it happily. Right now it is attached to the Zenwave PSR-11 silver ribbon cord.
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